Sure, I'll bite!
- Thread starter LitterBug
- Start date
Looking forward to seeing how this goes. I really have to give one of these a go. The only thing stopping me so far is the notion that I'll probably be old(er) and grey(er) before I finish printing the parts. Do you know how long this particular model takes to print?
Cheers
Dave.
Cheers
Dave.
Each wing half has taken me 16 hours. Fuselage, about 10. Another 8 or so for the tail and all the control surfaces. And then there was all the experimenting done before getting everything dialed in. This is not the best printer, and it is rather time consuming, but it is getting my foot in the door for 3D printing. Didn't want to just print trinkets, but rather stuff with practical use. After failing miserably trying to use the stock printing software that came with the printer, I switched to Simplify 3D. Well worth the price in my book.
Cheers!
LitterBug
Cheers!
LitterBug
Also working on a singlecopter found on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1555053
Cheers!
LitterBug
Cheers!
LitterBug
This plane is on my project list too. I've also been looking at their BF109 which looks to be a good flyer that doesn't require me to buy all new batteries either. Are you going to do the FPV neck on this one? I think that's the coolest design feature on it. 
With my new Prusa I've been able to do some practical printing (compared to my old Kickstarter Printrbot) - Mini Arrow fuse and plane hooks for the wall. Glad to hear another confirmation that the software upgrade is worth the expense.
With my new Prusa I've been able to do some practical printing (compared to my old Kickstarter Printrbot) - Mini Arrow fuse and plane hooks for the wall. Glad to hear another confirmation that the software upgrade is worth the expense.
I think the gooseneck FPV would be an easy to bust off extension on the easymax. Thinking of doing some other simple FPV mod instead. I have several other wings that do FPV, so working on something that can easily move between them without much effort. Possibly with head tracking- pan/tilt. Focused mostly on multirotors last year.... Hoping to get more wing in this year or at least a good mix. Resisting the urge to buy the PT17 and Edge540 before getting all my other projects done. Going to need a hanger soon for all the stuff in process....
Cheers!
LitterBug
Cheers!
LitterBug
Oh yeah - as some else said on the forums here, "My wife lets me have all the planes I can hide."
Oh yeah - as some else said on the forums here, "My wife lets me have all the planes I can hide."
I am in really really deep right now. She wants the dining room table back that I have been using as my build station for the last year. LOL Thought for sure I was dead when the big box from RMRC came yesterday and she asked what it was... I mumbled "oh, just another plane".
Cheers!
LitterBug
EDIT: Little did she know, the 3D printer I asked her for @ Christmas would just ADD more to the mix.....
but at least I didn't put the printer on the table too.
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This plane is on my project list too. I've also been looking at their BF109 which looks to be a good flyer that doesn't require me to buy all new batteries either. Are you going to do the FPV neck on this one? I think that's the coolest design feature on it.
With my new Prusa I've been able to do some practical printing (compared to my old Kickstarter Printrbot) - Mini Arrow fuse and plane hooks for the wall. Glad to hear another confirmation that the software upgrade is worth the expense.
What RC plane hooks are you printing? I'd be very interested in printing some of those too.
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
LB. I see you are trying the single copter. Maybe for one of your many projects you could get with VAALLEON and do one of his monphans. I am sure you have seen his on going project here in the forums. Maybe test print the frame and ducts to test the viability of that vs the carbon fiber for him.
Ok so I bit too and bought the P47 model files. I'm currently messing about printing a wingtip so that I adjust the settings to get an acceptable print quality. I got a Wanhao Duplicator i3 (same as the one in the FT episode), but it does seem that getting it right will require quite a bit of tweaking.
the walls are ok on this, but I think the layer adhesion is the bit that I need to work on. Very interested in how others get on with this.
Cheers
Dave.
the walls are ok on this, but I think the layer adhesion is the bit that I need to work on. Very interested in how others get on with this.
Cheers
Dave.
PB,
I asked VAALLEON about his stuff a while back and he said it is all in his head. I have a 64mm EDF for my FT Viggen that never got finished. Could use that and play around with some ideas, or just 3D print the thrust tube for the Viggen. Probably ought to finish the Viggen.... then scavenge the EDF after crashing a few times.
Cheers!
LB
It might say it's a guitar wall hook - and it works pretty good for ukulele's too - but it's really for holding planes up by the tail.
I've got about 6 of them up on the wall - mostly holding the pretty balsa stuff, but it would work great for UMX and most mini sized DTFB planes.
Could also be that you're printing with too thick a layer thickness. Try printing at 0.1mm so the layers don't have to deviate so much to get the sharp curve.
Perhaps. But it makes it look like some freaky alien design, and looking cool makes it worth doing the repairs, right?.
It might say it's a guitar wall hook - and it works pretty good for ukulele's too - but it's really for holding planes up by the tail.
I've got about 6 of them up on the wall - mostly holding the pretty balsa stuff, but it would work great for UMX and most mini sized DTFB planes.
View attachment 81914
Nice Drake! Keegan made one out of foam board.
The wall hanger is nice, but I think I'm going to design my own two piece version so that you can adjust the spacing for different size planes. Thanks for the idea.
Yep I think you're right. I tried at 0.15mm and got a better result, still not perfect but just about acceptable. I think`the first thing I've learned about this thin wall printing is there is probably no one setting that works for all parts. Whereas parts with sharp curves like this may require a lower layer height, you might get away with 0.2 on less complex shapes. I guess its a case of looking at each part and deciding the best settings on a case by case basis.
Very cool - please share when you get it printing right! Storage is always such a challenge
Thanks
Keno
Well-known member
What you do not want to do is leave it in a vehicle on a hot day. It is a real shape changer. Just pick up some of the red and silver going to start print shortly. Not have to much trouble using simplify and tuning thing in with the Speed override settings usally I like to with low numbers on top and around 60 on bottom. I have looked and used a lot of factory setting and they go all over the place but they all seem to work out fine. The only thing I find in them is the temp setting are to low and do not result in good layer bonding.
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