Twin F-100 Super Sabre Projects - Two Approaches to One Great Plane!

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
I highly recommend you use music wire to join the stabilisers. That way you can bend them at 90 degree angles at the ends and form a "torque rod" so they don't start slipping.

I don't know the math on this, but the positioning of the pivot point on the stab matters. The further forward you put it, the more stable your tail will be, but the servos will have to work harder. The further back you put it the more unstable it is.

I hope you get the full flying hstab to work. I think they are awesome.
I thought about using a pushrod but doing some simple experiments, I found that with regular pushrod wire there is a lot of flex. That might be fixed if I had some thicker wire, but I don't.
 

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
Update Time!!
I did some tests for the full flying stab, with a BBQ skewer. There are a couple things that show a red flag, (1) If you hold hot glue sticks you can see that it's "rubbery" and when I glued down the BBQ skewer there was some flex originating from the glue joint (2) After I found out that hot glue wasn't going to work I tried it with some white gorilla glue to see if there would still be flex from the glue joint, so I used a short ~2 inch long piece of BBQ and adding a bit of torsional force to it, the skewer itself frayed!!

So I'm not going to do a full flying stab, because I want to keep this a relatively simple build, and using a simple setup for the full flying stab could lead to reliability issues, on a very important part of the plane. So I'm going to do a regular elevator instead.

On the bright side of things I got a new way for making a FB turtledeck that looks really nice, and the design is coming along very nicely. Any updates from you Damo?
 

dertycash

New member
Update Time!!
I did some tests for the full flying stab, with a BBQ skewer. There are a couple things that show a red flag, (1) If you hold hot glue sticks you can see that it's "rubbery" and when I glued down the BBQ skewer there was some flex originating from the glue joint (2) After I found out that hot glue wasn't going to work I tried it with some white gorilla glue to see if there would still be flex from the glue joint, so I used a short ~2 inch long piece of BBQ and adding a bit of torsional force to it, the skewer itself frayed!!

So I'm not going to do a full flying stab, because I want to keep this a relatively simple build, and using a simple setup for the full flying stab could lead to reliability issues, on a very important part of the plane. So I'm going to do a regular elevator instead.

On the bright side of things I got a new way for making a FB turtledeck that looks really nice, and the design is coming along very nicely. Any updates from you Damo?


you could use super glue with an activator to cure it instantly. it cure so fast that it does not have time to melt te foam! an alternative to an activator for the super glue is plain and simple baking soda .it will make the super glue hard as a rock in secconds!!

Hope it helps

Benoit ;)
 

DamoRC

Elite member
Mentor
Can't figure how I missed the update on this. I suppose that's what I get for only linking in to the "Whats's New" tab, on busy days the list of updates can be really long.

Looks like she flies well - brillaiant work. Any chance of a couple of close up pics?

I'm not going for the full moving tail at this point in the design.

No real update - just need to start cutting some FB.

Did you use cheater holes for the EDF?
 

Sheriff

Active member
Thank you sir,

It flew very well indeed, no issue with the center-of-gravity or the size of the moving surfaces. But on a 3 cell battery, I simply could not climb. I ordered a 4cell that should arrive soon. We'll see if it breaks the sound barrier than. ;-)

Close up picture as soon I get the time.

About the full-moving-tail; it's a challenge we HAVE to take on, but the F100 is not the right aircraft because of the interference with the thrust-tube.

Cheater holes? I did not know that name, I am learning. :)
Yes, I added gills to the underside to be safe. This is only my second EDF design and wanted to make sure it would fly, specially on the limited power of my 3 cells.

au revoir
Guillaume
 

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
you could use super glue with an activator to cure it instantly. it cure so fast that it does not have time to melt te foam! an alternative to an activator for the super glue is plain and simple baking soda .it will make the super glue hard as a rock in secconds!!

Hope it helps

Benoit ;)
That sounds like it will work, thanks!! I might try that on a personal ship.

But I want to try and keep the build "FT Friendly" so more people will have the ability to build it.
 

DamoRC

Elite member
Mentor
In Sketchup I pic three or 4 views of the model that I like.
At each viewpoint I add a scene - on my version of Sketchup its under the View menu, View -> Animation -> Add Scene. Then you can just play the animation in Sketchup.
Then I use a screen video capture software. I use OBS Studio for this - I think this was originally recommended by @thenated0g.
Then I use EZGIF, an online .GIF maker. This is a great site allowing you to manipulate your uploaded video file (trim, crop, rotate etc) and then produces a .GIF that you can download and save on your computer.

Hope this helps.
 
Damo and Grifflyer, I am an owner of a Fly Fly F-100 90mm. Too scared to fly it without a foam prototype. Any chance that you are close to a 2d set of foam plans?
 

DamoRC

Elite member
Mentor
Damo and Grifflyer, I am an owner of a Fly Fly F-100 90mm. Too scared to fly it without a foam prototype. Any chance that you are close to a 2d set of foam plans?

That's a nice looking plane. I see they put a cheater NACA duct underneath for the EDF (is that correct).

This isn't your first plane I presume?

I have a set of plans and about to start building but can't guarantee these will work yet. Not sure where @Grifflyer is with his.

@Sheriff has a set of plans and has demonstrated that his will fly.
 

thenated0g

Drinker of coffee, Maker of things
Mentor
Enjoying the thread. On my 70" i had at first considered fully moving elevators and put some thought into how to make that happen. But in the end i permanently mounted both elevators and just put a servo on each side for simplicity. And a second 50g servo in the back isnt that big of a deal on a 5kg plane lol.
 

DamoRC

Elite member
Mentor
Enjoying the thread. On my 70" i had at first considered fully moving elevators and put some thought into how to make that happen. But in the end i permanently mounted both elevators and just put a servo on each side for simplicity. And a second 50g servo in the back isnt that big of a deal on a 5kg plane lol.

Good to know - thanks. 5kg? And you're gonna slope soar that thing?:eek:
 

thenated0g

Drinker of coffee, Maker of things
Mentor
Well i think last time i measured it the weight was around 5kg, but thats with a 6s setup. So remove 300g motor, 50g esc, 1000g battery? Its a 5200mah 6s. So figure 3.5-4kg in slope mode. But it has 1,200 square inches of wing area. 16-18oz wing loading. or if you like Cubic loading its like 5-6.5 which puts it in the sail/park flyer category still. I need to remove the power setup and see.
 
Yes, It has a Semi - NACA duct that supports more air, and really a place for the nose gear to retrace into. My days at JPL would preclude me from really calling it a NACA duct :) I have contacted Sheriff to see if he will release his V1 Plans?

Cheers, Lynn
 

DamoRC

Elite member
Mentor
Yes, It has a Semi - NACA duct that supports more air, and really a place for the nose gear to retrace into. My days at JPL would preclude me from really calling it a NACA duct I have contacted Sheriff to see if he will release his V1 Plans?

Cheers, Lynn

Cool. I think I'll be putting a NACA duct in mine after I check the static thrust. And I will try to make it a proper NACA duct so as not to offend JPL;)