*Unofficial* Foam Wonder "NOOB"

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
Foam Wonder
The "NOOB"

Based on the original balsa wood design by Bruce Tharpe
NOOB Wonder concept inspired by Matthew Allen and Joseph Webb

Foam Board Conversion by: Dan Sponholz
Plans by: Dan Sponholz
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The Sig Wonder is a classic balsa wood and plywood, gas powered model that was designed by Bruce Tharpe in the early 90's and kitted by Sig Manufacturing. Many veteran modelers and RC pilots are familiar with this classic design. My goal in designing the foam board, electric version of the classic Wonder is to introduce this aircraft to a new generation of modelers, and re-introduce it to veteran modelers in a new, modernized, foam board, electric variant. If you like this model, please consider supporting Sig and purchasing and building the original balsa kit: Sig Wonder Kit

I have made every attempt to make this foam board conversion as true to the original Wonder as possible. The wing span, wing area, and control surfaces are very close to the original design.

While the balsa and foam board versions look very similar in appearance, there are a few significant differences. First, the original version has a bolt on style wing. I attempted many early prototypes with a rubber band wing mount, but due to the position of the horizontal stabilizer to the trailing edge of the wing, it was an awkward and ugly solution. I wanted to keep the build cost as low as possible using simple common materials, so I opted to permanently attach the wing. Second, with the wing permanently attached, I needed to add a battery hatch. In order to maintain the proper center of gravity, the battery hatch needed to be on the bottom of the aircraft. Third, while I did maintain the original symmetrical airfoil, to be able to maintain the wing tip shape I opted to use an under cambered wing tip common on many Flite Test designs. It also utilizes the faceted fold-over style foam board wing. And finally, with the change to the lighter foam board medium and all electric power system, the all-up-weight and wing loading are significantly reduced.

Specifications:
236273


3D Printed Accessories:
Firewall: https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?resources/standard-swappable-firewall.294/
Control Horn: https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?resources/short-control-horn.293/
Battery Tray (optional): https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?resources/foam-wonder-battery-tray.342/
Servo Mount (optional): https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?resources/servo-mount-single-9g.296/

Please Rate and Share:
If you download, build and enjoy this model, please do me a favor and rate this resource and share some photos and videos.

Thanks
-SP0NZ

Graphics:
Foam Wonder "NOOB" Graphics 1.0

SPEED BUILD KITS:
NOOB Wonder Kits are No Longer on Pre-order! Go order your own: https://www.thehangarrc.com/product/the-noob-wonder/

Flight Video:

Build Video (with flight footage)
 
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FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
This is an invitation to Post Your Builds, progress, and ask questions if you have any. Joe and I would love to see what you're putting together.
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
The Wonder is one of the least confusing builds I have had the pleasure of building. However, the only question I have hear more than once, is where do these parts go?
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As stated by a podcast Listener this is the answer:
Far left and upper left go above and below the firewall/motor mount. Top right is the rear stop/magnetic catch plate for the battery hatch. Bottom left is a fuselage bulkhead (look for where the side tabs slot into the fuselage). Bottom right is a doubler for the elevator servo mount.
 

Foamforce

Well-known member
I’m building one now and one thing I noticed is that there are optional naca ducts on the sides of the fuse, in front of the firewall. If you use those, you will have to glue in your firewall first because otherwise they block access. They’re of questionable value anyways because they vent to the front of the firewall. Also, I think the front and back lines of all three naca ducts are backwards. I think the front should have the scribe line and the bank should be the full cut line, right?

My fuse is almost done. It went together quite nicely. The plans are very precise. I’m looking forward to getting it in the air!
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
Naca ducts start small and get bigger. You are supposed to push the back end into the plane.
It always feels backwards to me to.

If it's the other way, itd be a scoop
3d-carbon-hood-scoop-overlay-2015-2021-subaru-wrx-sti-stickerfab-2_1200x1200.jpg


The NACA duct shape was determined to provide the least drag method for air intake.
 

Foamforce

Well-known member
Naca ducts start small and get bigger. You are supposed to push the back end into the plane.
It always feels backwards to me to.

