The big bang of Mustangs

buzzbomb

I know nothing!
Ok so you probably understood that I am in. I'll be building the mini version using an A pack motor, the one that was going to go on my Easy Edge and i'll be painting like so.
https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?media/img-0920-min-jpg.532/
https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?media/img-0920-min-jpg.533/

I posted the links because the forum didn't let me upload pictures from the forum server :?.
If you right-click on the image you can copy/paste from within the forum. :)
 

Ketchup

4s mini mustang
You might want to try the ft elements firewall. It works with the f pack and is really handy for non-swappables.
I would use it, but the triangular shape would make it hard to find a place to put it on. I could put it on one of the sides, but then it would cause thrust angle issues. After considering everything, I’m probably just going to use a glued in power pod. Maybe shortened.
 

Ketchup

4s mini mustang
It might be true for some motors, but I doubt there is a set in stone number.
Ok, I was just thinking about using a bigger prop than before and using a bigger esc with it. Now I’m thinking about just using the old props and switching props and esc later. After all, the old mustang had more than enough power on a 4s and a 5x4x3 prop.
 

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
Ok, I was just thinking about using a bigger prop than before and using a bigger esc with it. Now I’m thinking about just using the old props and switching props and esc later. After all, the old mustang had more than enough power on a 4s and a 5x4x3 prop.
If you're looking for speed a two blade will be faster than a 3 blade.
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
If you're looking for speed a two blade will be faster than a 3 blade.
What do you think of these props I got? I’ll be running my mini mustang off of 4s with a 40 amp esc and an f pack motor. I think it’ll be fast! 😁
EF5CD86D-300D-40C3-B258-7566EC6D993E.jpeg
 

Ketchup

4s mini mustang
If you're looking for speed a two blade will be faster than a 3 blade.
Ok then. I was just thinking about a 6x4.5 but it would pull around 40-45 amps max, and I only have a 30 amp esc. I was going to use an ft 35 amp one, but that still might not be enough. I don’t know how to solder yet, so I can’t really use a 40 amp until I do that. Maybe I will learn to solder before I get the kit?
 

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
Ok then. I was just thinking about a 6x4.5 but it would pull around 40-45 amps max, and I only have a 30 amp esc. I was going to use an ft 35 amp one, but that still might not be enough. I don’t know how to solder yet, so I can’t really use a 40 amp until I do that. Maybe I will learn to solder before I get the kit?
A 6.45 will put a lot of strain on you motor, you'll be better off running something like the 4.75 in. prop hangar has.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
Also, if I go down in propeller diameter, but increase pitch, would I get more speed, and would I pull the same amps?
What size of motor are you using as far as Kv? If it is the F pack 2300Kv then a 2 blade will be your best bet for efficiency. from what I have learned the hard way the pitch will have more effect then the size as far as amps go. Go simple and do a 6x3x2 on a 4s and you will have a plane that is balistic. it will be nuts, especially if you haven't done speed before, it's a good baseline to start from so don't stress it. A good rule of thumb is to get an ESC that will handle the max load at 75% of the rating of what your set up will draw to be safe. The mini mustang is a small plane and is light, be prepared for pitch sensitivity when throttling up
 

mayan

Legendary member
It's 11:32 with a few distractions in the middle I finished titling and cutting the plans. Now 10 mins break to finish a few things the wife asked me too and I'll get back to taping to FB, hopefully might also be able to start cutting.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
Hahaha. Weather here is like Russian roulette, one day you get hit other days we get lucky. Kinda rushing this cause I want to go back to the DGA-6 build which will put all my other builds on hold for a while.
I will say that has been a nice build and FB design, my hat is off and I bow to you for the effort on it. You are a true asset to the hobby and I slow clap to you my friend, you deserve it
 

mayan

Legendary member
I will say that has been a nice build and FB design, my hat is off and I bow to you for the effort on it. You are a true asset to the hobby and I slow clap to you my friend, you deserve it
Thanks! It’s still not prefect though. Sure I’ll get it perfected now after a bit of rest from it :).

So last update for now. I finished taping the plans parts to FB, just a bit under one 70x100 sheet of FB. I separated the FB into smaller pieces to help work on them and scored all the pieces. Left to do so I can start building is cut out the pieces :). I will be painting this one before I build it because it will make it easier to mask off and achieve the end result that I want. I am also really debating if to try and minwax this one considering the wet nature of this time of year (winter). The debate is really just because of weight vs. motor thrust. If I was using an F pack motor for this build I wouldn’t have been debating at all :(.
 

Tonero311

Well-known member
I’m thinking about building a kit, and I want to try using different glues for longevity, strength, and weight savings. I was wondering if anybody knew about some glues that I could use, and if they would work with ft’s brown waterproof foam?

I use brown gorilla glue on the fuselage and main structure pieces. I stack books to fix its position square or weigh it down. Check it a few times over an hour or 2 to make sure nothing is moving and stays in position. Then leave it overnight to fully cure. I masking tape off any points were seepage from glue foam will be awkward to deal with. Basically just redirecting its flow to somewhere non visual.
I use PVA to glue together flat plates or on edges of poster board formers.
I try to avoid hot glue like the plague. Mainly only use it to tack pieces together before I 5 min epoxy the entire joint. Though I am going to be getting 15 min and 30 min epoxy as I like the extra time to properly thin out the epoxy bead line.
As I progress through a model I have a tendency to epoxy every joint I can. I like using these glues as it gives you time to make adjustments if needed before it's too late, on the flip side it slows the build to a snail's pace, but results are worth it in my opinion.