TOTALLY NEW GUY, Electrical component questions.

[AL1995]

Hello, I'm sure I am one of many to ask the very same new guy questions, so if you have an existing thread for this then link me please. I am very excited to start my first fixed wing/ plane build. I have no experience with copter or plane builds or required components. I have watched several introductory videos on the youtube. My intent is to build an FPV (does FPV mean has a camera or that your flying with goggles on, I don't really want goggles in the beginning) fixed wing drone that is supported by ArduPilot. I have 3D printing, machining, and Electrical skills as well as many hours in Kerbal space program (just a game I know).
Question(s):
1: What is your preferred vender website for Plane Components (from what I see the majority of FC's cater to Copter builds)
2: Is there a starter kit for plane electronics so I can complete the general Wiring, programming, and testing for a better understanding of "What's going on under the hood"
3: What is the "PSA Freedom rifle" version of plane electronics so that when I inevitably crash the first 37 test flights it doesn't hurt so bad
4: What controller should I purchase? Development into long range flight will be important to me.
5: I see things like "Following DJI standard" Does this matter to me as a fixed wing builder?
6: It appears that FC's are classed by their maximum battery size supported, is this a correct observation?
7: Is there an Glossary of all the specifications of electrical components required for building so that I can better understand what I am looking at?
8: I see some FC's have plug in ports, where do I get the harnesses that are supported by that FC to Device

About 10 gazzilion other questions but thanks to any and all that engage me.

 

[Houndpup Rc]

Welcome to the fun!😁👍

My intent is to build an FPV (does FPV mean has a camera or that your flying with goggles on, I don't really want goggles in the beginning)

Yup, that's FPV and you will want to get some practice flying LOS (Line of Sight) before you go under the hood.

1: What is your preferred vender website for Plane Components (from what I see the majority of FC's cater to Copter builds)

If you are running Ardupiloit you will probably want a Pixhawk or something..I know very little about Ardupiloit but @LitterBug might be able to help you there. For starting out I recommend going with INAV as it basically a light version of Ardupiit and a LOT simpler, but still gives you lots of options. If you end up starting with INAV the Speedybee F405 wing FC or a F405 Matek are great options! GetFPV has a pretty good selection👍 Otherwise Ready Made Rc has served me well! I normally buy my FC;s (Flight Controllers), GPS's ect off Aliexpress as they are usually half the price of in the US due tothe tarrifs

Is there a starter kit for plane electronics so I can complete the general Wiring, programming, and testing for a better understanding of "What's going on under the hood"

Yup, there are lots of PNP (Plug'n Play) kits you can buy that will get you started! I am not sure if there are any Pixhawk ones (I think there are) but most any modern FC can run INAV.

3: What is the "PSA Freedom rifle" version of plane electronics so that when I inevitably crash the first 37 test flights it doesn't hurt so bad

I like that😂👍 Pretty mush all electronics will take a crash (Unless its really hard...Like a 100ft straight down dive and even then most of them will survive) but I definitely recommend you get metal geared servos as they only cost slightly more and basically never strip!

4: What controller should I purchase? Development into long range flight will be important to me.

TX16 is hands down the best chioce when it comes to long range, automous flight ect Though if you are on a tighter budjet you can get something like the Radiomaster pocket and add a module on the back..Or the Jumper T12 MAX has the same output as the Tx16 as is a LOT cheaper!..You just get less options

5: I see things like "Following DJI standard" Does this matter to me as a fixed wing builder?

IDK, I tried that, but its really about having fuun, and DJI is meant for camera work...If you are fun flying ect just tune it to suit you!👍 (AKA: Slow and long flights or crazy fast and fun!😂😂)

It appears that FC's are classed by their maximum battery size supported, is this a correct observation?

I belive thay are usally classified by the prosessor speed like a F7 is faster than a F405, though F405 is plenty for any wing.

7: Is there an Glossary of all the specifications of electrical components required for building so that I can better understand what I am looking at?

I can work something out for you as soon as I get a chance!

8: I see some FC's have plug in ports, where do I get the harnesses that are supported by that FC to Device

Usally they have the opion to solder it on or [plug it in...If there are no plugs or I don't have the right plug I just solder, but if I happen to have the right one I use that! Hope this helps, and if you have any more questions be sure to "fire away"!👍😁

 

[Houndpup Rc]

7: Is there an Glossary of all the specifications of electrical components required for building so that I can better understand what I am looking at?

