Tubby B17 Build

[B17wingnut]

Turrets - 2

Two holes for skewer-guns can be drilled into each of the two bubble turrets. The top turret guns can use the pointed end of the skewer to push into the foamboard (the guns will be pointed slightly up - a good thing) to secure them for display (remove for flight?). To accomplish this upward angle, the holes will have to be drilled at an angle from the front hole to about 2/3 of way back under the bubble. The bottom bubble turret holes can be drilled parallel to the bubble base/ foamboard (to keep them from dragging but still be visible and permit easy removal of the bubble and guns as a unit before flying) and the blunt end of the skewers can be glued to the rear inside bubble wall.

 

[Jo's squadron]

Turrets - 2

Two holes for skewer-guns can be drilled into each of the two bubble turrets. The top turret guns can use the pointed end of the skewer to push into the foamboard (the guns will be pointed slightly up - a good thing) to secure them for display (remove for flight?). To accomplish this upward angle, the holes will have to be drilled at an angle from the front hole to about 2/3 of way back under the bubble. The bottom bubble turret holes can be drilled parallel to the bubble base/ foamboard (to keep them from dragging but still be visible and permit easy removal of the bubble and guns as a unit before flying) and the blunt end of the skewers can be glued to the rear inside bubble wall.

Wow that looks so good!

 

[B17wingnut]

Lights

The light kit for the 2.1M Cessna 150 from Horizon Hobby is perfect for adding wing tip strobes/ nav lights. The kit also allows for white rudder light and a rear red light. It is also possible to use the landing lights in the belly (complete with lens covers) for formation lights. A remote controlled on/off switch relay (Elechawk from Amazon) can be put between the receiver and the kit light control board and assigned to any open 2-position transmitter switch (e.g., the landing gear switch). These are an easy add-on while building; probably quite difficult to do post-build.

 

[B17wingnut]

Graphics

Callie Graphics makes decals/stickers for the Tubby. The standard sets at 1:9 scale work for the Tubby but Callie can make a set of different scale decals for the Tubby and one-off designs of nose art that are sent to her!

 

[B17wingnut]

After 2 months

 

[Mr NCT]

After 2 months

Very impressive build, good job! Can't wait to see it in the air.

 

[B17wingnut]

Lights

The light kit for the 2.1M Cessna 150 from Horizon Hobby is perfect for adding wing tip strobes/ nav lights. The kit also allows for white rudder light and a rear red light. It is also possible to use the landing lights in the belly (complete with lens covers) for formation lights. A remote controlled on/off switch relay (Elechawk from Amazon) can be put between the receiver and the kit light control board and assigned to any open 2-position transmitter switch (e.g., the landing gear switch). These are an easy add-on while building; probably quite difficult to do post-build.

Winter will not go away here in the frozen northland. This gives me lots of time to think of add-ons/ improvements. The LEDs protruding unprotected from the wing tips has been bothering me. After some lengthy puzzlement about what I could use for covers, I thought that household light switch covers might work – they do! (Be sure to get the fully enclosed cover – some only cover one side.)

I cut the hinge with a Dremel and used hot glue to affix over the LEDs. I made the upper surface smooth with the wing surface, which left a sizable gap under the wing tip. Acetate sheet –was the answer (the ones that I had on hand from the canopy window making exercise). I cut a small rectangular piece for each lower tip gap and made a rounded cutout for the wires. More hot glue for the edges and foam tac for the cover-acetate join completed the job. (Note: it would be possible to cut the half-dome cover in half lengthwise, but that might leave some scarring on the clear plastic.)

 

[B17wingnut]

I'm sure everyone has a way of doing this but this is my solution. I wanted to keep the small numbers on the tail properly aliened. I cut out the just slightly outside the numbers on the vinyl graphics page. Then I put it face down on the sticky side of a sheet of Glad Press n' Seal. Then pealed the backing off the numbers keeping them on the Press n' Seal with the tip of my exacto (a tooth pick will work too). Then place the Press n' Seal with the numbers on the tail, rub them onto the tail then slowly peal off the Press n' Seal. Perfectly aliened numbers!

I just get my numbers and all other decals from Callie Graphics. Already aligned and just peal and stick. Standard scale sizes are available (e.g., 1/9 scale) as are adjusted sizes (e.g., 1/1.96 scale). She does nose art from samples too.