The Flying Wing in FB

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Recently I was contacted with a request for The Flying Wing plans. I have built a number of FB versions and there are a few still flying/

The plans which I had previously downloaded were no longer listed where i had found them so I will start a build thread for my smaller version or rendition of the original design. It is similar in layout to the FT Gremlin but there are sufficient differences to make them perform markedly different from each other.

Here is a pic of one of the FB versions I have built
. SUNP0011.JPG

Now this is not a beginners aircraft as it can fly very fast and is highly maneuverable especially in pitch. It is so slippery in the air that it is the fastest diving model I have ever flown and that includes those loss of control moments.

Anyway here is a ZIP file with the original article and magazine plan included. If you want a larger plan than I recommend that you con
tact the plans service and place your order!
 

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  • The Flying Wing.jpg
    The Flying Wing.jpg
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Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
First;y I will list the electronics I used in my smaller version though of course the plane will fly faster and somewhat more aggressively if you up engine the design.

ELECTRICS
Motor: 2205c 1400 kV
ESC: 12A 3S capable 2A BEC recommended!
Servos: Qty 2, 9 gram
Battery: 1300 3S 20C
Propeller: 2 blade 6x4.5

Physical measurements:
Length: Approx 400mm
Wingspan: 724mm + wing tips if fitted. (wing span can be subject to the size of the FB sheet you use).
Wing cord: 215mm nominal, (symmetrical??).
Weight: Nominal 300 grams, (without battery when made from local HEAVY FB)
C.G.: 42 mm from wing LE.

For this one it will be build first and plans second.

More later!
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Final heads up before the process commences.

The wing is a single piece of FB with a single FB strip as a wing spar so accuracy of assembly is required. Though the wing could be made from 2 pieces and the spar if making from offcuts or part sheets.

The fuselage is normally from 2 separate pieces though again the number of parts can be 4 if trying to make from offcuts or scraps. To give a little more room for the battery and to simplify the build the fuselage nose will not taper inwards at the sides in this build though you are free to build it as you wish!

The wing profile can be varied in thickness with only a slight change in performance. The thinner the profile the faster it flies and lands.

The fuselage is actually glued to the wing using a liquid glue so for this build we will do a 4 piece fuselage build to aid those who prefer to use only hotmelt glue on their FB creations.

For the reason of possible variable thickness you may get from your build, the wing cutouts will be marked on the fuselage as a LE and TE point and the wing itself used as the template for the actual cutout hole on each side of the fuselage.

For this particular build the inboard fins which were located in a position similar to the FT Gremlin will be replaced with winglets. This configuration has flown successfully and with no noticeable change in performance but a big change in hanger rash susceptibility.

Additional Information

The only item forward of the wing LE is the battery, (additional balance weight may be required depending on FB and build weight). I intend to use a couple of craft magnets to secure the battery compartment hatch.

The Rx is recommended as being mounted on the top of the wing, (inside the fuselage), just behind the wing LE.

The ESC is located under the wing, (again inside the fuselage). You will be required to extend the battery leads to the ESC so that the battery connection is in the battery compartment. You may require to add ventilation holes for higher power setups.

Servo locations are flexible though mounting them just behind the Spar helps in balancing easily.

There is no undercarriage. A bungee launcher hook can be printed on a 3D printer and a STL file will be supplied. The motor mounting can be onto a piece of Plywood of suitable shape though I will be using a 3D printed mount and supplying the STL for those who wish to print.

Weaknesses

There is a known structural weakness in the FB design which is where the wing LE meets the fuselage. During a nose in landing or a high speed violent bounce/touch and go the nose of the plane can be ripped off of the fuselage. Additional reinforcing pieces of FB can be added but then it does add a little weight and is not going to save much if you have a bad crash.

Handling peculiarities

BEWARE of what I call the vertical ground loops. This is where the landing is fast and you bounce the plane on the ground whilst you apply up elevator to slow the descent. The result can be a nose first impact which bounces the nose into the air, (a massive increase in AoA) and the elevon input causes the plane to rotate the nose of the plane rearwards and the second landing is upside down.

Now the work starts!

