TEKSUMO / Pop Wing FPV 3.0 Finally Got it Perfect! 2.4ghz vid

marzvt

Junior Member
First off I'm glad to be back! Just put an addition on my house which killed all extra curricular activities for a good 8 months!

To explain my goals for 3.0 I need to explain the successes and failures or 2.0 here is a pick of the retired 2.0
teksumo-2-3.jpg
My goal with 2.0 was to build a fast wing with high wing loading and stability, complete signal isolation, and triple redundancy to deal with heavy turbulence, and high winds often associated with the Mountains here in Stowe, Vermont. The triple redundancy ie: Autopilot return to launch, plane finder, and base station location read out was so my wife wouldn't kill me for loosing a second decked out Teksumo.

My Successes:
1.It was fast- The final 4S setup would fly level in the 90s and have 25min of longevity.
2.The Signals Were completely Isolated- I reposed my wire diagram to show the old version because that was a huge success. Video was crisp and clean everything was exceptionally isolated.
3. Triple Redundancy was a complete success. I never even came close to loosing my plane.
4. High wing loading achieved. This was totally achieved, it really didn't matter what I flew in. 2.0 cut through it like a knife. This was also a Failure. I will tell you why below.

The Failures:
1.Too Much weight Too little wing! I met my speed and longevity goals but on the stock frame this meant having a plane that weighed so much that it was hard to launch, all crashed happened at launch. That was originally why I switched to a Dual 1800 4S setup because I needed more power so I could get control authority before it hit the ground. The weight also led to a second failure of needing too much space to launch. With all that power, and weight with so little wing it was like a jet, requiring a ton of space to gain full maneuverability. Not ideal for getting above the trees in a ski resort parking lot. This also made it fall out of the sky when you cut the throttle and always come in really hot, fine for an edf on a runway, not fine for a mountain flyer that needs to turf it anywhere.
2. CG... The disadvantage of moving all the components to the tips of the wings on a swept wing design, is that it actually puts them behind the CG line, which combined with the 36/30 motor and aluminum mount, made it tail heavy even with 2 2200 3s on the nose. I wound up adding nose weight to the tip to make it flyable when the stability was off.
3. High wing loading coming from the wings themselves. By putting the batteries and all the components on the wings I made very heavy wings. The first bad thing this did is make the little plane handle like a 737. The second bad thing that it did, is play havoc with the stability at speed by not being able to move fast enough. This made for nasty hobbles at speed which were freaky because when it would wobble even after cutting the throttle they would keep going until the plane would slow down. Also the wings were so heavy that the control rods would flex at high speed making me loose control authority.
4. How 2.0 was built it was all high speed open space cruising all the time. With the Batteries on the wings any my cg requirement I had little options.
5. Not enough space, not enough wing. I never felt like a had enough space to mount the things that were important, like video.
6. Redundancy over kill. The stability system took important key space right in the center of the CG. I spent more time fiddling with it and it doesn't make sense when you are flying with vastly rising and falling terrain. If I am starting up high and flying down a mountain and the return to home kicks in. It will plow into the terrain before it gets to me. I like to scud run a lot so I was always focused on gaining enough altitude to not hit anything before I would even test it.
7. FLEX!!! I used all the stock supports which is perfect if you are running stock light, but with the weight I was running the wing would flex, constantly changing the geometry making it list from one side to another.

So all this led to 3.0 Its late so I will just post the pics and the specs for now.
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Specs:
-Pop Wing- Hobbyking was out of Teksumos and the Pop Wind has the added advantage of having a white bottom and a green top which makes it SOO much better for orientation when you are flying line of sight.
-ImmersionRC 2.4 500mw TX
-ImmersionRC Easy OSD
-RMRC-700XV Camera
-NTM Prop Drive 35-30 1400KV
-72hz Corona RP8D1
-Eagle Micro Aeroplane Flight Controller A3 Stability Mounted backwards.
-ExceedRC 30amp Speed controller (Probably going back to my TURNIGY K-Force 40A Brushless ESC) 3S I max at 25amps 4S I max at 34amps.
-8X8 prop
-Blue beam CP for now, in many ways I like linear better and in some ways its more consistant.
-Battery- anything from 1 1550 3s all the way up to 2 2200 4s.

Basic stats
1 2200 3S 65mph level, 92+ dive, 12 min longevity, better then 1 to 1 thrust, stall- totally slow.
2 2200 25min flight time.
Really maneuverable and stable with everything. Ill get into the details in a bit!
 

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marzvt

Junior Member
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I finished up the build Seperated the power and added another ferit ring to condition the power.
Also upgraded to the 40amp speed control. The plane flys best with a 2200 4s or possibly a a little heavier. The Standard 4s batteries were maxing out at 28amps draw but the Nano Techs draw 35amps for that speed control gives me alittle buffer.
 

Nonamerc

Arman
View attachment 5322 View attachment 5323
I finished up the build Seperated the power and added another ferit ring to condition the power.
Also upgraded to the 40amp speed control. The plane flys best with a 2200 4s or possibly a a little heavier. The Standard 4s batteries were maxing out at 28amps draw but the Nano Techs draw 35amps for that speed control gives me alittle buffer.

Cut away the heat shrink which covers the sink
 

marzvt

Junior Member
I could but really there isn't a need, It really never gets more than warm. If anything I need ot sink the wires in and put a layer of foam or plastic to protect them .
 

Nonamerc

Arman
I think that if you upgrade your 72 mhz to 433 mhz you will have a long range system if you have a big battery in your wing.
 

marzvt

Junior Member
I actually have a Rmilec UHF system sitting on my work bench. I am waiting till I get a second reciever to switch to it. so I can fly bot my ffv planes without constantly having to reconfigure my radio. I have had the little 72hrz out past 7500feet with out any issues but that is defenately the week link at this point. Also with 2 2200s I have plenty of longevity.
 
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