Top Flite F8F Bearcat 0.60 size (Red Box Rescue)

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Not much visually, so I'll include boring pictures. I did more spackle on the wing and sanding. Finally got a coat of SS on as I was satisfied with the surface. Got some paint shot onto the control surfaces. We are nearly onto a final checklist here.
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IMO working from home should be more frequent so I can better utilize my lunch breaks!
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Yes, I swapped the motors from the dauntless and Hawk. New prop blades came in the mail too. This one is ready and now I have my motor and ESC ready for the Bee.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Not much to show. Glass is on the wings now and needs another couple of coats of SS.

I did sneak out and fly the Hawk yesterday afternoon. She is still a great one for putting on a show. The 3-blade prop is a very different sound from the Xoar 2-blade that was on her. Pleased as punch with the outcome.

Also got the prop for the Bee in the mail... Really need to finish the Bearcat now since I promised myself I'd not start on it until the cat was done.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
I believe we are now on the final home stretch. Let's cover some ground...

First, I got two coats of SS applied to the wings on Friday afternoon and let that cure overnight to harden up. After a round of sanding and cleaning, I removed all of the electronics from the wing and prepared as much as I had for paint. I began shooting the wings with primer and began shooting blue on the fuselage. While the paint was drying I continued to work on smaller things like... the cowl!

Yes, that ugly monster reared it's old head again. The cowl needed some serious work. I did some initial block sanding but it was pointless... the power sander came out and made quick work. I could see some pinholes but nothing like after I shot primer on. LOADS of them so I got the Bondo auto body spot filler out and applied it. It does not take long to dry but I did continue to cycle parts for paint. After more power sanding and another coat of primer, the cowl was ready to paint. Before I did, I wanted to drill out my holes. I wanted to be able to use a marker on the cowl and not have to worry about the finish. I marked my side center lines and traced on a piece of paper the outline. I marked a line across the circle where the horizontal line should be and then marked the center point. I made lines 45-degrees offset from the horizontal line and then put the cowl back on the tracing to mark the new lines on the rim of the cowl. I did NOT want any of the screws going through the bondo, which is why the lines for the holes were offset 45-degrees. I then placed the mounting ring on the tracing and lined up the mounting holes with the "X" from the reference lines for the holes to drill and then marked the horizontal line onto the mount. This is a reference mark on the mount for when I put the cowl on to drill the holes. After drilling the holes 5mm from the edge, Paint was show on the mount and the cowl.

At the end of the day I had lots of paint curing and hardware ready to be installed. Yesterday I took time to install the aileron servo along with a ball link from a club member since I did not have any on-hand, needed only one, and my hobby shop is not exactly "critical" given our current times. At any rate, it was installed along with the flap servos and landing gear. I did take time to align the wheels and landing gear and checked for proper retraction. Things look good there but time will tell.
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Cowl mount ring installed and cowl too.
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I recently received some Oratex for an upcoming project and given how unhappy I was with how the covering looked on the control surfaces, I thought I'd have a go and see if it looked better. The results were amazing, it took paint very well too, so I stripped the old covering off everything and applied new to it, including the flaps. While my one test piece, the rudder, got paint the others need paint too. The rudder was installed with glue and a servo horn.
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Now I know what you might be thinking... OF COURSE I had to put the cowl and prop on...
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willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Let's make a to-do list and see if I can knock this out.

Cockpit: paint and install instrument panel (no pilot)
Trim and install canopy; needs a bit of paint too
paint elevators, ailerons, and flaps
Install elevators: linkage is internal so only hinges and epoxy to u-joiner required
Install flaps: offset hinges and servo horn, linkage to servo
Install ailerons: needs hinges and horns
Gear covers: needs mounts designed and 3D printed
Apply decals from Callie
install receiver and connect all systems, program radio
CG check
Taxi test
Maiden
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Let's make a to-do list and see if I can knock this out.

Cockpit: paint and install instrument panel (no pilot)
Trim and install canopy; needs a bit of paint too
paint elevators, ailerons, and flaps
Install elevators: linkage is internal so only hinges and epoxy to u-joiner required
Install flaps: offset hinges and servo horn, linkage to servo

Install ailerons: needs hinges and horns
Gear covers: needs mounts designed and 3D printed
Apply decals from Callie

install receiver and connect all systems, program radio
CG check
Taxi test
Maiden

Elevators Installed.
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Flaps installed.
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Cockpit painted and instrument panel installed.
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Decals applied (wings too)
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Canopy glue was cure this morning.
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Mounts for gear covers designed (5 minutes) and printed (about an hour)
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willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Install ailerons: needs hinges and horns
Gear covers: needs mounts designed and 3D printed
install receiver and connect all systems, program radio
CG check
Taxi test

Maiden
All that's left is the maiden.