Later!
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Sorry for the delay. First my 3D printer died and now my camera!

So I will post the wing plans and the procedure for the wing. Will continue when I find a way to take a reasonable picture.

Wing Build
1. Chamfer the TE on the wing panel, (as indicated on the plan).
2. Cut and bevel the Elevon hinge line
3 Mark the spar position lines on the wing panel inside area. Glue the wing spar onto one of the locations indicated on the plan, (on the inside of the wing panel)
4. Cut and bevel the LE areas as per the plan
5. Draw the wing LE and TE together so that the upper side TE meets up with the Elevon hinge line ensuring that the spar is in contact with the inside of the wing panel in the marked position, adjust the LE bevel if required to ensure that the spar makes contact in the area as marked on the plan.
 

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  • TFW NEW.pdf
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Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Fuselage, Winglets, Optional inboard vertical fins and motor mount to come shortly!

I need to redraw the fuselage to allow for easier assembly as others do not use the tools I have made to speed assembly.

Also wish to do an stl for the printed motor mount.

have fun!
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Here is the fuselage plan minus the motor mount.

For a simple ply motor mount just hold a piece of ply in position and draw around it using the fuselage as a guide.
Just a heads up! from the bottom of the wing to the bottom of the fuselage is NOT covered with the ply as this is open to allow the fitting of the ESC, motor wires, and for ventilation.

Printed motor mount and the procedure which is rather obvious anyway will be supplied when I get a replacement camera!

Have fun!

Fuselage Plans
 

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  • TFW NEW Fuselage.pdf
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Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
This little project has been PARKED for a while so I will do the build over the next few days/weeks.

Fuselage parts cut out
SUNP0020.JPG

Wing cut out and bevels done
SUNP0019.JPG

For this build I have reduced the spar height to 12mm so I will have a faster bird.

After the bevels were cut I folded the wing over and pressed it flat to check the TE of the bottom lines up perfectly with the hinge line. Then I placed a large flat and weighty object on the wing for a day or so to really compress the LE and give the wing a better and more uniform wing contour, (without folds I hope).

Fitting of spar will be done when the wing is removes from under the weights. (I use a far denser foam than the DTFB so I use the press ot reduce the foam resistance to crush at the LE.

<ore later!

Have fun!
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Its all Sweet. I have been looking over my old threads and intend to finish all builds started so I can move onto bigger and better designs.

In addition I have found someone who will take any builds I do not want after their maiden! So I will not be cluttering up my hangar, (it is already too full).

Have fun!
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
Just an update!

Wing spar fitted
Spar fitted.JPG

Wing folded and glued
Folded and glued.JPG

Wing held on Centre line
Wing on CL.JPG

Wing cutout marked (on both fuselage sides) Ready to cut out to mount wing through the fuselage sides.
Outlined.JPG

More later!

Have fun!
 

Paracodespoder

Elite member
I’ve been working on my @MiniacRC p-40 tonight, and I’ve got so many others to build this one may be awhile. I’ve got the p-40 cutout, min-ez plans ready, storch plans ready and a SpiTTT that I need to print out, but I will build this!
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
I’ve been working on my @MiniacRC p-40 tonight, and I’ve got so many others to build this one may be awhile. I’ve got the p-40 cutout, min-ez plans ready, storch plans ready and a SpiTTT that I need to print out, but I will build this!
Just be warned! it has a symmetrical airfoil, a tiny fuselage, and doesn't weigh a lot!

If you stick a big motor on it it will be incredibly quick, (Especially in a power on dive).

This build is already allocated to someone who loves how the original flies and handles.

It could be built in a day if you are accurate in your cutting but this one is being built in spare time!

have fun!
 

Keno

Well-known member
The 1806 and 2205 are my favorite 2300 to 2500Kv, but nothing wrong with the 2306 you speak of. Hang on this could exceed your expectations and you may be taking a garbage bag out to retrieve the pieces. Hey, like your post and happy flying
 

Paracodespoder

Elite member
I’m just addicted to speed:ROFLMAO:, I’ll not be able to do one with that motor for a while cause I don’t have one, I’m just dreaming, haha. I’ll be doing this one with a 2300kv 2205 for real though.