Three Dimensional Flying with a Two Dimensional Plane!

Headbang

Master member
Maidened the latest build tonight, got a chance to really give it hell, and got lots of video. Still testing cg, but definatly .25" in front of the 9g servo marks is a good place to start (reasonably stable and still able to do most things)
 

TooJung2Die

Master member
But in the short distance and when the control horn changes it's axis (couldn't come up with the right word :D ) you have the rod pulling down and actually twisting the servo arm slightly.
When you have short push rods like that you can eliminate the twisting and bending by mounting the servo so the servo arm moves in the same plane as the control horn. For an aileron control horn on top, mount the servo horizontally so the servo arm points up.
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
When you have short push rods like that you can eliminate the twisting and bending by mounting the servo so the servo arm moves in the same plane as the control horn. For an aileron control horn on top, mount the servo horizontally so the servo arm points up.
Can you show a pic maybe? That would be worth 1000 words to me😂 I’m pretty sure I get it though.
 

TooJung2Die

Master member
Can you show a pic maybe?
I snapped a quick photo. Very short push rod wire. Servo and aileron control horn on the bottom of a wing. Same idea for the top.

IMG_1524.JPG


This push rod is made from two z-bend wires and a piece of heat shrink tubing. After the length of the push rod had been fine tuned a drop of thin CA glue on each end of the heat shrink locks it in place. Never had one come loose.
Jon
 

Headbang

Master member
I snapped a quick photo. Very short push rod wire. Servo and aileron control horn on the bottom of a wing. Same idea for the top.

View attachment 145960

This push rod is made from two z-bend wires and a piece of heat shrink tubing. After the length of the push rod had been fine tuned a drop of thin CA glue on each end of the heat shrink locks it in place. Never had one come loose.
Jon
That is easy to do on larger planes, little harder on a wing 10mm thick. All of my larger planes are done that way on the wings, but unless it is a pull pull setup the rudders are always done in a not so perfect way. If using thicker stiff control rods, a bend will help. On thin rods I have just been drilling the control horn hole a smidge bigger to allow a little slop to relieve binding. 0.5mm slop makes no difference on control.
 

TooJung2Die

Master member
That is easy to do on larger planes, little harder on a wing 10mm thick.
10mm is pretty thick. Not hard to cut a hole for the servo. For a profile 3D I'd rather use a single aileron servo up behind the motor. Less weight and easier to achieve CG with the weight forward.
 

Wildthing

Legendary member
When you have short push rods like that you can eliminate the twisting and bending by mounting the servo so the servo arm moves in the same plane as the control horn. For an aileron control horn on top, mount the servo horizontally so the servo arm points up.

Well you could flush mount the servos into the wing , can't go into the fuse on this one though you have two opposing servos side by side and a 10mm thick fuse . If you go with one servo you are making a fair hole in the fuse and strength is limited already.
 

Headbang

Master member
10mm is pretty thick. Not hard to cut a hole for the servo. For a profile 3D I'd rather use a single aileron servo up behind the motor. Less weight and easier to achieve CG with the weight forward.
Issue with cg is not getting forward, so far issue on this one is getting the cg far enough back. Moving servos too far forward could create a situation where the battery has to move so far back it interferes with the ailerons.
 

Wildthing

Legendary member
Plus trying to keep it fast and simple to build. These short rods with a tiny bend in them are not going to flex , I am the guy that usually over does the build for strength :D
 

Headbang

Master member
Well you could flush mount the servos into the wing , can't go into the fuse on this one though you have two opposing servos side by side and a 10mm thick fuse . If you go with one servo you are making a fair hole in the fuse and strength is limited already.
One could mount the servos on the side, but honestly I think it just makes things more complicated then need be. If inset, you lose access to the servo arm screw, reducing setup options. Be careful about spending more time then need be, esspecially if not an accomplished 3d pilot. Would be better to spend time cutting a second and having it done and ready to accept electronics once the first on is destroyed.
 

Wildthing

Legendary member
One could mount the servos on the side, but honestly I think it just makes things more complicated then need be. If inset, you lose access to the servo arm screw, reducing setup options. Be careful about spending more time then need be, esspecially if not an accomplished 3d pilot. Would be better to spend time cutting a second and having it done and ready to accept electronics once the first on is destroyed.

Just Velcro the servos inplace. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

TooJung2Die

Master member
Would be better to spend time cutting a second and having it done and ready to accept electronics once the first on is destroyed.
Ain't that the truth. I made poster board templates of the plans for the first time ever. I knew there was going to be more than one built and I didn't want to print plans for each airplane. These airplanes are considered disposables. For that reason and others the only glue I use for mounting servos is hot glue. There's no risk of hot glue getting inside and ruining the servo. Plus, hot glue releases and comes off very easy with a squirt of alcohol. Makes recycling servos easy.
 

buzzbomb

I know nothing!
Ok, 3 weeks later I finally got around to editing this vid.
Here is the tests done with an A pack. Both stock and heavy setup.
Oh, but Heck yeah! I can't believe that plane did all that with an A-pack! That's nuts. Everyone seems to have forgotten that the design is not supposed to be a cruiser. That's not what it's about. It's all about that prop-hang and those crazy moves you were pulling off. With an A-pack!

Ooohhh, I can't wait to get it into the air! I know I'm going to crash the snot out of it, but darn. If I can get the prop hang, and then harrier into the landing? Regardless of the crashes in between, that'd be a win in my book! :D
 

Headbang

Master member
At this point I am not sure what my favorate setup is, I do lean towards a stock A pack tho for low and slow. F pack with 9g servos handles the wind better but is noticeably heavier. Maybe a stock F pack with 5g servos will be the ticket. I have a new radial F pack on order, so will test if it ever arrives.