I got the gear covers on. Not too hard but I had to think ahead. I cut down the printed mounts a bit and positioned them on the struts where they needed to clear the retract mechanism (at the top) and the oleo slot (at the bottom). I then retracted the gear and applied some double-sided tape to the oleo so I could temporarily adhere the covers to the oleos. I then extended the gear and marked the position of the mounts on the covers. From there I removed everything. I drilled 1/16" holes into the mounts and inserted screws and heated them while screwing them in to create threads that would hold better by melting the print just a little. I positioned the mounts on the struts and drilled holes into the covers from the back side through the mounts (held in place) to get holes that would align perfectly with the mounts. After screwing things together lightly, I retracted the gear again and rotated the covers slightly to fit flush with the bottom of the wing and tightened the screws. I should also note that I sanded the mounts where they meet the covers so that when tightened it would bend the covers slightly to a curve to fit the wing skin a little more flush. I'm satisfied with the fit, finish, and hold of the covers.
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Aileron installation was done with no issues. Slots had been previously cut so I marked the LE of the aileron where a slot in them needed to be cut and installed pin hinges to match the other surfaces. Control horns installed to alight with the pre-installed push rods and added clevises making sure the TE aligns with that of the flaps but about 2 mm down. This was intentional as I've consistently read that this model likes to tip stall. Having the ailerons slightly down helps but is not a catch-all to alleviate the issue.
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Receiver installed and rough programming done so it was time for some beauty shots.
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I'll note that I could not find my screen door material to insert into the wing LE vent intakes. When I find that, I'll install some to clean that area up. Just cut to fit the opening and spray on adhesive works to keep it in place. I'll then put a thin coat of canopy glue on it to keep it there for good as any spray-on adhesive will loosen over time.

I then took time to install batteries fully and checked the CG. It is 1/4" forward of the recommended forward position. I thought this might be the case with that heavy cowl. I had considered a 3D printed dummy radial but this confirms my thoughts in building so it will not be added. Weight of the model is 8.6 pounds. Batteries are 2 pounds so AUW is 10.6 pounds. It's a touch over the recommended flying weight and certainly a lighter battery would help the AUW as well as the CG but I'm happy with a forward CG for a maiden.

The taxi testing went well and on high rates, she turns on a dime and tracks pretty straight. As the rudder and tail gear are directly linked I may have to adjust the rudder clevis if the rudder is badly out of trim. Throws were set per my TLAR method and experience. The manual, plans, and supplemental documentation I have make no mention of throws. I'll fly her with what I've set, which includes 60% expo as a safeguard.

Flight plan for maiden is as follows. Take off per usual tail dragger warbird procedure by applying throttle slowly with some elevator to start tracking straight using rudder to correct the track (likely feeding right rudder to counter torque). I'll start on mid-rates all around and see how much elevator authority I have to keep her level with the forward CG. Climb will be shallow with slow turn into my down wind leg trying to gain more altitude and feel trims. I'll make a few circuits to trim as-needed while maintaining a high flight. Once lined up for an upwind leg I'll do a stall test trying to gently recover on controls and gently applying throttle again. Circling back to the upwind leg I will set throttle to half and test the flaps. This is essential as the flaps may cause the airplane to pitch. They may cause the airplane to balloon (typical for these warbirds) which will indicate a future mix requirement with the elevator. Based on that, I'll decide if it is acceptable to use flaps to land. I'd like to as this will likely be a hot model to land so I do not want any surprises. If the pitching points the nose down I may forego the flaps on landing as the elevator input may be different at lower speeds. Landing approach will be typical low power trying to bleed off speed to try and touch down for a rather long roll out. I'll likely need a couple of passes to feel this out.

With all the variables of things that can go wrong with a maiden I've always thought through my maiden flights and strictly adhered to them. Things go wrong so a fire extinguisher will be readily available.
 

Tench745

Master member
Looks beautiful, I can't wait for the maiden.
One question, you said drooping the ailerons helps prevent tip-stalling? I would have thought that would increase the relative AOA of the wingtip and cause it to tip-stall. On many civilian planes (Piper Cub, Pietenpol, Baby Ace, etc) they trim the ailerons to "float" to decrease the AOA at the wingtip. This is also why aircraft like the Storch doesn't droop the ailerons until a certain amount of flap has been fed in.

