Tubby B17 Build
- Thread starter dbmarcott
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- dummy engine tubby b-17
dbmarcott
Junior Member
Yes, flew it before I painted it and put the faux engines in it. It took a lot of tweaking the rudder channel for proper differential thrust control. It flew great but took some ground handling practice. The second flight I dropped the Tubby Bomb to everyone's surprise. A lot of FUN.
dbmarcott
Junior Member
I'm sure everyone has a way of doing this but this is my solution. I wanted to keep the small numbers on the tail properly aliened. I cut out the just slightly outside the numbers on the vinyl graphics page. Then I put it face down on the sticky side of a sheet of Glad Press n' Seal. Then pealed the backing off the numbers keeping them on the Press n' Seal with the tip of my exacto (a tooth pick will work too). Then place the Press n' Seal with the numbers on the tail, rub them onto the tail then slowly peal off the Press n' Seal. Perfectly aliened numbers!
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That's a lot cheaper than using "official" backing! Great idea!
dbmarcott
Junior Member
Here are the STL 3D printable files. I printed the faux engine mounts from ASA (or PETG) because it is very close to the motor housing.
Also the alignment pin on the faux engine mount is placed on the bottom, The Wright Cyclone was installed in the B17 with the odd numbered cylinder at the top position unlike many of the fighter engine installations. I printed these all in PLA Plus with 2 shells and 5 percent infill to keep them light. The gun barrels I printed from PTEG to be less brittle.
Zoom Master
Elite member
Love it it looks very nice !
dbmarcott
Junior Member
FlightLine 9.5 x 7 3-Blade Electric Propeller from Motion RC they are available in standard and revers pitch.
How did you make the electronic connections. I want to build one, but I'm confused with the multimotor connections. Cannot fine a video.
Piotrsko
Legendary member
Making the assumption that you have a modern radio with computer control, the left side of the plane has a left stick movement for more power and is generally tied to the rudder channel. This is mixed with throttle for power to both sides. If you have a pre computer radio, it gets a wee bit crazy adding mixers. I personally favored huge very authoritative rudder control since .049 stuff didn't have a throttle option.
B17wingnut
Member
Nose Cone Paint
Use pin-striping tape to mask off the plexiglass frame and spray paint grey. Remove the tape after the paint dries and the black surface will be the frame. Optionally, if your plane isn't painted olive drab, use green pin-striping tape to create the nose cone frame. Finish with glossy Clear Coat for scratch prevention.
Use pin-striping tape to mask off the plexiglass frame and spray paint grey. Remove the tape after the paint dries and the black surface will be the frame. Optionally, if your plane isn't painted olive drab, use green pin-striping tape to create the nose cone frame. Finish with glossy Clear Coat for scratch prevention.
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RickHunter
Elite member
Looks great. Tubby is a fun plane. Added flaps on mine after the first few flights. Quick and easy. Really happy I did. Makes those landings much better on those days without wind.
B17wingnut
Member
Nacelle Covers and Dummy Engines
Round yellow nacelle covers and dummy radial engines (both for 1600mm B-25 Mitchel) are available from Motion RC. The dummy engines will mount with provided screws, but only one position (square box on bottom) will let all 3 screws bite into the wood. Note: The hole for the motor is a little tight, so use a Dremel grinder to enlarge the hole to provide sufficient clearance to keep the motor bell from rubbing on the plastic ring.
Paint the wood firewall silver/ aluminum.
The B-25 cowlings just fit the square nacelle openings. Use a stripe of hot glue on the top, sides and bottom to affix the cowlings. Be careful not to let the cowlings bulge forward while holding them as the glue cools or the prop will not clear the cowl. If that happens, the best solution is to pop off the bulging side/s and re-glue. It is also possible to use a Dremel grinder to trim down the bulge and paint (not cosmetically as nice).
Round yellow nacelle covers and dummy radial engines (both for 1600mm B-25 Mitchel) are available from Motion RC. The dummy engines will mount with provided screws, but only one position (square box on bottom) will let all 3 screws bite into the wood. Note: The hole for the motor is a little tight, so use a Dremel grinder to enlarge the hole to provide sufficient clearance to keep the motor bell from rubbing on the plastic ring.
Paint the wood firewall silver/ aluminum.
The B-25 cowlings just fit the square nacelle openings. Use a stripe of hot glue on the top, sides and bottom to affix the cowlings. Be careful not to let the cowlings bulge forward while holding them as the glue cools or the prop will not clear the cowl. If that happens, the best solution is to pop off the bulging side/s and re-glue. It is also possible to use a Dremel grinder to trim down the bulge and paint (not cosmetically as nice).
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B17wingnut
Member
Propellers
3-bladed FlightLine Electric Propellers (3x 9.5x 7 for the 2000mm B-24 Liberator) are a direct fit/replacement and are available from Motion RC in standard and reverse pitch. All propellers should be balanced before use. Note: nacelles must be mounted on the wings with enough space between them (at least 3.5” /90mm) to account for prop clearance. The FT kit markings provide just enough room.
Paint the prop nuts aluminum.
3-bladed FlightLine Electric Propellers (3x 9.5x 7 for the 2000mm B-24 Liberator) are a direct fit/replacement and are available from Motion RC in standard and reverse pitch. All propellers should be balanced before use. Note: nacelles must be mounted on the wings with enough space between them (at least 3.5” /90mm) to account for prop clearance. The FT kit markings provide just enough room.