This what you want?
The "Brain" & Software

• FC (Flight Controller):The central hub. It uses gyroscopes to keep the plane level.
  • AKA: The Brain, Autopilot, Stabilizer.
• ArduPilot: A professional-grade, open-source autopilot software. It is extremely powerful for long-range and autonomous missions but has a steeper learning curve.
• INAV: A "lighter," more user-friendly software than ArduPilot. It’s great for beginners who want GPS features (like Return to Home) without the complexity of industrial-grade software.
• Firmware: The "operating system" you flash onto your FC (e.g., you "flash" ArduPilot onto your SpeedyBee FC).

The Radio Control Link​

• TX (Transmitter): Your handheld remote (like the RadioMaster TX16S).
• RX (Receiver): The small chip on the plane with antennas that catches the signal from your TX.
• ELRS (ExpressLRS): Currently the "Gold Standard" for long-range flying. It’s cheap, open-source, and has incredible range.
• UART: These are the "ports" on your FC (labeled TX and RX). This is where you solder your GPS or Radio Receiver so they can "talk" to the brain.

Propulsion & Power​

• ESC (Electronic Speed Controller): This sits between the battery and the motor. It takes the signal from the FC and tells the motor how fast to spin.
• BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit): A voltage regulator. It takes high battery voltage (e.g., 22.2V) and steps it down to 5V or 9V to power your FC, camera, and servos.
• LiPo / Li-ion: Types of batteries. LiPos give high "punch" (speed), while Li-ions (like the 18650 cells) are better for long-endurance cruising.
• S (Cell Count): Refers to battery voltage. 3S is about 11.1V, 4S is 14.8V, etc. Most Wing FCs are rated for 2S-6S.

FPV (First Person View)​

• FPV: Flying from the pilot's perspective via a camera.
• LOS (Line of Sight): Flying while looking at the plane in the sky with your own eyes. (Highly recommended for your first few flights!)
• VTX (Video Transmitter): The device on the plane that broadcasts the video signal.
• OSD (On-Screen Display): The text overlay on your video feed that shows battery voltage, altitude, and speed.
• Walksnail / DJI / HDZero: These are "Digital" FPV systems (HD). Analog is the older, lower-resolution version that looks like old TV static but is very cheap.

Hardware & Tools​

• Servos:The little motors that move your flaps/ailerons.
  • Pro Tip: Metal Gear (MG) servos (like the MG90S) are the "PSA Freedom" choice—tough, cheap, and won't strip in a minor crash.
• JST / SH Connectors: These are the tiny white "plug and play" harnesses. If your FC has ports, it usually comes with a bag of these wires in the box.
• PNP (Plug 'n Play): A plane that comes with the motor, ESC, and servos installed, but no Receiver or Battery.
• KIT: Just the foam/frame. You provide all the electronics.

 

[WickedFog]

This what you want?
The "Brain" & Software

• FC (Flight Controller):The central hub. It uses gyroscopes to keep the plane level.
  • AKA: The Brain, Autopilot, Stabilizer.
• ArduPilot: A professional-grade, open-source autopilot software. It is extremely powerful for long-range and autonomous missions but has a steeper learning curve.
• INAV: A "lighter," more user-friendly software than ArduPilot. It’s great for beginners who want GPS features (like Return to Home) without the complexity of industrial-grade software.
• Firmware: The "operating system" you flash onto your FC (e.g., you "flash" ArduPilot onto your SpeedyBee FC).

The Radio Control Link​

• TX (Transmitter): Your handheld remote (like the RadioMaster TX16S).
• RX (Receiver): The small chip on the plane with antennas that catches the signal from your TX.
• ELRS (ExpressLRS): Currently the "Gold Standard" for long-range flying. It’s cheap, open-source, and has incredible range.
• UART: These are the "ports" on your FC (labeled TX and RX). This is where you solder your GPS or Radio Receiver so they can "talk" to the brain.

