SWAPPABLE - UGLY WONDER
DESCRIPTION
The Ugly Wonder is another variation of the FT Bloody Wonder. If you have seen the build thread or the article for the Bloody Wonder MkIII, you probably already know that I'm a huge Bloody Wonder fan. I have built, flown and destroyed more of them than I care to count. Flying combat is one of my favorite things to do in the hobby. I'm lucky to have a son, brother and nephew to fly combat with from time-to-time. I always thought that it would be cool to have some different looking combat planes in the skies together. So, I started playing around with the design of the FT Bloody Wonder.
My first design was the Bloody Wonder MkIII. The MkIII to me, is really just an evolution of an already great design. I wanted to keep the same basic look and flight characteristics, but add some features to make it stronger, yet easier to build. Designing the fuselage and construction technique for the MkIII opened the door for what I was really after in the first place, a Bloody Wonder, with a whole new look.
For my second plane design, I give you the Ugly Wonder. The best way to describe it is a mash-up of a Bloody Wonder, FunBat, and an Ugly Stick. In this design, there is nothing left of the original FT Bloody Wonder. Oh, don't get me wrong, you can still see a Bloody Wonder lurking in there, but every piece of this plane has been modified to give it a vintage WWI era look. The wing area is slightly larger, and the surface area of the vertical stabilizers has been reduced, which should make it an even more maneuverable combat ship. The redesigned vertical stabilizers still allow for vertical take-offs as well.
DETAILS
3 Views and Isometric view of the 3D model
PLANS
Ugly Wonder v1.0
SPECIFICATIONS
WINGSPAN: | 29 IN |
LENGTH: | 24 IN |
WING AREA: | 236.5 SQ IN |
WEIGHT (AIRFRAME): | 6.56 ounces |
CHANNELS: | 3 |
CONTROLS: | AILERON, ELEVATOR, THROTTLE |
ELECTRONICS
SERVOS: | 2 X 9g (hekTronix HXT900) |
Combat Setup
PROPELLER: | 8X6 APC |
MOTOR: | NTM PropDrive 2826 1200kv |
ESC: | Turnigy Plush 25amp |
BATTERY: | 1000-2200 mah 3S |
Basic Setup
PROPELLER: | 9x4.7 Slow Fly |
MOTOR: | hekTronix 24gram 1300kv |
ESC: | Turnigy Plush 12amp |
BATTERY: | 500-1300 mah 3S |
Flight Video
BUILD LOG
Once you have your plans printed, get you parts cut out according to the plans and lets get started building the UGLY!
Fuselage Construction
Parts needed:
<02> Fuselage
<03> Fuselage Doubler X2
We'll start by assembling the fuselage, part number <02> on your plans. If you've built my Bloody Wonder MkIII, then this should feel very familiar to you. In fact, the fuselage for the Ugly Wonder is identical to the MkIII's.
1) Glue the C-Fold at the nose of the Fuselage. Try to avoid gluing over the score cuts for the dowels. Make sure everything is squared up so the fuselage sides fold up perpendicular to the top plate.
2) Glue the B-Folds for the fuselage sides one at-a-time. I like to use the edge of the table to square up the fuselage with the tabs that will protrude from the top. Make sure that your sides are perpendicular to the top plate. Repeat for other side.
3) Next get out your fuselage doublers, part number <03> on your plans. Ensure the doublers will fit snugly in the fuselage by lining up the notch in the doubler with the C-Fold in the fuselage. After checking for a proper fit, glue the doublers in place one at-a-time.
4) Lightly crease the score cut for the NACA cooling duct on the inside of the top plate of the fuselage. Apply a light bead of hot glue in the gap and fold the NACA duct down about 15-20° to the inside of the fuselage.
Your completed fuselage should look like this
Wing Construction
Parts needed:
<06> Wing
<07> Wing Spar
1) Cut the double 45° bevel along the score cut in the center of the wing, part number <06> on your plans.
2) Cut the single 45° bevels for each of the ailerons.
3) Remove the foam from the inside of the cavities for the spar tabs leaving the paper on the outside surface of the bottom of the wing. Note, you can choose to cut the openings all the way through, I just prefer the cleaner look you get by making the cavity.
4) Either crease at the indicated crease lines, or remove the paper in shaded section of the wing according to your preference for how you want the wing to look. I've been removing the paper from the inside of mine for a smoother looking airfoil.
Your wing should look similar to the following image at this point.