Paint the prop nuts aluminum.
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B17wingnut
Member
Canopy/ Battery Hatch Cover Windows
Instead of stickers made by FT, the canopy can be cut out for windows. Acetate sheets (Michael’s 8" x 5" Acetate Sheets, 8ct. by Make Market) can be easily trimmed to fit; they are transparent but they are cloudy. You can reinforce the center side post with a Popsicle stick cut to length. Almost as easy, and much better looking, is to make the windows out of picture frame clear acetate (Michael’s 8" x 10" Clear Plastic Sheet, by Studio Decor).
Instead of stickers made by FT, the canopy can be cut out for windows. Acetate sheets (Michael’s 8" x 5" Acetate Sheets, 8ct. by Make Market) can be easily trimmed to fit; they are transparent but they are cloudy. You can reinforce the center side post with a Popsicle stick cut to length. Almost as easy, and much better looking, is to make the windows out of picture frame clear acetate (Michael’s 8" x 10" Clear Plastic Sheet, by Studio Decor).
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B17wingnut
Member
Pilots
While the model is approximately 1:20 scale, 1:10 scale pilots (about 2”) look best. Motion RC has 1:14 scale pilots (for the 2000mm B-24 Liberator) that are accurate representations of B-17 pilots, but they do look a little small in place. These can be attached to a plate that is beveled to fit the top of the fuselage over the bomb bay, like a Jack o’ Lantern top. Use 1” black electrical tape to make a hinge at the front of the pilot plate so that the bomb bay can be readily accessed. For a latch/hold-down, use 2 small magnets placed side-by-side over the join at the rear of the hatch; one glued to the hatch and the other glued to the fuselage. Leave space for the rear wall of the canopy or cut a small notch out of canopy rear wall.
While the model is approximately 1:20 scale, 1:10 scale pilots (about 2”) look best. Motion RC has 1:14 scale pilots (for the 2000mm B-24 Liberator) that are accurate representations of B-17 pilots, but they do look a little small in place. These can be attached to a plate that is beveled to fit the top of the fuselage over the bomb bay, like a Jack o’ Lantern top. Use 1” black electrical tape to make a hinge at the front of the pilot plate so that the bomb bay can be readily accessed. For a latch/hold-down, use 2 small magnets placed side-by-side over the join at the rear of the hatch; one glued to the hatch and the other glued to the fuselage. Leave space for the rear wall of the canopy or cut a small notch out of canopy rear wall.
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B17wingnut
Member
Turrets
The B-17 has a very distinct silhouette. The Tubby gets the airframe shape (fattened), but not the whole picture. What’s missing? The gun turrets! For those builder who don't have a 3D printer, to add top and bottom turrets, use a “Kayney Acrylic Dome with Flange Clear Plastic Hemisphere Transparent Case for CCTV Camera Lens” (from Amazon). This item comes in several diameters. The 2.8” works for the lower ball turret (mounted behind the rear wing fuselage wall - for ground clearance and wing mounting clearance - with embedded mini-magnets in body and hot-glued to the top of the flange); use the 2.4” for the upper turret (mounted just behind the fixed canopy wall) with a gunner figure if you want a little more realism, and use the 1.2” Kayney bubble for the navigator’s nose window (mounted just before the slanted foam nose piece – i.e., on the seam). The radio operator had a gun pointed to the rear that was mounted at the rear of the superstructure. A piece of the Clear Plastic Sheet used for the cockpit windows can be cut to size (about 2” square) and glued to the sloping rear structure just forward of the horizontal stabilizer. The turret bubbles can be masked and spray painted, or use pin-stripe tape for the metal turret support structure.
Once these are in place, the Tubby begins to resemble the real thing. Skewer sticks painted black or 3D-printed .50 caliber guns can be added to the turrets to improve the realism even more. Drill a hole in the center of the radioman’s gun window and stick the skewer-gun through the window into the foamboard skin; don’t glue it so that the gun can be removed for transport.
The B-17 has a very distinct silhouette. The Tubby gets the airframe shape (fattened), but not the whole picture. What’s missing? The gun turrets! For those builder who don't have a 3D printer, to add top and bottom turrets, use a “Kayney Acrylic Dome with Flange Clear Plastic Hemisphere Transparent Case for CCTV Camera Lens” (from Amazon). This item comes in several diameters. The 2.8” works for the lower ball turret (mounted behind the rear wing fuselage wall - for ground clearance and wing mounting clearance - with embedded mini-magnets in body and hot-glued to the top of the flange); use the 2.4” for the upper turret (mounted just behind the fixed canopy wall) with a gunner figure if you want a little more realism, and use the 1.2” Kayney bubble for the navigator’s nose window (mounted just before the slanted foam nose piece – i.e., on the seam). The radio operator had a gun pointed to the rear that was mounted at the rear of the superstructure. A piece of the Clear Plastic Sheet used for the cockpit windows can be cut to size (about 2” square) and glued to the sloping rear structure just forward of the horizontal stabilizer. The turret bubbles can be masked and spray painted, or use pin-stripe tape for the metal turret support structure.
Once these are in place, the Tubby begins to resemble the real thing. Skewer sticks painted black or 3D-printed .50 caliber guns can be added to the turrets to improve the realism even more. Drill a hole in the center of the radioman’s gun window and stick the skewer-gun through the window into the foamboard skin; don’t glue it so that the gun can be removed for transport.
