Tricopter
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teflyer
Full Circle
It probably will still work, but perhaps not to its full potential. The amount of current through the motor determines how fast the motor is spinning. One thing that puzzles me is that the motor has a rated Watt of 180W which means with a 3s, the amount of amps it takes is 16.2 A. However, I believe that they reccoment a 30A ESC because the 30A ESC can stand a 4s battery. A 18A ESC cannot, only 2s to 3s.
Burg
Never catch a multirotor
Nic,
I can write a full explanation for this but it is better to watch this review from Bruce:
http://youtu.be/ZJHlJYDJohc
Mark.
I can write a full explanation for this but it is better to watch this review from Bruce:
http://youtu.be/ZJHlJYDJohc
Mark.
I have the mk2 parkjet and have launched 5 times....... 2 successful and man does that thing fly i mean
it is real quick...the other three launches have resulted in the jet being smashed to pieces less than 5
feet away.....and man do they break good
it is real quick...the other three launches have resulted in the jet being smashed to pieces less than 5
feet away.....and man do they break good
I want longer wire to my HK TURNIGY Plush 18amp Speed Controller. I have the Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 16AWG (1mtr) BLACK and RED. Can I cut half of the speed controller red and black wire and solder my extension wire, or should I cut all the black and red wire of the speed controller and solder my extension wire to the electronic board of the speed controller?
If you want to extend the wires, then extend the motor wires.
Why? It has been determined that long power wires can kill ESC's over time.
Source: http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42035
glydr
How many letters do we ge
A very short extension could be possibly ok (i.e. you have the ESCs mounted as close to the centreplates as possible) and connecting at the wire rather than the ESC board is acceptable. If you are pretty new with a soldering iron (or just plain bad at it) I'd suggest soldering at the wire to reduce the chance of damaging the board.
I chose to solder the thicker wire when lengthening the motor cables right on the board as I was concerned with power drop over the length of the cable and wanted to give it as much wide diameter cable as possible. Note that the solder that they used in the factory melts at a higher temperature than the regular solder that I bought from a local electronics store.
G
justemailme
Junior Member
This video and David's website inspired me to build a tricopter and leap into FPV. Just shot my maiden video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNjJQtSBD4o
For 60 cm arms, yes. I bought a bag of 10 - I picked the three most rigid ones, and after some time opening and folding the frame, one of the sticks broke at the axis screw. Maybe around 30-40 cm arms it will get better with the rigidity, but not with the breakability problem.
I also found that zip-ties sink into the wood quite harshly.
In a month or so I'll have most parts to start building my tricopter - so then I'll be able to test the range of booms I have gotten. These include:
3/4" (actually 5/8") square aluminum tube
13 x 13 mm cheap wood of some kind
10 x 10 mm laurel (?) wood, not well cut, width varies badly
Maybe I'll try eucalyptus booms!
I've heard that balsa and carbon or Aluminium (U- or L-shape) reinforcement makes for stiff arms!
That depends - how much power does your copter have?
For the standard RCExplorer tricopter it's 24 inch arms - and it has around 3000g (6.6 lbs) of total power - which makes for 750 grams of pull on each boom. The following setup is at 17", with a 2200mAh 25C LiPo - Around only 200 - 250 grams, and the boom bends too much.
I have no experience with basswood. If it is stiff enough it can be used.
How stiff, you may wonder. In my opinion, a 1x1x60 cm piece, with 50 cm over a table edge, shouldn't flex more than 1 cm with a 2200mAh battery on the tip, like shown above.
If the booms are too flexible, they can break if you push the throttle, or you'll have a bouncy platform.