Propulsion & Power​

• ESC (Electronic Speed Controller): This sits between the battery and the motor. It takes the signal from the FC and tells the motor how fast to spin.
• BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit): A voltage regulator. It takes high battery voltage (e.g., 22.2V) and steps it down to 5V or 9V to power your FC, camera, and servos.
• LiPo / Li-ion: Types of batteries. LiPos give high "punch" (speed), while Li-ions (like the 18650 cells) are better for long-endurance cruising.
• S (Cell Count): Refers to battery voltage. 3S is about 11.1V, 4S is 14.8V, etc. Most Wing FCs are rated for 2S-6S.

FPV (First Person View)​

• FPV: Flying from the pilot's perspective via a camera.
• LOS (Line of Sight): Flying while looking at the plane in the sky with your own eyes. (Highly recommended for your first few flights!)
• VTX (Video Transmitter): The device on the plane that broadcasts the video signal.
• OSD (On-Screen Display): The text overlay on your video feed that shows battery voltage, altitude, and speed.
• Walksnail / DJI / HDZero: These are "Digital" FPV systems (HD). Analog is the older, lower-resolution version that looks like old TV static but is very cheap.

Hardware & Tools​

• Servos:The little motors that move your flaps/ailerons.
  • Pro Tip: Metal Gear (MG) servos (like the MG90S) are the "PSA Freedom" choice—tough, cheap, and won't strip in a minor crash.
• JST / SH Connectors: These are the tiny white "plug and play" harnesses. If your FC has ports, it usually comes with a bag of these wires in the box.
• PNP (Plug 'n Play): A plane that comes with the motor, ESC, and servos installed, but no Receiver or Battery.
• KIT: Just the foam/frame. You provide all the electronics.

Nice list! There is also:
BNF (Bind and fly): An aircraft that comes pre-built with all the electronics installed. You choose your Rx at purchase, so you just need to make sure it is compatible with your Tx, like ELRS, Spektrum DSM2/DSMX, FrSky, etc.

 

[AL1995]

This what you want?
The "Brain" & Software

• FC (Flight Controller):The central hub. It uses gyroscopes to keep the plane level.
  • AKA: The Brain, Autopilot, Stabilizer.
• ArduPilot: A professional-grade, open-source autopilot software. It is extremely powerful for long-range and autonomous missions but has a steeper learning curve.
• INAV: A "lighter," more user-friendly software than ArduPilot. It’s great for beginners who want GPS features (like Return to Home) without the complexity of industrial-grade software.
• Firmware: The "operating system" you flash onto your FC (e.g., you "flash" ArduPilot onto your SpeedyBee FC).

The Radio Control Link​

• TX (Transmitter): Your handheld remote (like the RadioMaster TX16S).
• RX (Receiver): The small chip on the plane with antennas that catches the signal from your TX.
• ELRS (ExpressLRS): Currently the "Gold Standard" for long-range flying. It’s cheap, open-source, and has incredible range.
• UART: These are the "ports" on your FC (labeled TX and RX). This is where you solder your GPS or Radio Receiver so they can "talk" to the brain.

Propulsion & Power​

• ESC (Electronic Speed Controller): This sits between the battery and the motor. It takes the signal from the FC and tells the motor how fast to spin.
• BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit): A voltage regulator. It takes high battery voltage (e.g., 22.2V) and steps it down to 5V or 9V to power your FC, camera, and servos.
• LiPo / Li-ion: Types of batteries. LiPos give high "punch" (speed), while Li-ions (like the 18650 cells) are better for long-endurance cruising.
• S (Cell Count): Refers to battery voltage. 3S is about 11.1V, 4S is 14.8V, etc. Most Wing FCs are rated for 2S-6S.

FPV (First Person View)​

• FPV: Flying from the pilot's perspective via a camera.
• LOS (Line of Sight): Flying while looking at the plane in the sky with your own eyes. (Highly recommended for your first few flights!)
• VTX (Video Transmitter): The device on the plane that broadcasts the video signal.
• OSD (On-Screen Display): The text overlay on your video feed that shows battery voltage, altitude, and speed.
• Walksnail / DJI / HDZero: These are "Digital" FPV systems (HD). Analog is the older, lower-resolution version that looks like old TV static but is very cheap.