If it's the other way, itd be a scoop
3d-carbon-hood-scoop-overlay-2015-2021-subaru-wrx-sti-stickerfab-2_1200x1200.jpg


The NACA duct shape was determined to provide the least drag method for air intake.

Yeah, I understand that, but when you cut it, the narrow side should only be cut partway through so you can bend it, and the wide side should be cut all the way through so you can push it in. The markings are reversed in the Noob plans. Compare the plans to the Bloody Wonder for example.

Thank you all again for putting out these nice plans!
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
The ducts are drawn incorrectly on the plans. The score cut is on the trailing edge, but should be on the lead edge.
Yeah, I understand that, but when you cut it, the narrow side should only be cut partway through so you can bend it, and the wide side should be cut all the way through so you can push it in. The markings are reversed in the Noob plans. Compare the plans to the Bloody Wonder for example.

Thank you all again for putting out these nice plans!
Excellent catch. I will chat with @SP0NZ about it.
 

SP0NZ

FT CAD Gremlin
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
Mentor
The ducts are drawn incorrectly on the plans. The score cut is on the trailing edge, but should be on the lead edge.
The ducts are all drawn as reference (green) lines on the plans. There are no score cuts depicted for the NACA ducts at all. Apologies for the confusion.
 

Foamforce

Well-known member
I finished and flew my Noob tonight. Fantastic plane! Fast, fairly acrobatic, very stable. I miss having a rudder sometimes, but not much. Landings are easy because you can come in fairly slow and flare it at the end, no broken props yet. Overall it’s joy to fly. I also towed a streamer with it tonight and it barely felt like it was there.

Question, how are the rest of you applying the decals? It can’t be vinyl cut because it has gradients. I’m planning to print it on a laser printer, modge podge it on, and cover it with packing tape. How are you all doing it?
 

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FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
I finished and flew my Noob tonight. Fantastic plane! Fast, fairly acrobatic, very stable. I miss having a rudder sometimes, but not much. Landings are easy because you can come in fairly slow and flare it at the end, no broken props yet. Overall it’s joy to fly. I also towed a streamer with it tonight and it barely felt like it was there.

Question, how are the rest of you applying the decals? It can’t be vinyl cut because it has gradients. I’m planning to print it on a laser printer, modge podge it on, and cover it with packing tape. How are you all doing it?
Thank you for the feedback @Foamforce.
I print my "decals" on paper (taping the big ones together) and then I spray glue the back. To be sure it doesn't lift, I will put clear tape over the top and beyond, to stick it well.

The color stripes on mine are just colored packing tape. Using experimental airlines method.
 

kdobson83

Well-known member
Thank you for the feedback @Foamforce.
I print my "decals" on paper (taping the big ones together) and then I spray glue the back. To be sure it doesn't lift, I will put clear tape over the top and beyond, to stick it well.

The color stripes on mine are just colored packing tape. Using experimental airlines method.
This is the exact same method I've been using on the last 7 or 8 builds I've done. While the plane is still in "kit form", I spray glue on the decals that I printed using a normal printer, print them, tape together just like normal plane plans if needed, then cut out with scissors. Then cover all parts that are on the outside of the plane with clear packing tape. Then build. Not only does this method make it water resistant but it adds tons of strength.
unnamed.jpg
 

L Edge

Master member
Thank you for the feedback @Foamforce.
I print my "decals" on paper (taping the big ones together) and then I spray glue the back. To be sure it doesn't lift, I will put clear tape over the top and beyond, to stick it well.

The color stripes on mine are just colored packing tape. Using experimental airlines method.

2 points about the packaging tape is:
1) Doesn't work well when Readi Board is black. The black foam color bleeds thru the packaging tape and it's color fades.
2) If you have a piece of flat glass(clean and dry) and lay strips of package tape on it and have razor blades or a sharp knife , you can cut out detailed designs and then if removed carefully, be applied to your plane.
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
Is anyone else Building the Noob Wonder?
I finished up the scheme on my son's wonder;
IMG_20230526_121027721.jpg
Joe and I continue to work on the 300% wonders, we are closing in on one being done.
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