*Unofficial* FT Simple Scout

[rockyboy]

What paint did you use? Also, did you do any prep of the foam board?

Very interested in the prep / paint method used for the cool ribs. For my process, I sprayed Krylon primer down on the Water Resistant foam board before doing the top coat of the Ironlak Sugar spray paint for the color. I've had multiple success doing this on white DTFB, but things didn't go as good this time - multiple issues with paint lifting.

Some lifts were from masking tape - and I apply all masking tape to my t-shirt first before applying to the plane to reduce the adhesive power of the tape, but it still didn't work in all cases. Other times I left the masking paper template sitting on the plane just a little too long and the paint started to firm up stuck to the masking paper and started to peel up from the foam board.

The common point with all the peeling is the Krylon primer loses adhesion to the WR foam board and come up leaving clean WR foam board showing. So the next one of these I do will get a whole plane 320 grit sandpaper rub down to help the primer out.

 

[Forster]

Thanks, I'm finding the same exact issues with WP foam board. I'm in a build now and am planning on using Rustoleum without primer on WP board.

 

[rockyboy]

That's the foam board I'm using - Water Proof / Water Resistant / what FliteTest cuts their kits from these days. I had a couple small parts to paint last night and I roughed them up with 320 grit sandpaper before priming and the paint is sticking fantastic now. 100% recommend giving the WP foam board a quick sanding prior to paint

 

[kulens]

I've (re-)assembled the scout and had a test-flight last weekend.

I'm not using the (waterproofed) DTFB, but I'm using depron for my builds. Depron doesn't have a layer of paper on top. Once the plane is ready, I use the paper that is used to cover tables. This type of paper is very useful as it's absorbing water well.

So I soak the paper in water for a couple of second. Then I use (transparent) varnish (water based!) to paint both the depron and one side of the paper. As the paper has been soaked in water, it will not start rippling once you've added a layer of varnish.
Than a use the varnish to "glue" the paper on top of the depron. you will have bubbles of air in between the paper and the depron, so try to rub it gently to the sides, but don't worry if you still have small bubbles. As you haven't add varnish on the other side (the top-side) of the paper, while drying, the paper gets tight as the varnish becomes strong and it'll be smooth.

As the top-side of the paper hasn't been treated with varnish (yet), airbrushing it works brilliant. Once the plane is painted, I'm using that same varnish to cover the whole plane, so it's getting water-proofed and the paint is protected.

To get the "old-fashion" look of the ribs, I've used a lot of masking tape first to simulate the ribs. Than I've airbrushed the shadows of the ribs with dark brown paint. I've removed all the tape and painted the plan in light brown and white, on top of the dark shadow layer.

This is the result:

 

[JakeTheSloth]

Guys, I want to make 2 of these for my brothers to teach them how to fly planes with ailerons, I have few 1050mAh 3s batteries and I'm thinking about 2212 motors designed for drones (those are the cheapest I can get). Motors specs : 920KV, 2-3S. Prop size and thrust when powered by 3s lipo: APC9x6SF - 470g; APC10x4,7 - 680g; GP10x4,5 - 685g. Current is below 12A so I think the batteries will do, but won't motors be too weak for scout? I need your advice. You have flown these beauties and you'll know how much power they need I just want them to cruise around, I don't need pylon racers. Thanks in advance

 

[Forster]

It really depends on the thrust you can deliver. The Scout will fly on a B-pack and you're spinning enough prop (looks like either 10" prop would work) you should do fine.

 

[JakeTheSloth]

I bought two different motos - one that I described above and 2nd one that's a bit more powerful, 2212 1000KV. I'll give you some info how it went Clear skies for all of you

 

[Winglet]

I've (re-)assembled the scout and had a test-flight last weekend.

I'm not using the (waterproofed) DTFB, but I'm using depron for my builds. Depron doesn't have a layer of paper on top. Once the plane is ready, I use the paper that is used to cover tables. This type of paper is very useful as it's absorbing water well.

So I soak the paper in water for a couple of second. Then I use (transparent) varnish (water based!) to paint both the depron and one side of the paper. As the paper has been soaked in water, it will not start rippling once you've added a layer of varnish.
Than a use the varnish to "glue" the paper on top of the depron. you will have bubbles of air in between the paper and the depron, so try to rub it gently to the sides, but don't worry if you still have small bubbles. As you haven't add varnish on the other side (the top-side) of the paper, while drying, the paper gets tight as the varnish becomes strong and it'll be smooth.

As the top-side of the paper hasn't been treated with varnish (yet), airbrushing it works brilliant. Once the plane is painted, I'm using that same varnish to cover the whole plane, so it's getting water-proofed and the paint is protected.

To get the "old-fashion" look of the ribs, I've used a lot of masking tape first to simulate the ribs. Than I've airbrushed the shadows of the ribs with dark brown paint. I've removed all the tape and painted the plan in light brown and white, on top of the dark shadow layer.

This is the result:

View attachment 106894

View attachment 106895

View attachment 106896

View attachment 106897

This is a work of art. Beautiful job!!

 

[JakeTheSloth]

Here's mine - weaker motor gives it plenty of power to fly and make some maneouvers, it's really fun plane to make and fly. I've been flying it with 2200mAh 3s and 1050mAh 3s, it flies well with both of them, but I prefer 2200mAh because it's more wind resistant and gives the motor a boost you might need when it's stalling or when you want to make some stunts. I'm gonna build a second one I guess, but this time with Polish markings.

 

[kilroy07]

Well... With the last two builds shared, it almost makes me want to stop building.
Fantastic work both of you, certainly puts my builds to shame... I've only been at this since September last year, so maybe there's still hope for me...

 

[XDmToter]

I just have one question; Will it Knife Edge?

 

[bperc]

It flies great with floats too. It's such a versatile airplane.

 

[Gazoo]

Nice pic bperc!

 

[aelflyer]

Bperc, are you flying B pack or C pack (or equivalent) with those floats?

 

[FoamyDM]

I have just built this and finished just in time for the 4th of July.

I am always excited to have this fly and I have so much fun doing so. Aerobatics are easy, and with the reflective foil (dollar tree cellophane wrapping paper, Super77'd on)

I was able to film this with one hand, while I flew it with the other. As everyone here states, it is easy to fly, tracks true, and slows up well. I like the 2200mAh 3S for it's added wieght. I have had to reinforce the gear insert quite a bit for ground take offs.

If you are still on the fence about building this, don't be - it's easy to build and fly

 

[boscomonkey]

For the Simple Scout, can folks recommend motor/prop combination for use with 4S 1300mAh batteries? I have tons of these batteries from quadcopter flying and it would be great to be able to reuse them.

 

[d8veh]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/A22...lgo_pvid=d35e74be-98c6-4886-9d69-5b198abebe92
You can find them on Ebay, amazon and everywhere. The 10" prop is for 3S. with 4S, probably better to go with a 9" to keep the current down.

 

[Allister779]

It flies great with floats too. It's such a versatile airplane.

View attachment 108335

Did you make your own floats or will the Simple Cub floats work?

 

[bperc]

Did you make your own floats or will the Simple Cub floats work?

I use the Simple Cub floats.

 

[bperc]

Bperc, are you flying B pack or C pack (or equivalent) with those floats?

I use the C pack.