The Great 2020 Quarantine Build-Off?

OliverW

Legendary member
A 2206 running a 12A ESC? I'd say you could go to an 1806 of the same kv and save some weight, since you're only using 12A, and I assume you aren't going above 4S.
Using a printed motor mount made of PLA might be a different story though, but I assume you aren't doing that either.
I'm running it on 3s. Those motors are designed for these foamies. I tried an 1806 on one, and it couldn't hover.
 

daniZZ

Active member
I'm in desperate need of help.
Tried to maiden again the P40. This time it went a little bit better. It was airborne for about 20 seconds but every time I let back the elevator it gone directly to mather earth, nose first. As long as I hold on the elevator it went flite but almost verically up....
I'm using this motor:
#Aliexpress RON 16.07 9%OFF | JMT A2217 950KV 1250KV 1500KV 2300KV Outrunner Brushless Motor 3-4S For RC Airplane Aircraft DIY Drone 6/7/8/9/10/11inch Props
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dStSM2N
1250KV. Dose it have enough power for this airframe?
Again the CG was in the point my finger is in the picture. Is it OK?
Now the airframe is completely compromised. I will buy again some foam board and completely rebuild it.
Please help what should I do to get it airborne....
 

Attachments

  • 304326_1d79a851cafe1c4e4cbc41027d180cc9.jpg
    304326_1d79a851cafe1c4e4cbc41027d180cc9.jpg
    722.3 KB · Views: 0

Hoomi

Master member
That sounds like it might be too nose heavy, or your horizontal stab has a front-up angle, making it basically down elevator by default. If it has enough power to get off the ground initially, it shouldn't be the motor being too weak that's the problem.

Try moving your CG back a little, and see what difference it makes.
 

perhapsleiana

Elite member
I'm running it on 3s. Those motors are designed for these foamies. I tried an 1806 on one, and it couldn't hover.
It must have been lower kV, or it was on a different prop, or it was a terrible motor because of high internal resistance. a 2206 is typically rated around 250W, your battery and ESC can put out an absolute maximum continuous power of about 150W. Resistance in the power wires probably reduces that to something around 130W. 1806 motors are right in that ballpark- and that's assuming constant full throttle. You can definitely use a lighter motor.
 

perhapsleiana

Elite member
In other news, I got my 3D printer working, at least for another 250g of PLA, at which point I'll have to make a DRM chip resetter and buy a different brand of filament that's probably higher quality anyway. But it will still be PLA-only.
IMG_2621.JPG


Pictured here is my 5.1" BDF with some beat up props as placeholders waiting on some Nazgul 5140 props. They will need to be reamed, and may also need to have their hubs shortened with a spade bit. The spider mount weighs a total of 30 grams, and is quite sturdy and rigid, I wish I had a smaller nozzle so I could reasonably do thinner stator vanes, as well as thinner perimeter rings. I am open to requests for different dimension versions of this BDF design too.
 

daniZZ

Active member
That sounds like it might be too nose heavy, or your horizontal stab has a front-up angle, making it basically down elevator by default. If it has enough power to get off the ground initially, it shouldn't be the motor being too weak that's the problem.

Try moving your CG back a little, and see what difference it makes.
The CG is where the guys who built it said it should be, but I can't explain why it behaves like this. Regarding the horizontal stab angle, how can I check it? I did built it conform to the plans avaliable on the site.
I hand launched it because the wheels were not moving in the grass and after half throttle it was raising it's tail and tipping in the nose pivoting on the wheels.
I think the wheels had too much toe in....
 

daniZZ

Active member
@daniZZ - is the horizontal stabiliser mostly flat with the underside of the wing (parallel)?
Can't tell right now because the plane is not straight any more, but looks like.... The wing has dihedral and the stab is straight but if I look down on the fuse keeping it kind of straight, I kind of see the bottom of the stabilizer, not just it's silhouette...
But again maybe I'm just looking for excuses... Can't tell....
The thing is that I want to build a new one and I would like to make it usable....
 

Hoomi

Master member
In other news, I got my 3D printer working, at least for another 250g of PLA, at which point I'll have to make a DRM chip resetter and buy a different brand of filament that's probably higher quality anyway. But it will still be PLA-only.
View attachment 169780

Pictured here is my 5.1" BDF with some beat up props as placeholders waiting on some Nazgul 5140 props. They will need to be reamed, and may also need to have their hubs shortened with a spade bit. The spider mount weighs a total of 30 grams, and is quite sturdy and rigid, I wish I had a smaller nozzle so I could reasonably do thinner stator vanes, as well as thinner perimeter rings. I am open to requests for different dimension versions of this BDF design too.
That Orville looks fantastic!
 

OliverW

Legendary member
It must have been lower kV, or it was on a different prop, or it was a terrible motor because of high internal resistance. a 2206 is typically rated around 250W, your battery and ESC can put out an absolute maximum continuous power of about 150W. Resistance in the power wires probably reduces that to something around 130W. 1806 motors are right in that ballpark- and that's assuming constant full throttle. You can definitely use a lighter motor.
It's a pretty low KV 2206 that is designed to spin a larger prop and put out the perfect power for one of these 3D foamies
 

Hoomi

Master member
That’s Wilbur, but they share the same base model lol
Yeah, I noticed after I posted that, the name of the Dodo in the airport in my wife's game.

She keeps joking about getting me to play it as well, but for us to both play at the same time, we'd need to get a second Switch and a second copy of the game. Right now, it looks like the only Switch units available, are the grey colored Switch Lites. Not sure if the game appeals to me enough to spend the $260 or so on the combo.
 

IdoAllMyOwnStunts

Elite member
I think I have perfected the mini arrow! Here’s the setup.
Brother hobby Avenger V3 2206.5 2000kv
60 amp BL heli ESC
15 gram MG servos
6 cell 1000 mah 100c Ovonic or a 1300mah 3 cell 95C tattu
13.4 ounces on a 6 cell and 150 MPH
10.5 ounces 3 cell and 88 MPH
Motor pulls 1050 watts on a 6 cell and is only warm to the touch after a minute of WOT😎. 3 cell is still awesome power and tons of fun!
59720E36-4E9E-4A37-B6B8-D60DD0BCA8E2.jpeg
C9A3895E-B24E-4AA2-A300-60B81FDC9BD5.jpeg
 

Wildthing

Legendary member
I'm in desperate need of help.
Tried to maiden again the P40. This time it went a little bit better. It was airborne for about 20 seconds but every time I let back the elevator it gone directly to mather earth, nose first. As long as I hold on the elevator it went flite but almost verically up....
I'm using this motor:
#Aliexpress RON 16.07 9%OFF | JMT A2217 950KV 1250KV 1500KV 2300KV Outrunner Brushless Motor 3-4S For RC Airplane Aircraft DIY Drone 6/7/8/9/10/11inch Props
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dStSM2N
1250KV. Dose it have enough power for this airframe?
Again the CG was in the point my finger is in the picture. Is it OK?
Now the airframe is completely compromised. I will buy again some foam board and completely rebuild it.
Please help what should I do to get it airborne....

If you were up for 20 seconds you have enough power to fly.
As Hoomi said check to make sure you horizontal is parallel to the bottom of the wing, if it is move you battery back.