Hardware & Tools​

• Servos:The little motors that move your flaps/ailerons.
  • Pro Tip: Metal Gear (MG) servos (like the MG90S) are the "PSA Freedom" choice—tough, cheap, and won't strip in a minor crash.
• JST / SH Connectors: These are the tiny white "plug and play" harnesses. If your FC has ports, it usually comes with a bag of these wires in the box.
• PNP (Plug 'n Play): A plane that comes with the motor, ESC, and servos installed, but no Receiver or Battery.
• KIT: Just the foam/frame. You provide all the electronics.

Thank you very much for the feed back, very good info. I was already pretty much sold on the TX16s ELRS but wanted some confirmation. I will go the INAV route for starting out and learning. I am currently designing my Wing components. I am trying to set up my build with a modular motor mount wing section that also houses my servo for Aileron control so I can expand my thrust/lift capacity with minimal design change. With that being said this first design will have dual motors/ props. (I am having a hard time finding the exact props recommended in the motor specs (EMAX), What does a 5030 *3 blade prop define. 5" blades each or blades equal a 5" inscribed diameter, 3" pitch (What does this mean?)
Is it better to have opposing rotational forces towards or away from centerline?
Does each Motor require a ESC, If I run Quad motors does power bank Utilize a ESC, for down the road development.
Is there a visual reference for different servo linkage methods with regards to different placement positions?

What are the pins or secondary device that control the Servos referred to as, does it come directly through the FC or something like the ESC, How many are there? As in can you have 5 servos for traditional Aileron function 2 wings/ 3 tail and then an additional for landing gear or a parachute deployment hatch like a model rocket?

 

[Piotrsko]

Prop: 5" is the total diameter being 1,2,3,4, whatever many blades. Generally it will fit inside a ring slightly bigger than the diameter, Interference fits are a no-no. Motor tends to bounce around some.
Pitch is the amount of distance it travels in on full revolution (in theory). because of drag and other losses, it wont typically "make pitch". bigger number, the theoretical faster it should fly. Recognize it is spinning at a dozen or so thousand rpm so there are losses so, NO you cant do a 500 pitch.
The power transistors are tiny so you can't have 5 servos on a single channel anymore, think 3 is the limit. Red is battery positive, black is generally battery negative (aka common ground) and white brown or yellow / orange is the servo data wire, battery black being the common return part of the circuit. Channel is equal to servo function: elevator is the typically 2nd channel (not guaranteed) and you can mix channels like elevons and flaps so you only use 2 servos instead of the 3 or 4 I use on my ancient equipment

 

[AL1995]

Prop: 5" is the total diameter being 1,2,3,4, whatever many blades. Generally it will fit inside a ring slightly bigger than the diameter, Interference fits are a no-no. Motor tends to bounce around some.
Pitch is the amount of distance it travels in on full revolution (in theory). because of drag and other losses, it wont typically "make pitch". bigger number, the theoretical faster it should fly. Recognize it is spinning at a dozen or so thousand rpm so there are losses so, NO you cant do a 500 pitch.
The power transistors are tiny so you can't have 5 servos on a single channel anymore, think 3 is the limit. Red is battery positive, black is generally battery negative (aka common ground) and white brown or yellow / orange is the servo data wire, battery black being the common return part of the circuit. Channel is equal to servo function: elevator is the typically 2nd channel (not guaranteed) and you can mix channels like elevons and flaps so you only use 2 servos instead of the 3 or 4 I use on my ancient equipment

If the motor specs recommend a 3 blade 5030 is there a chart that states equivalent thrust can be obtained by a 2 blade 6030 while maintain similar amperage loads on the motor?
Also what do the motor numbers indicate. I can see that the KV values have different load values but what does a "2808" motor tell me vs a "2812" motor?

 

[AdityaPratap]

If the motor specs recommend a 3 blade 5030 is there a chart that states equivalent thrust can be obtained by a 2 blade 6030 while maintain similar amperage loads on the motor?
Also what do the motor numbers indicate. I can see that the KV values have different load values but what does a "2808" motor tell me vs a "2812" motor?

There isn’t really a chart that directly equates a 3-blade 5030 to a 2-blade 6030 for the same thrust and amp draw. The best reference is real thrust tests.
You can check YouTube ,search the motor name + “thrust test”. If someone has tested different props on that motor, you can see the actual thrust and current numbers and compare for yourself. Also, let me know what motor and battery you’re planning to use if I find any relevant test data, I can share it with you

For the motor numbers: 2808 or 2812 refer to the motor’s stator size.