5) Score cut your spar, part number <07> on your plans, and fold it in half to establish the crease.
6) Apply glue to the inside of the fold and glue the two halves together.
7) Apply glue along the edge of the spar with the tabs and attach the spar to the wing by placing the tabs in the spar cavities.
8) Carefully test folding your wing and make sure that there is a slight gap between the bottom plate and the ailerons to allow proper deflection of the control surfaces.
9) Once you are happy with the wing shape, open the wing back up and apply glue along the double bevel groove, the top of the spar, and the trailing edge of the bottom plate. Then carefully fold your wing and apply pressure for enough time to let the hot glue properly cool.
Your finished wing should look like this.
Notice the smooth airfoil created by removing the paper from the inside of the wing as noted on the plans.
Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizers
Parts needed:
<04> Vertical Stabilizer X2
<05> Horizontal Stabilizer
1) Remove foam for cavities in the vertical stabilizers, part number <04> on your plans.
2) Cut the single 45° bevel for the elevator in the horizontal stabilizer, part number <05> on your plans.
3) Remove foam for the cavities in the horizontal stabilizer.
Final Assembly
Parts needed:
<02> Fuselage
<03> Fuselage Doubler X2
We'll start by assembling the fuselage, part number <02> on your plans. If you've built my Bloody Wonder MkIII, then this should feel very familiar to you. In fact, the fuselage for the Ugly Wonder is identical to the MkIII's.
1) Glue the C-Fold at the nose of the Fuselage. Try to avoid gluing over the score cuts for the dowels. Make sure everything is squared up so the fuselage sides fold up perpendicular to the top plate.
2) Glue the B-Folds for the fuselage sides one at-a-time. I like to use the edge of the table to square up the fuselage with the tabs that will protrude from the top. Make sure that your sides are perpendicular to the top plate. Repeat for other side.
3) Next get out your fuselage doublers, part number <03> on your plans. Ensure the doublers will fit snugly in the fuselage by lining up the notch in the doubler with the C-Fold in the fuselage. After checking for a proper fit, glue the doublers in place one at-a-time.
4) Lightly crease the score cut for the NACA cooling duct on the inside of the top plate of the fuselage. Apply a light bead of hot glue in the gap and fold the NACA duct down about 15-20° to the inside of the fuselage.
Your completed fuselage should look like this
Wing Construction
Parts needed:
<06> Wing
<07> Wing Spar
1) Cut the double 45° bevel along the score cut in the center of the wing, part number <06> on your plans.
2) Cut the single 45° bevels for each of the ailerons.
3) Remove the foam from the inside of the cavities for the spar tabs leaving the paper on the outside surface of the bottom of the wing. Note, you can choose to cut the openings all the way through, I just prefer the cleaner look you get by making the cavity.
4) Either crease at the indicated crease lines, or remove the paper in shaded section of the wing according to your preference for how you want the wing to look. I've been removing the paper from the inside of mine for a smoother looking airfoil.
Your wing should look similar to the following image at this point.
5) Score cut your spar, part number <07> on your plans, and fold it in half to establish the crease.
6) Apply glue to the inside of the fold and glue the two halves together.
7) Apply glue along the edge of the spar with the tabs and attach the spar to the wing by placing the tabs in the spar cavities.
8) Carefully test folding your wing and make sure that there is a slight gap between the bottom plate and the ailerons to allow proper deflection of the control surfaces.
9) Once you are happy with the wing shape, open the wing back up and apply glue along the double bevel groove, the top of the spar, and the trailing edge of the bottom plate. Then carefully fold your wing and apply pressure for enough time to let the hot glue properly cool.
Your finished wing should look like this.
Notice the smooth airfoil created by removing the paper from the inside of the wing as noted on the plans.
Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizers
Parts needed:
<04> Vertical Stabilizer X2
<05> Horizontal Stabilizer
1) Remove foam for cavities in the vertical stabilizers, part number <04> on your plans.
2) Cut the single 45° bevel for the elevator in the horizontal stabilizer, part number <05> on your plans.
3) Remove foam for the cavities in the horizontal stabilizer.
Final Assembly
ADDITIONAL IMAGES
Adversaries!
Here is the Ugly Wonder alongside the Bloody Wonder MkIII, and the Bloody Baron.
Last edited:
. I will continue with this design and post some beta plans soon if anyone wants to try it out a give feedback. It's a great fit for anyone who loves flying the FT Bloody Wonder but wants one with a slightly different look. The fuselage is the same as my 
