*Unofficial* FT Simple Cub
- Thread starter SP0NZ
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- simple cub swappable trainer
tomlogan1
Elite member
FT Simple Cub Power Pod
On the build video, Josh shows the ESC under the power pod. He pushes the wires up into the pod but all the flight videos show the XT60 connector in the front under the pod. Is this a mod I missed or can you put the battery in the pod along with the receiver?
On the build video, Josh shows the ESC under the power pod. He pushes the wires up into the pod but all the flight videos show the XT60 connector in the front under the pod. Is this a mod I missed or can you put the battery in the pod along with the receiver?
tomlogan1
Elite member
Power pod v 2
Thanks for your response. While I was familiar with the pod from my Tiny Trainer, the instructions, note the video say to put the ESC on the bottom!
https://www.flitetest.com/articles/diy-ft-simple-cub-build
I guess it doesn't matter much but would the ESC on the bottom provide for better cooling?
I'm using a 40 Amp ESC I had laying around and don't want to make the the "Simple Torch"!
Thanks
Thanks for your response. While I was familiar with the pod from my Tiny Trainer, the instructions, note the video say to put the ESC on the bottom!
https://www.flitetest.com/articles/diy-ft-simple-cub-build
I guess it doesn't matter much but would the ESC on the bottom provide for better cooling?
I'm using a 40 Amp ESC I had laying around and don't want to make the the "Simple Torch"!
Thanks
mikeporterinmd
Still Learning
I ended putting the ESC on the bottom, and fairly far back on the pod. I have extra wire between the motor and the ESC. I also had to extend the battery connector wire. My battery mounts on the bottom of the fuselage, right against the landing gear. A 1300 Luminer balances nicely in there. I have a number of these for my quad, so that worked out well. By having the ESC fairly far back, it is near
the COG, and the throttle connector easily reaches the receiver. I mounted the receiver up high, near the COG and easily accessible via the wing saddle opening. I also needed to get the connector for battery voltage into the bottom of the receiver. I like getting that bit of telemetry.
Since I built mine so it can be a seaplane, everything had to be water resistant as well.
I used a bare foam doubler on the bottom of the fuselage where the battery sits. The velcro sticks to bare foam better than paper over foam. In my experience, the paper can come loose.
Still waiting to maiden. Maybe this week.
Mike
the COG, and the throttle connector easily reaches the receiver. I mounted the receiver up high, near the COG and easily accessible via the wing saddle opening. I also needed to get the connector for battery voltage into the bottom of the receiver. I like getting that bit of telemetry.
Since I built mine so it can be a seaplane, everything had to be water resistant as well.
I used a bare foam doubler on the bottom of the fuselage where the battery sits. The velcro sticks to bare foam better than paper over foam. In my experience, the paper can come loose.
Still waiting to maiden. Maybe this week.
Mike
wlouisharris2000
New member
Just checking, is this a 3 channel plane? I didn't see ailerons. I saw some guess pondering the power packs- 2s vs 3s. If I do build this going w/ 3s. I have had a few Flite Test planes that really suffered from lack of power and spent a lot of time fighting the plane. It's been a while since I built a plane but this one looks rather enticing.
mikeporterinmd
Still Learning
This is a 3S plane for sure. 4 channel is optional. If you go that route, check out the extras video for info on adding 4 channel stuff. The floats for making a sea plane are also covered in that video.
Mike
tomlogan1
Elite member
Alternate Motor for Simple Cub
The original motor spec, I believe, was an 1100Kv motor as a minimum.
I currently have a Turnigy 2826/10 1400Kv and a 2212/6T , 2200Kv no name motor.
I've looked at various charts and with an 8x4 prop it appears the 1400Kv will draw fewer amps and run nominally slower than the 2212.
I am leaning towards using the 2826/10 along with a 40 AMP ESC and just wanted to see if I am on the right track.
Thanks
The original motor spec, I believe, was an 1100Kv motor as a minimum.
I currently have a Turnigy 2826/10 1400Kv and a 2212/6T , 2200Kv no name motor.
I've looked at various charts and with an 8x4 prop it appears the 1400Kv will draw fewer amps and run nominally slower than the 2212.
I am leaning towards using the 2826/10 along with a 40 AMP ESC and just wanted to see if I am on the right track.
Thanks
BridgeInspector
Flite Test Groupie
Hannah made the FTSC during Flite Fest East 2017 for the "build night". She missed the chance to build with the super cool FTCC Podcast crew, but got to build with Josh Bixler and Jake Marshall instead.
We finished the electronics installation at our campsite and it was getting dark but we did a quick buddy box maiden. It went well until we lost radio control and it glided down softly. Quickly switched to a DSMX receiver to replace the DSM2 I had grabbed the first time (oops, not ideal at FF). Second flight went fantastic. Fun plane.
Here she is after the maiden (soft photo due to sunsetting)
She has plans to paint it blue with a NASA theme. We plan on flying it next while waiting on the eclipse at a club field next Monday.
We finished the electronics installation at our campsite and it was getting dark but we did a quick buddy box maiden. It went well until we lost radio control and it glided down softly. Quickly switched to a DSMX receiver to replace the DSM2 I had grabbed the first time (oops, not ideal at FF). Second flight went fantastic. Fun plane.