28 = stator diameter (mm)
08 and 12 = stator height (mm)

A taller stator (like 2812) generally means more torque, higher power handling, and the ability to spin larger or more aggressive props compared to a 2808 at similar KV.

 

[Mr NCT]

If the motor specs recommend a 3 blade 5030 is there a chart that states equivalent thrust can be obtained by a 2 blade 6030 while maintain similar amperage loads on the motor?
Also what do the motor numbers indicate. I can see that the KV values have different load values but what does a "2808" motor tell me vs a "2812" motor?

The motor manufacturer or dealer MAY have a chart for amps and thrust with different props & batteries. For instance:

https://innov8tivedesigns.com/images/specs/Cobra_C-2203-28-E36_Specs.htm

On the motor numbers usually the first 2 digits are the motor diameter and the second 2 are the motor length, both in mm. Then you will have a kv number which is rpm per volt.

 

[AL1995]

There isn’t really a chart that directly equates a 3-blade 5030 to a 2-blade 6030 for the same thrust and amp draw. The best reference is real thrust tests.
You can check YouTube ,search the motor name + “thrust test”. If someone has tested different props on that motor, you can see the actual thrust and current numbers and compare for yourself. Also, let me know what motor and battery you’re planning to use if I find any relevant test data, I can share it with you

For the motor numbers: 2808 or 2812 refer to the motor’s stator size.


28 = stator diameter (mm)
08 and 12 = stator height (mm)

A taller stator (like 2812) generally means more torque, higher power handling, and the ability to spin larger or more aggressive props compared to a 2808 at similar KV.

I ended up finding the correct listed propellers of 7035 on Aliexpress not only that but in CW and CCW set so I am a happy camper. I ordered 6s 8000mah battery and intend on running dual 2808's. I got a hunch it's overkill, expecting around 4600gm thrust @ full throttle. But those are for 25.2V input and I got Lith-ion Battery and see output be a 10% under nominal. Figured the big battery be good for managing CG

 

[Houndpup Rc]

There isn’t really a chart that directly equates a 3-blade 5030 to a 2-blade 6030 for the same thrust and amp draw. The best reference is real thrust tests.
You can check YouTube ,search the motor name + “thrust test”. If someone has tested different props on that motor, you can see the actual thrust and current numbers and compare for yourself. Also, let me know what motor and battery you’re planning to use if I find any relevant test data, I can share it with you

For the motor numbers: 2808 or 2812 refer to the motor’s stator size.


28 = stator diameter (mm)
08 and 12 = stator height (mm)

A taller stator (like 2812) generally means more torque, higher power handling, and the ability to spin larger or more aggressive props compared to a 2808 at similar KV.

If the motor specs recommend a 3 blade 5030 is there a chart that states equivalent thrust can be obtained by a 2 blade 6030 while maintain similar amperage loads on the motor?
Also what do the motor numbers indicate. I can see that the KV values have different load values but what does a "2808" motor tell me vs a "2812" motor?

Though ChatGPT seems to be able to get a pretty good estimate, though take everything AI says with caution👍

Short answer: there is no direct “conversion” — thrust depends on motor KV, voltage, and prop brand — but we can estimate the difference very closely.

What the numbers mean​

• 5x3x3 = 5 inch diameter, 3 inch pitch, 3 blades
• 6x3 = 6 inch diameter, 3 inch pitch, 2 blades

Diameter affects thrust far more than blade count.

General physics rule​

Thrust ≈ proportional to diameter⁴ × blade efficiency

So going from 5 inches to 6 inches is a big jump.

Real-world effect (typical quad motor example)​

On the same motor and voltage:

Prop	Relative thrust
5x3x3	baseline
6x3 (2 blade)	about 30–45% more thrust

Even with fewer blades, the 6 inch prop almost always makes more thrust because of the diameter.

Why the 5x3x3 exists​

The 5x3x3 trades thrust for:

• Faster throttle response
• More grip in corners
• Higher amp draw
• More motor heat
• More noise

The 6x3:

• Makes more lift
• Is more efficient
• Flies smoother
• Pulls less current per gram of thrust

Simple rule of thumb​

A 6x3 will out-thrust a 5x3x3 by roughly one third more thrust on most setups.

