Ugly-EZ: Long-EZ scaled 132% to fit B motor pack

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
Ah! But what happens if you bump the ESC from a 20 to a 35, without changing the battery or prop? Does it allow the motor to draw more amps under load?
No, the motor, prop, and battery choices are the limiting factors, I could run a 200 amp esc on a mini scout without any problems other than the weight.
 

DutchRoll

Well-known member
No, the motor, prop, and battery choices are the limiting factors, I could run a 200 amp esc on a mini scout without any problems other than the weight.

So if the motor is kept the same, then the prop and battery are inversely related, as long as the prop is one the motor can accommodate and the battery is one the ESC can support. But if I increase the prop and battery proportionally, the ESC and motor are directly related, and must be sized to handle the load.
 

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
So if the motor is kept the same, then the prop and battery are inversely related, as long as the prop is one the motor can accommodate and the battery is one the ESC can support. But if I increase the prop and battery proportionally, the ESC and motor are directly related, and must be sized to handle the load.
Well I wouldn't go as far as saying parts are proportional to each other.
In this example let's say you're running a 2205 2300kv motor. If you run 6x4 prop you'll draw a certain amount of amps. If you decide to increase the size or pitch of the prop, like go to a 7x4 or a 6x5 prop, you'll draw more amps. If you run a smaller prop or less pitch like a 5x4 or a 6x3 prop, you'll draw less amps.
If you use a battery with more voltage like going from a 3s to a 4s your motor is going to spin faster which will cause it to draw more amps. The mah of a battery won't change how much amps the motor will pull. If you use a battery with less voltage like going from a 3s to a 2s your motor will spin slower and you'll draw less amps.
 

DutchRoll

Well-known member
Well, the Ugly EZ wouldn't roll straight on it's gear, so I picked it up, and lo' and behold, the main gear wires were two different lengths ( 4 1/8 vs 4 5/8) Ooops! No wonder I couldn't get it to go straight!

I'm just gonna take them off, and use a bungee launcher w/ rails and a hung blanket for a recovery net. That should keep my take off's straight and my landings controlled.
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
Well, the Ugly EZ wouldn't roll straight on it's gear, so I picked it up, and lo' and behold, the main gear wires were two different lengths ( 4 1/8 vs 4 5/8) Ooops! No wonder I couldn't get it to go straight!

I'm just gonna take them off, and use a bungee launcher w/ rails and a hung blanket for a recovery net. That should keep my take off's straight and my landings controlled.
Or you could just hand launch... Up to you though - a bungee launch would be cool to see!
 

DutchRoll

Well-known member
As a novice, I figured that launching via a bungee would leave me with more hands, and time to concentrate on the transmitter. Plus that's kinda how I launched my gliders as a kid (actually called a high-start).
 

DutchRoll

Well-known member
It maidened! Sort of, to be honest. LOL More like a crash with dignity.

The day is beautiful, clear skies with only an occasional puff or two of wind. So I headed out to the fields to give it a go. After a couple of aborted takeoffs, I managed to get it in the air on the third try. It got up about 50 feet, went out about 200 feet, kept rocking back and forth, and finally just rolled into the ground. The nose cap and the front canard took most of the damage, but the black foam in the nose did it's job and cushioned the battery from the blow.

Mistake #1 - I had set it up for aileron-elevator mixing, as I didn't think I had enough throw on the canard control surfaces to be effective. Wrong - I actually needed those front elevators. I had to manually push them down about 15 degrees just to get the plane to unstick from the ground on takeoff. With full RC front elevator control I should be able to take off at a slower speed.

Mistake #2 - My battery wasn't fully charged, so after all the aborts, when I finally got it up there, it just lost power at the end and I couldn't recover. I wasn't ready for total loss of thrust, so that is something I need to watch out for in the future.

I've repaired it, but considering how wonky it was in the air, I think a complete rebuild is in order. I need to reinforce the canard, give it some dihedral, and full flying control surfaces. As for the rear wing, I think adding true air foil would give me more lift.
 

DutchRoll

Well-known member
Actually, it didn't loose battery power - one of the motor bullet connectors had come undone, and that's why it lost power. After I fixed that, I managed to take off two more times.

The second time it flew a quarter pattern, but as I was turning for the back leg I rolled too far and it nosed into the ground. After that crash, the canard had broken and was pitched up. I tried taping it down, and using a rubber band to tension it.

It flew a third time, but I was having a difficult time gaining altitude even though I was at full throttle. I manged to bring it down the backleg and I reduced throttle thinking I was high enough up, but it immediately pitched nose down and I couldn't recover in time. Luckily it was the gear that took the impact that time.

I tried taking off again, but the rear pool noodle tires flew off the their hubs and it skidded out. So I tried to hand launch it discus style.

Mistake #3. It nosed over and crashed, breaking the prop, and ripping off the nose. And that's the end of that, at least for today.

Time to build the Ugly-EZ Mk2!

Post Maiden.jpg
 
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DutchRoll

Well-known member
if the plane had trouble "unsticking" or rotating you could move the main gear closer to the cg

The rear mains were pretty close to CG, like they are on the real EZ. No, I think the real issue with the plane was the single step wings , in that they were very thin relative to their chord, and they couldn't develop enough lift without going really fast. I was also having difficulty climbing and maintaining altitude, even at full throttle (1806 motor w/ 1300ah 3s and 9" prop).

By the about the 8th crash, the front canard was broken and skewed and the main wing was getting chewed up so I trashed the whole mess and started over.
 

DutchRoll

Well-known member
To save some foam, and to experiment with wide chord canards like the FT Long-EZ, I spent Sunday evening kit bashing. I took the left over nose from my Simple Soarer and used it as a base for the Mk2. The wings/canards are coming from a trashed Hobby Lobby glider where I broke the left wing root off.

I cut the solid foam wings down into the span of the Long-EZ 132%, and used the left over wing tips to make the canards. With the control tabs added(slices of foam board taped on), I might have made something that won't fly, but I'll wait to see what cgCalc has to say about my CG before I decide to try to fly it.
 

DutchRoll

Well-known member
Well, the cgCalc results are in, and the CG isn't way off after all: 0.75" - 1.11" from the leading edge, right about where it is on the Long-EZ. The CG is just behind the motor mount clip.

cgCalc - Ugly EZ.png 20200127_204055.jpg 20200127_204143.jpg