Here she is after the maiden (soft photo due to sunsetting)
She has plans to paint it blue with a NASA theme. We plan on flying it next while waiting on the eclipse at a club field next Monday.
tomlogan1
Elite member
Simple cub won't take off
Tried to maiden today. Cub's controls are all neutral. It will not takeoff. Applying 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and a little up elevator and the plane turns right. Taxiing on the ground it responds to rudder commands normally.
I have not tried to throw it as if it would not take off and had the tendency to turn to the right I did not want to risk having it crash.
Any ideas?
Tried to maiden today. Cub's controls are all neutral. It will not takeoff. Applying 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and a little up elevator and the plane turns right. Taxiing on the ground it responds to rudder commands normally.
I have not tried to throw it as if it would not take off and had the tendency to turn to the right I did not want to risk having it crash.
Any ideas?
BridgeInspector
Flite Test Groupie
Make sure your prop is on correctly. The numbers face forward.
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
Turning right?
Turning to me means that the wings tend to stay level and the nose turns right! Possible causes are motor thrust angle or rudder/vertical stab incidence. A minor turn tendency can be experienced if the wing is warped or has incidence differences right wing to left wing.
Rolling right!
this is where the left wing lifts and the right does not and this can cause the plane to appear to turn due to the drag of the main wheel still in contact with the ground. Normally this is attributable to differences in wing profiles or incidences from one wing to the other.
How to check for wing incidence issues.
Cut a piece of Scrap FB to have the wing upper surface profile from the LE to the TE and on the opposite edge to the profile a flat square cut edge.
With the profile gauge sitting one the wing upper surface use a level and adjust the plane tail height above the table or ground until the level indicates that the wing is level. then transfer the gauge to the same point on the opposite wing and check if the gauge still indicates that the wing is level. If there is a difference then the wing incidences are different and some repair work will be required.
With a little extra work and care in making the profile gauge you can also use it to check the tail incidence as well in the same manner.
Have fun!
revgregg65
Member
Any one using the Hextronik 24g 1300kv motors on the Simple Cub?
I'm planning on using one on my Simple Cub (building it soon hopefully). Probably throw a 8X4 slowfly prop on it (possibly a 9X3) with a 3s battery. Just wondering if it will be underpowered.
EDIT: it's actually the 1500kv version not the 1300.
I'm planning on using one on my Simple Cub (building it soon hopefully). Probably throw a 8X4 slowfly prop on it (possibly a 9X3) with a 3s battery. Just wondering if it will be underpowered.
EDIT: it's actually the 1500kv version not the 1300.
Last edited:
Fluburtur
Cardboard Boy
I finally got my Cubby flying (I named it "Baguette 1" because of the cardboard it's made off)
I would have saved me a lot of time and effort if I just read the recommended throws and settings but at last, it flies.
in this video im using 9x4.5 prop, 1000kv motor and 4s 2200mah battery (nah, not overkill at all)
I also have the orangerx gyro in it but I don't think it does much, ultimately I want to make this one a seaplane and trainer to teach other peoples.
I would have saved me a lot of time and effort if I just read the recommended throws and settings but at last, it flies.
in this video im using 9x4.5 prop, 1000kv motor and 4s 2200mah battery (nah, not overkill at all)
I also have the orangerx gyro in it but I don't think it does much, ultimately I want to make this one a seaplane and trainer to teach other peoples.
tomlogan1
Elite member
You win !
Turned out a bound wheel on the cub was the culprit. Just like a frozen bearing, the starboard wheel moved about 50% slower than the port wheel. When you would taxi it was not really an issue, but on takeoff once it got some speed up it would pivot on the starboard wheel. Took off the landing gear and reversed them and voila on takeoff it would pivot to the left.
Dropped the gear, gave it a toss and flew as I hoped.
Now comes the hard part, my DX5 has been replaced by a DX6E and I am trying to figure out dual rates and expos.
Probably not needed for a plane of this type, but something else to learn.
Thanks for you suggestion.
Turned out a bound wheel on the cub was the culprit. Just like a frozen bearing, the starboard wheel moved about 50% slower than the port wheel. When you would taxi it was not really an issue, but on takeoff once it got some speed up it would pivot on the starboard wheel. Took off the landing gear and reversed them and voila on takeoff it would pivot to the left.
Dropped the gear, gave it a toss and flew as I hoped.
Now comes the hard part, my DX5 has been replaced by a DX6E and I am trying to figure out dual rates and expos.
Probably not needed for a plane of this type, but something else to learn.
Thanks for you suggestion.
Shakeyjake
New member
A couple problems I ran into. The prop hitting the cowling horns with the new "B" motor and the wheels are too small. I ended up moving the power pod forward 1/4" and making my own wheels using foam board 3.5" disks cut with a homemade circle cutter and the wheels glued together and taped on the tread. They came out to 10 grams more than the 2.75" store bought wheels.
Attachments
I had this issue with the Bushwacker. I added a second layer of foam up against where the bottom and top meet. it keeps the wing from creasing at that spot you're noticing. In the bushwacker it was easy because the top of the fuse is wide open. In the cub, just glue the cut out foam from the opening you make to the bottom of the wing.
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