The Great 2020 Quarantine Build-Off?

Wildthing

Legendary member
That’s exactly what happened. The clerk pparently qdidn’t know how to operate the printer & asked me what amount I wanted the small 8.5X11 upsized. I did the math & it came out a 16th short on the 1 inch scale when printed. My math was correct for size I requested but the clerk blamed the difference on the printer. They had a sign on counter saying they wouldn’t do resizing except the way the clerk asked & would not reproduce for off scale copies free. Haha. So, they’ve had the same problem before. I need to use a different print shop. I can do the Simple Stick 100% & transport it easily But I’d prefer a 25% reduction on the the fuselage for aerodynamic consideration & longer wings for more sailplane style flight characteristics.

I have no problem with my girls at Staples whatever size I request. It wasn't the printers fault. I always print the full plans not the tiled ones and scaling up or down tiled plans I think you are asking for problems. Their printer is 36" wide so as long as one dimension of the plan is at that or under let it rip, length doesn't matter because it is one huge roll of paper. Then you can cut the plans apart if needed to fit the fb.
 

perhapsleiana

Elite member
My guess is the bearing failed first, which would be a warranty issue
Oh, I'm sure the bearing failed first. In fact the rest of the motor was still working well enough for a safe landing on a plane with a glide ratio of about 1.5:1, and that means active power, and the coils appeared to be working fine, save for being almost black.
For sure and I do that all the time :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: but with a bearing going out all those temps just increased 10 fold.
Yeah, I think that's why it was so hot when I landed. Bearing went out and magnets started scraping on the stator core.
 

Vimana89

Legendary member

Here's a short test flight of the Hawk Moth after making adjustments. Flies well, could maybe put the CG just a tiny bit more forward without feeling nose heavy. These slow fly props tame it quite a bit and are great for economical cruising, but this isn't really an ideal dedicated slow flyer design with the highly swept wing and KF style air foil. This plane seems capable of really high speeds if set up right(it basically handles like a swept wing cold war fighter).
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator

Here's a short test flight of the Hawk Moth after making adjustments. Flies well, could maybe put the CG just a tiny bit more forward without feeling nose heavy. These slow fly props tame it quite a bit and are great for economical cruising, but this isn't really an ideal dedicated slow flyer design with the highly swept wing and KF style air foil. This plane seems capable of really high speeds if set up right(it basically handles like a swept wing cold war fighter).
Where's the build log page... I'd like to learn more.. looked chill to fly.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member

Here's a short test flight of the Hawk Moth after making adjustments. Flies well, could maybe put the CG just a tiny bit more forward without feeling nose heavy. These slow fly props tame it quite a bit and are great for economical cruising, but this isn't really an ideal dedicated slow flyer design with the highly swept wing and KF style air foil. This plane seems capable of really high speeds if set up right(it basically handles like a swept wing cold war fighter).
Nice design, it does look so stable and maneuverable. I would say you are right on the more nose weight thing, it would fly faster and be more fun for sure. Do you have any reflex in it?
 

Figure9

Elite member
I have no problem with my girls at Staples whatever size I request. It wasn't the printers fault. I always print the full plans not the tiled ones and scaling up or down tiled plans I think you are asking for problems. Their printer is 36" wide so as long as one dimension of the plan is at that or under let it rip, length doesn't matter because it is one huge roll of paper. Then you can cut the plans apart if needed to fit the fb.

It’s true that sticking to the plans provides for less rule of thumb engineering, doesn’t set me up for built in mistakes, etc. I’ve had good luck doing mods on the Bloody Baron & Simple Soarer but I should do a 100% with the Simple Stick first for the experience. :unsure::coffee:(y) Wouldn’t hurt. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

Figure9

Elite member
Ugly?!?! Well, yeah !!

But if you see RED, just roll it 180 degrees! That’s the beauty of it.
Assuming, of course, that it will fly at all.
I’ll install the ‘B’ motor & set up the electronics as soon as the paint dries.

:mad: = The look on your face when you realize you painted the hatch RED but you forgot to MinWax it before wielding the spray can like a seasoned tagger.
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Despite applying MinWax to the wing I got some delamination on the top surface along the aileron hinges even, though I ironed & minwaxed the beveled edge. No problem on this model as it isn’t expected to live very long due to social distancing preventing a buddy box flight.
 

Vimana89

Legendary member
Nice design, it does look so stable and maneuverable. I would say you are right on the more nose weight thing, it would fly faster and be more fun for sure. Do you have any reflex in it?
I don't have any expo or dual rates or any sort of settings on it, but a tiny bit of up elevator in the sub trim. I'm still playing with CG, I went a bit too far back where it was nose heavy at first so somewhere in between will work. I took the dark colors off the right wing and made it look cleaner, and just added white on the bottom of the fuselage because that's the only thing that mattered with orientation.
 

Vimana89

Legendary member
Cleaned up the color scheme and added white on the bottom which is the main orientation factor I need for this plane. I extended the Velcro area to give me wiggle room to get the CG exactly where I want it with battery placement. Everything should be good to go for the next flight👍
 

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perhapsleiana

Elite member
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I got that bearing race out and put a new bearing in, re-oiled both bearings, and painted the motor, and named it Lazarus, because it's a zombie motor now. Gonna look more into cooling for this, mainly for the outer magnets. They're N52 and they start to lose magnetism at about 60C.

I wonder if there's a motor out there with high-temp magnet wire insulation and ferrite magnets, that would be designed to reach, say, 125C and thus be able to use radiative cooling methods. You may be able to reach 400W/oz power density that way. Mounting would have to be done special ways though, using standoffs or something.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
Made up the tail feathers and got them mocked up on the plane...
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Next is to skin the tail, but first i need to plan out the pushrod to the elevator. I would like to skin the tail all in one piece, its definitely gonna make for an interesting day tomorrow, probably gonna be the most finicky section for fit.