If you want numbers​

If you tell me:

• Motor model
• KV
• Battery (S count)

I can give you actual thrust grams, amps, and efficiency difference from real test data.

But straight truth:

6x3 = more thrust.
5x3x3 = more control and snap.

 

[AL1995]

Though ChatGPT seems to be able to get a pretty good estimate, though take everything AI says with caution👍

Short answer: there is no direct “conversion” — thrust depends on motor KV, voltage, and prop brand — but we can estimate the difference very closely.

What the numbers mean​

• 5x3x3 = 5 inch diameter, 3 inch pitch, 3 blades
• 6x3 = 6 inch diameter, 3 inch pitch, 2 blades

Diameter affects thrust far more than blade count.

General physics rule​

Thrust ≈ proportional to diameter⁴ × blade efficiency

So going from 5 inches to 6 inches is a big jump.

Real-world effect (typical quad motor example)​

On the same motor and voltage:

Prop	Relative thrust
5x3x3	baseline
6x3 (2 blade)	about 30–45% more thrust

Even with fewer blades, the 6 inch prop almost always makes more thrust because of the diameter.

Why the 5x3x3 exists​

The 5x3x3 trades thrust for:

• Faster throttle response
• More grip in corners
• Higher amp draw
• More motor heat
• More noise

The 6x3:

• Makes more lift
• Is more efficient
• Flies smoother
• Pulls less current per gram of thrust

Simple rule of thumb​

If you want numbers​

If you tell me:

• Motor model
• KV
• Battery (S count)

I can give you actual thrust grams, amps, and efficiency difference from real test data.

But straight truth:

6x3 = more thrust.
5x3x3 = more control and snap.

Solid, Emax III 2808 1300kv w/ 6s Lith-ion. Got all my parts picked out in Aliexpress but my card went into fraud prevention and so I have to convince them it's not a stolen card. Here's my starting components, there is still time to select different if advised.

TX16S MKII V4.0 Hall Gimbals ELRS

Matek MATEKSYS F405 WING V2
RadioMaster RP3 V2 ExpressLRS 2.4ghz Nano Receiver
MATEK Mateksys GNSS M10Q-5883 GPS Magnetic Compass

EMAX ECOIII 2808 Brushless Motor 1300KV
6Pairs(6CW+6CCW) Gemfan Hurricane 7035 7X3.5X3 3-Blade Reinforced PC Propeller
40A ESC OPTO 2-6S Brushless ESC
EMAX Official ES08MA II 12g Mini Metal Gear Analog

6S 30C High Rate Drone Lithium Battery Series: 22V (4000mah)- XT60 Connector (+ what looks like an 8ish pin FC power cable)
"25.2V 5A 10A Li-ion Fast Charger For 6S 21.6V 22.2V Lithium Electric Tool Battery Charger DC XT60" Chinesium

Is there any other core component to get R&D done? I think I'm going to worry about a nice Moon light FPV camera once I'm confident in flight characteristics.

 

[AdityaPratap]

Solid, Emax III 2808 1300kv w/ 6s Lith-ion. Got all my parts picked out in Aliexpress but my card went into fraud prevention and so I have to convince them it's not a stolen card. Here's my starting components, there is still time to select different if advised.

TX16S MKII V4.0 Hall Gimbals ELRS

Matek MATEKSYS F405 WING V2
RadioMaster RP3 V2 ExpressLRS 2.4ghz Nano Receiver
MATEK Mateksys GNSS M10Q-5883 GPS Magnetic Compass

EMAX ECOIII 2808 Brushless Motor 1300KV
6Pairs(6CW+6CCW) Gemfan Hurricane 7035 7X3.5X3 3-Blade Reinforced PC Propeller
40A ESC OPTO 2-6S Brushless ESC
EMAX Official ES08MA II 12g Mini Metal Gear Analog

6S 30C High Rate Drone Lithium Battery Series: 22V (4000mah)- XT60 Connector (+ what looks like an 8ish pin FC power cable)
"25.2V 5A 10A Li-ion Fast Charger For 6S 21.6V 22.2V Lithium Electric Tool Battery Charger DC XT60" Chinesium

Is there any other core component to get R&D done? I think I'm going to worry about a nice Moon light FPV camera once I'm confident in flight characteristics.

