The Life of my Tiny Trainer | Build Log and Review

[The Hangar]

Yup - it is for pointing the propeller. You put the propeller in and when you tighten the nut down, it presses against the metal collar on below the prop causing the metal piece that grips the shaft to press against the shaft and keep it from coming off.

 

[MrSandyWilly]

Yup - it is for pointing the propeller. You put the propeller in and when you tighten the nut down, it presses against the metal collar on below the prop causing the metal piece that grips the shaft to press against the shaft and keep it from coming off.

The only issue is that my prop doesn't fit onto the shaft for that piece

 

[The Hangar]

The only issue is that my prop doesn't fit onto the shaft for that piece

Is it too small? You can buy props with different diameter shafts, and if yours doesn't fit, you can drill it out.

 

[Aireal Anarchist]

If you have a drill press to get a proper 90 degrees to the prop you still have to center it PERFECT, if not perfect it will cause bad vibrations, that can ruin bearings....... thats one main reason we balance props

props are cheap ....with all due respect.....dont waste your time

measure the diameter of the threaded shaft of your "Prop Adaptor" and buy some props that fit, many props come with also called prop shaft spacers these days so maybe go that direction

 

[The Hangar]

I just used a bit slightly larger than the prop hole, then worked my way up till I got to the right size. The props had no vibration whatsoever.

 

[MrSandyWilly]

If you have a drill press to get a proper 90 degrees to the prop you still have to center it PERFECT, if not perfect it will cause bad vibrations, that can ruin bearings....... thats one main reason we balance props

props are cheap ....with all due respect.....dont waste your time

measure the diameter of the threaded shaft of your "Prop Adaptor" and buy some props that fit, many props come with also called prop shaft spacers these days so maybe go that direction

Thanks, I'll guess I'll just buy some more!

 

[FDS]

Where are you getting your props?

 

[MrSandyWilly]

Where are you getting your props?

As soon as I can, although there’s no rush because I won’t be able to fly it for obvious reasons.

 

[FDS]

I buy 6x4 APC style props for my TT. The grey ones. If the prop doesn’t fit a prop reamer is the best tool to open out the centre, sometimes you have to open up even the adaptor rings a bit to get them to fit.
Also get or make a load of spare firewalls and have at least two spare complete power pods with you when you fly. I broke 32 power pods and firewalls in 9 months flying my TT!

 

[MrSandyWilly]

I'm reviving this thread! I've been waiting a long time for this day... the time has come - lockdown is a bit looser, weather is good... time for the maiden! I'm really nervous!

 

[cdfigueredo]

I'm reviving this thread! I've been waiting a long time for this day... the time has come - lockdown is a bit looser, weather is good... time for the maiden! I'm really nervous!

i have been out those days. i am glad to hear u are ready for maiden. Best of lucks for u.

 

[The Hangar]

I'm reviving this thread! I've been waiting a long time for this day... the time has come - lockdown is a bit looser, weather is good... time for the maiden! I'm really nervous!

Good luck!!

 

[MrSandyWilly]

Couldn't have gone worse! The weighting was OK, and everything should've gone fine. I was trying to do just a small, low, straight hop, so I set throttle at a little less than 50% and went for it. The plane immediately rolled left while pitching up, and nosedived at a woman sitting nearby. No idea how I'm so unlucky - there was nobody else out; the plane managed to crash at the one person there.

The nose is completely wrecked, but the electronics are ok, the wings are unharmed, and the main fuselage is (touch wood) intact. Any ideas as to why this might have happened?

 

[KSP_CPA]

I found my TT was a bit underpowered with the A pack motor and was susceptible to tip stalling even with the polyhedral wing. Worst crash I ever had was a similar circumstance; straight and level, under power pitch up, left wing stall, into unrecoverable nose dive.

I did like my CG a bit more forward of the marks to prevent sudden pitch ups. I dialed down the throws too, as it seemed a 1/8 inch (3.175mm) movement in the sticks was about the max I wanted on low rates.

 

[JasonK]

My TT works ok with the A pack motor... 2cell on a 6x3 prop needs 75% or higher to really fly, 3cell I can get down to about 35-40% on my 4 channel wings if I engage my flaps (flapperons) with level flight.

moving my CG forward from the marks did really help with the flight characteristics.

I did have some issues with wing tip drops when turning slow and sharp with the 3 channel wing.. which sort of makes sense, a sharp turn is lowering the inside's wings speed compared to the over all air speed, so if your close to stall speed, that wing is going drop below that stall speed.

 

[KSP_CPA]

My TT works ok with the A pack motor... 2cell on a 6x3 prop needs 75% or higher to really fly, 3cell I can get down to about 35-40% on my 4 channel wings if I engage my flaps (flapperons) with level flight.

moving my CG forward from the marks did really help with the flight characteristics.

I did have some issues with wing tip drops when turning slow and sharp with the 3 channel wing.. which sort of makes sense, a sharp turn is lowering the inside's wings speed compared to the over all air speed, so if your close to stall speed, that wing is going drop below that stall speed.

I made my TT out of Hobby Lobby foam board, which, despite it being MUCH more durable than dollar store or FT foam board, is considerably heavier. About 60% on 3 cell was necessary for level flight.

Flapperons on your TT wing?? That’s awesome!

 

[JasonK]

I made my TT out of Hobby Lobby foam board, which, despite it being MUCH more durable than dollar store or FT foam board, is considerably heavier. About 60% on 3 cell was necessary for level flight.

Flapperons on your TT wing?? That’s awesome!

ah, yes all that extra weight can be an issue... mine was 255g AUW with a 650mAh 2C on the 4 channel wing. the 3C added ~15g.

Since the TT 4 Channel wing already uses 2 servos, I just plugged them both into my receiver and configured flapperons on my TX, leaving me with 1 channel (6 channel TX/RX) if I wanted to add something like a bomb drop or what not...

 

[MrSandyWilly]

ah, yes all that extra weight can be an issue... mine was 255g AUW with a 650mAh 2C on the 4 channel wing. the 3C added ~15g.

Since the TT 4 Channel wing already uses 2 servos, I just plugged them both into my receiver and configured flapperons on my TX, leaving me with 1 channel (6 channel TX/RX) if I wanted to add something like a bomb drop or what not...

Mine's pretty heavy as well... The recommended equipment said a max 800mah LiPo, so thats what I bought. Its not light...

 

[daxian]

i had a lot of problems with my TT ..i almost gave up and sent it to the trash !!! it just would not fly !!
i did everything i could ...cg was good, weight was a problem at first making the cg hard to achieve,but followed other posts in here and got it balanced ...but it still would not fly !! untill i added a little incidence to the leading edge(popsicle stick under the leading edge of the wing) after that it flew perfect !!!
dont worry about the weight of the battery or the weight of the plane ...mine flys with a 2s 1300 or a 3s 1000 as long as the cg is good it will fly fine ,more weight just means it will fly faster !!
a good launch speed is best to avoid the left turn on launch ...i found 2/3 throttle the best to get it in the air and up to height then reduce to half throttle for cruise ...hope this helps !!

 

[JimonLemon]

.... Cutting bevels takes a little practice. I usually make a score line to help guide me. ...

I'm only on my second plane but the bevel method that worked very well was: Score (just cut through the paper but not foam) the line you want for the back edge of the bevel and carefully remove the paper- about a 5 mm strip. That gives a nice line to aim for with your knife. Then cut away most of the excess foam but stay a little clear of the hinge line and this paper cut line. Don't worry if it isn't super even. Now use the sanding block to finish up- you get a nice smooth bevel with less effort.

If I could only fly the things!