Is the Bearcat somehow different?
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Looks beautiful, I can't wait for the maiden.
One question, you said drooping the ailerons helps prevent tip-stalling? I would have thought that would increase the relative AOA of the wingtip and cause it to tip-stall. On many civilian planes (Piper Cub, Pietenpol, Baby Ace, etc) they trim the ailerons to "float" to decrease the AOA at the wingtip. This is also why aircraft like the Storch doesn't droop the ailerons until a certain amount of flap has been fed in.

Is the Bearcat somehow different?
It has little to do with AOA of the wing tip but everything to do with the camber. Look at it in the simplest of ways... FT airplanes have flat-bottom airfoils and under-cambered wing tips. This is essentially what I'm doing here. By changing the center angle of the ailerons evenly on both sides they are inducing a flap-like effect creating a slight amount of lift at the cost of drag. The benefit is a very stable wing at higher angles of attack. Consider the word flaperon. Same principle.
 

Tench745

Master member
It has little to do with AOA of the wing tip but everything to do with the camber. Look at it in the simplest of ways... FT airplanes have flat-bottom airfoils and under-cambered wing tips. This is essentially what I'm doing here. By changing the center angle of the ailerons evenly on both sides they are inducing a flap-like effect creating a slight amount of lift at the cost of drag. The benefit is a very stable wing at higher angles of attack. Consider the word flaperon. Same principle.

Gotcha, I follow.
I wonder why those rag-and-tube aircraft rig their ailerons to float. I suppose this would be one of those case-by case basis things and the reasoning my be unrelated to tip-stall characteristics. I did notice after I posted my response that my examples were all constant chord wings which have a natural tendency to stall from the root outward. Don't know how much that that factors in though.
Flaperons were the reason I mentioned the Fieseler Storch specifically as it has both flaps and flaperons, but the flap mechanism doesn't begin to droop the flaperons until about half-flap is deployed.
(Link for those interested)
Theoretically I could see there being a point when the induced AOA of alieron droop could overcome the higher alpha an undercambered airfoil will stall at, but that wouldn't be a factor here.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
I let this stew for a day before reporting here. This section lives up to its name here. I broke it.

Taxi testing on the runway showed a slight tendency to go left, as expected. I lined up at one end of the runway and applied the throttle and got to about 2/3. She was rolling well and started to veer left so I fed right to correct then she hit a bump. That bump made her jump in the air and she just did not have enough airspeed yet but I was committed. She started to stall and I was able to correct and she turned more into the wind. I was level but trying to slowly gain altitude when she started to tip again and I corrected. I was level again and applied throttle to full and saw speed jump so I applied a bit more throttle before I would biff into the peak of a hill and then... She snap rolled onto her back and nosed right in from 20' off the deck.

My thought is that due to how nose-heavy she was, I just did not have enough speed for the H-stab when I applied elevator and the tail just stalled. I've seen this happen before on nose-heavy warbirds where the tail surface area is of scale size and the tail will just slip out. I was very surprised at how violent it was but there you go.

The entire airplane is scrapped and gutted. Even the tail was not salvageable for a mounting. I had my fun building and I really do mean that. Not every build goes the way you want it and this is just another case of that. I'm over it and moving on.
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OliverW

Legendary member
I let this stew for a day before reporting here. This section lives up to its name here. I broke it.

Taxi testing on the runway showed a slight tendency to go left, as expected. I lined up at one end of the runway and applied the throttle and got to about 2/3. She was rolling well and started to veer left so I fed right to correct then she hit a bump. That bump made her jump in the air and she just did not have enough airspeed yet but I was committed. She started to stall and I was able to correct and she turned more into the wind. I was level but trying to slowly gain altitude when she started to tip again and I corrected. I was level again and applied throttle to full and saw speed jump so I applied a bit more throttle before I would biff into the peak of a hill and then... She snap rolled onto her back and nosed right in from 20' off the deck.

My thought is that due to how nose-heavy she was, I just did not have enough speed for the H-stab when I applied elevator and the tail just stalled. I've seen this happen before on nose-heavy warbirds where the tail surface area is of scale size and the tail will just slip out. I was very surprised at how violent it was but there you go.

The entire airplane is scrapped and gutted. Even the tail was not salvageable for a mounting. I had my fun building and I really do mean that. Not every build goes the way you want it and this is just another case of that. I'm over it and moving on.
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Ugh. I'm sorry that happened. The crash of a kit built plane is always devastating