I have used the emax eco series motor (eco II, 1700 KV) for my vtol, and I can tell you that these motors consume a lot of power. I also saw on the official EMAX website that the motor you selected draws a maximum current of 56 amps. so, I would suggest choosing a higher-rated ESC, like I am using a Ready to sky 80 amp ESC

 

[AL1995]

I have used the emax eco series motor (eco II, 1700 KV) for my vtol, and I can tell you that these motors consume a lot of power. I also saw on the official EMAX website that the motor you selected draws a maximum current of 56 amps. so, I would suggest choosing a higher-rated ESC, like I am using a Ready to sky 80 amp ESC

Double check the 1300kv. Looked like max amps around 36~ with listed prop. Should I be looking for a lower KV for efficiency? If so what range is ideal for plane use?

 

[Piotrsko]

Kv is a motor  consumption rating, but it kinda pocket calculates to thrust because prop design hasn't had real breakthroughs in efficiency since the 1940's. Bent fan turbines is a different discussion, sonic is another.

 

[AdityaPratap]

Double check the 1300kv. Looked like max amps around 36~ with listed prop. Should I be looking for a lower KV for efficiency? If so what range is ideal for plane use?

I have attached the picture showing the motor specs, and I’m also providing the link to make sure I’m looking at the correct motor you’re referring to

EMAX ECOIII series 2808 3-6S 1300KV 1500KV brushless motor

RC,R/C,Model,FPV Racing,fpv racing drone,Drone racing,Multicopters,FPV,Brushless Motors,ESCs,Speed controllers,LiPO batteries

emaxmodel.com

I think the motor you selected is good and efficient enough. I would also suggest using a LiPo battery with a higher C rating, like 120c or above, since these motors tend to draw a lot of power. I’m saying this based on my own experience building a VTOL, where power consumption is quite high

 

[Piotrsko]

120 (c) times 5500 mah gives you 660 thousand mili watts or 660 amps. 600 amps on my car motor requires 0000 gauge stranded wires at 1pound a running foot. So, no.

 

[AL1995]

120 (c) times 5500 mah gives you 660 thousand mili watts or 660 amps. 600 amps on my car motor requires 0000 gauge stranded wires at 1pound a running foot. So, no.

So what's the verdict, use Lipo or Li-ion?

 

[AL1995]

View attachment 255835 I have attached the picture showing the motor specs, and I’m also providing the link to make sure I’m looking at the correct motor you’re referring to

EMAX ECOIII series 2808 3-6S 1300KV 1500KV brushless motor

RC,R/C,Model,FPV Racing,fpv racing drone,Drone racing,Multicopters,FPV,Brushless Motors,ESCs,Speed controllers,LiPO batteries

emaxmodel.com

I think the motor you selected is good and efficient enough. I would also suggest using a LiPo battery with a higher C rating, like 120c or above, since these motors tend to draw a lot of power. I’m saying this based on my own experience building a VTOL, where power consumption is quite high

So the ESC should be selected off peak draw of the motor and not the listed draw with spec prop? I just don't want to allow *2 amps into that motor if the combo doesn't call for it. Is it better to burn up the ESC at $10 or the motor at ~$30? My thought is with effective battery voltage of ~22v the max draw be even reduced by 10% unless I got my theory wrong. I'm sure with a more aggressive/ bigger prop it would climb into that listed amp draw.

 

[AdityaPratap]

So the ESC should be selected off peak draw of the motor and not the listed draw with spec prop? I just don't want to allow *2 amps into that motor if the combo doesn't call for it. Is it better to burn up the ESC at $10 or the motor at ~$30? My thought is with effective battery voltage of ~22v the max draw be even reduced by 10% unless I got my theory wrong. I'm sure with a more aggressive/ bigger prop it would climb into that listed amp draw.

While choosing an esc, it should always be rated higher than the motor’s peak current, usually with about 10 A extra margin , this is what I follow. There’s no harm in selecting a higher amp esc, since the motor will draw only the required current and the rest acts as headroom for safety. In your case, if the motor draws a maximum of 60 amps at full throttle, then the extra 20 amps is just safety margin and won’t affect the motor in any way. Avoid selecting any ESC with a current rating lower than the motor’s peak current.