Switchback Sport

[jaredstrees]

Progress! Wing is done, sanded and ready for covering. The instructions say to cover it now, but I'm going to wait to tackle the covering until I can do it all at the same time. Plus, I don't have a covering iron yet. Going to have to order one today.

Dihedral has been removed, tonight I'm going to cut a small piece of balsa to brace the area where I cut the spar. Forgot to do that last night. The mod was simple enough to do, and I think she'll look and fly a little better.

Going to start the fuse this week. She'll be looking like a plane in no time!

 

[jaredstrees]

So does anyone have a recommendation for a decent cover iron that won't break the bank? I'm looking at one on amazon from hanger 9 (horizon). only so so reviews though.

 

[rockyboy]

I've been using the Top Flite one for a couple years and it's working well

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZ17&P=3

 

[Joker 53150]

I find great deals at swap meets.

 

[roversgonemad]

I picked up a used iron for a couple bucks on eBay. I used a themocouple on my DMM and figured out temp settings. For about $7 total price, it’s been great. I think it’s a Royal. The top-flite iron socks fit it too. Incidentally, toddler socks work great on covering irons, and they’re cheaper than the top-flite iron sock.

 

[Joker 53150]

Just another thought on covering tools - buy a spare if you find a good deal. This is an item that will NOT fail unless you're using it! So far I've burned out one heat gun and I think one of my irons is starting to die as it won't hold consistent temperatures any more. Since I had a spare for both it didn't slow me down much. I'm also a HUGE fan of a trim iron with at least a high/low switch. Using a trim iron has really helped me tack covering down in tight areas compared to using a standard iron.

You'll also see various recommendations from people to shrink covering with the iron instead of the heat gun and vice-versa. It's personal preference and I find a use for both methods depending on the size of the project and type of covering. When swap-meet season comes around again this Fall I'm going to grab a couple more heat guns and irons. So many people are getting away from balsa and clearing out their supplies - $2-5 each is common and a steal!

 

[jaredstrees]

Not many swap meets down here. I wish there were. I already have a heat gun, so I'll look on craigslist for an iron, but I don't often see much RC stuff on there. Thanks guys!

 

[Joker 53150]

I'll bet if you post on some of the FaceBook forums for balsa builders that you're a new builder looking for gear you'll find somebody willing to sell you something cheap. Balsa builders are always looking to get more people addicted!

 

[jaredstrees]

Eww facebook. I haven't used that account since they admitted to their dirty deeds. I may have to try anyway. It'd be nice to find other builders and pilots in the area. So far been pretty unsuccessful. There is a club in the area, but they fly almost a hour away from me. Sadly, I just don't have the time for a two hour round trip to fly.

 

[nhk750]

I'm a little late on replying to this thread, but get the Hanger 9 iron. It has a temp adjustable knob and is hands down the best iron available for the money. without the temp adjustable knob you are just guessing at temps and that will make covering that much harder. I love my Hanger 9 and it works perfectly and if you look at my posts, my covering comes out almost perfect. I also use a laser temp gun to check temps and it is nearly perfect.

Let my clarify, get this iron. Hanger 9 pro

 

[nhk750]

I did a lot of reading on how to cover airplanes and found some good methods. when finishing the Hog Bipe I refined my covering process a bit. I tacked down the covering first around the perimeter stretching as I go, then I take the heat gun and shrink it up which takes out any wrinkles, then I do a final shrink with the iron (I always have a sock on it) at the shrink recommended heat setting for the material used. I bought a book called "There are no secrets" and this book has some amazing tips on how to cover that really helped me.

I was always afraid of the heat gun, but once I learned how it works, I love it! No more creases and wrinkles.

Here is a page out of it with how to tack down the covering for a wing....

 

[jaredstrees]

Awesome! Thank you! I do believe I am more worried about covering this plane than actually building it!

 

[nhk750]

The first couple covering jobs are a little stressful, then you will "get it" and realize how fun and easy it is. Inside curves are the hardest still though...Don't be afraid to just remove the covering and start over with a new piece if you mess up, done that a few times...
Heres a link to the book, I love this book! There Are No Secrets. It's outdated and black and white typed out, but the techniques are timeless.

 

[jaredstrees]

I'm sure I'll be removing some covering while in this learning process! Fortunately this isn't to complex of an airplane. And got to start somewhere! I'll do a few practice runs on some scrap before I tackle the SB.

Some progress made last night. Fuselage is framed up and awaiting the sheeting. That should go on tonight. After a little sanding I'll move on to the next step. Starting to have less pieces of the puzzle to play with! And she is starting to look like a plane.

 

[jaredstrees]

Getting closer! Fuse was finished last night and sanded. I also added the bracing to the horizontal and vertical stabilizers. Really not much left to do before covering goes on. Iron is in route, may be able to start that procedure this coming weekend. All electronics have been accounted for and are waiting on install. I'll finish the landing gear this week.

So there it is. Some small things to finish before covering, but at this point I'm pretty much ready to cover it and start final assembly.

 

[jaredstrees]

I will also need to address the canopy. The directions call to hinge it with tyvek. I am thinking about making it completely removable. I've got plenty of tiny magnets. I figure I will add some balsa block on the inside of the fuse to set said magnets into and do the same for the canopy. I plan on painting the inside of the canopy so any ugliness won't be seen. If anyone has a better idea I'd love to hear it!

 

[Joker 53150]

A removable canopy is the way to go. I did mine with a short section of a popsicle stick, a magnet, and a thumbtack. The popsicle stick is glued to the bottom front of the canopy and it slides up under the Balsa structure to keep the front of the canopy down. The rear of the canopy is held down with the magnet and tack. The magnet is on the canopy and the tack is glued down inside the canopy opening. While the tack glue is still wet (I used epoxy) the canopy is installed so the tack pushes down into the balsa. A little tab is added to make the canopy easier to to remove.

Probably confusing, but I’ll try and get some pictures tonight to better explain it.

 

[jaredstrees]

That sounds pretty close to how I made the hatch for my mini corsair. I think I've got a good idea of how you did it. Much simpler than my plan. Sometimes I overlook the easier routes and try the fancy stuff. Need to remember the "keep it simple stupid" model more often!

 

[nhk750]

Looks great! Magnets, I love magnets...

 

[Joker 53150]

Here is how I did my Switchback. The covering needs a little shrinking, but it's otherwise ready to go.

With the canopy on the only tell-tale sign is the white "tab" I made from covering hanging out on the back edge. This makes the canopy MUCH easier to remove.

This picture should explain most of how it's all done. The only "trick" is that the tack has to be pushed into the wood and epoxy by installing the canopy. This makes the tack go in just far enough into the wood so you still get contact from the magnet. You can see the paint has been worn off the tack on mine from the magnet.