Tricopter

Shadow74

Multi-rotor madman
The other thing that you could do you, is go to a local hardware store and get a small round bubble level. Stick it on the back of your drill and when your drilling you can watch the level to make sure that it's 90 degrees.

In fact I think there is an app for droid and iphone.... that does this as well.

Just a thought. ;-)
 
Last edited:

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
Even if you drill it wrong, the flat sides of the prop will aid in making it straight. I had/have the same problem.
 

dezertdog

Senior Member
The specs of the HK NX-4008-620kv Brushless Quadcopter Motor says that the suggested ESC is a 30A, but will it be compatible and working good if I put a 18A ESC? If yes, why?

I'm not really sure why they recommend a 30A ESC... Per this chart, I interpret that it draws no more than 13A in any config listed, it would seem an 18A ESC should work just fine.

4.jpg
 
Last edited:

Nic

Member
When I'm soldering my bullet connectors, does it bother if the sleeve of the wire go into the solder?
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
When I'm soldering my bullet connectors, does it bother if the sleeve of the wire go into the solder?

It's hard to say without seeing it, but it's not a problem if enough wire is well soldered to the connector. The sleeve is just plastic. If you are unsure about it, might as well resolder it.
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
Open question: is there a way to limit servo travel on the yaw mechanism? Because there is a physical limit which the servo wants to break. Limiting throws on the Tx is a no go as it messes up the arming procedure.
 

dezertdog

Senior Member
Open question: is there a way to limit servo travel on the yaw mechanism? Because there is a physical limit which the servo wants to break. Limiting throws on the Tx is a no go as it messes up the arming procedure.

If I'm picturing what you're saying right, you would do this by making the throw arm / push rod shorter I would imagine?
 

Nic

Member
yeah but it's in this video that i'm not sure if he's dipping only the unsleeved wire or part of the unsleeved wire and part of the wire. If you don't understand i'll make a drawing for you!
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
If I'm picturing what you're saying right, you would do this by making the throw arm / push rod shorter I would imagine?

HAHA yes, on a plane, I would hav done that, but I can't do that as I'm using David's (RCExplorer) direct drive mechanism:

tricopter70.jpg
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
yeah but it's in this video that i'm not sure if he's dipping only the unsleeved wire or part of the unsleeved wire and part of the wire. If you don't understand i'll make a drawing for you!

Sure, make a drawing, or upload a photo! But you need to peel the cable where you are going to solder it.
 

Nic

Member
wire and sleeve.jpg

When i'm soldering my bullet connector, can the "wire and sleeve" be part of my solder, or I need to peel off some sleeve to make a good solder? Do the sleeve will absorb the current if i'm soldering the "wire and sleeve"?

Sorry for my drawing skills.
 

Tritium

Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
You must solder only the wire. The sleeve or jacket as it is called is an insulator and will not conduct electricity nor will solder stick to it. Remove it for a length that matches the depth of the connector you are soldering and then use heat shrink tubing to insulate the connector from contact with anything else. Look at other peoples pictures for guidance.

Thurmond