*Unofficial* Mini SE5 Biplane
- Thread starter SP0NZ
- Start date
Yup, I just stab them through both sides and the center wire supports. Stiffens things up a bunch. For bigger planes I'll often use a piece of wire hooked to the main gear down low instead of going through the foam. Stronger that way for the heavy stuff.
You can tie the wires together by using some copper threads from some electrical wire. Then you can either hot glue over the top of the wire thread wrap, or solder it.
And here's some off the water footage:
The SE5 does great off the water. I turned the throws all the way up for when I'm on the surface, then switch to low rates in the air. If you wanted to avoid that, a water rudder would be easy to install on these floats as that's how I originally planned to use them.
jaredstrees
Well-known member
Just placed my arrow on hold! This is the small plane I've been waiting for!
Hi All!
Here is a link to a zipped file that contains the Billy Bishop SE5 skins. Three PDF's:
FT Tiny SE5 BB V2.PDF - This is the 11X17 skins for the FT Mini SE5. There are 11 pages. I suggest Staples if you don't have an 11X17 printer at home or work. A 20lbs Bond paper works well.
FT Tiny SE5 - Exhaust Windscreen Headrest Billy Bishop.PDF - This is a letter sized page that contains the Complete exhaust system seen in the pics, the windshield and the headrest. I recommend a 80 or 60 lbs uncoated card stock. A home inkjet printer is fine. These are optional parts that can really give your SE5 some scale looks.
FT Mini SE5 Non Skinned Parts.PDF - These are the accessory parts that don't get skins including the FT version of the exhaust as well as guides and gauges. Black and white on whatever paper is cheapest.
This should keep you busy for a while!
The only thing missing right now is the Lewis gun for the top which will be coming soon!
Here is a link to a zipped file that contains the Billy Bishop SE5 skins. Three PDF's:
FT Tiny SE5 BB V2.PDF - This is the 11X17 skins for the FT Mini SE5. There are 11 pages. I suggest Staples if you don't have an 11X17 printer at home or work. A 20lbs Bond paper works well.
FT Tiny SE5 - Exhaust Windscreen Headrest Billy Bishop.PDF - This is a letter sized page that contains the Complete exhaust system seen in the pics, the windshield and the headrest. I recommend a 80 or 60 lbs uncoated card stock. A home inkjet printer is fine. These are optional parts that can really give your SE5 some scale looks.
FT Mini SE5 Non Skinned Parts.PDF - These are the accessory parts that don't get skins including the FT version of the exhaust as well as guides and gauges. Black and white on whatever paper is cheapest.
This should keep you busy for a while!
The only thing missing right now is the Lewis gun for the top which will be coming soon!
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T-Richard
Active member
Nice plane! I look forward to plans for floats, i'd use that, snow looks like its here to stay out here
Should do great in snow. I've been flying them off the grass in my yard, so if it'l do that, should fly off anything.
Here's the plans:
WWI Mighty Mini Floats - Beta v.1
These work equally well on both the SE5 and the DR1 triplane.
I didn't take any pictures of the tail float.
Oh well. It's the same process, just smaller and simpler.Remove paper, bevel, and pre bend the foam a bit so that the curves match.
Glue in the side pieces one at a time.
Fold over the top piece and glue down.
Insert a wire support and make score cut through it in line with the top of the float.
Remove foam at the score cut.
Fold over and glue.
Seal it up with some hot glue. Wire for gear is inserted down into the wire support piece.
Stabbed a couple BBQ skewers through the main floats and sealed them in with hot glue before attaching the wire struts. Wire struts are fitted to the fuselage very simply by making a couple cuts horizontally (red line on picture) along the bottom of the fuselage. The tail float was installed with 3 short pieces of BBQ skewer. I stabbed them into the tail of the plane first, then made holes in the float inline with the skewers.
You don't need to have a servo on both the upper and lower wings to get ailerons on both. Just add another set of of servo horns to the ailerons and run a wire from the top aileron to the bottom one.
Couldn't quickly find any pictures but if you look at the beginning of this video you'll see the extra horns and wire setup. I'll see if I can find a better pic, but it's pretty simple.
Several Models of the Beechcraft Staggerwing had ailerons only on top (flaps were on the bottom). Been done before, and a major aircraft manufacturer put real lives "at risk" on a well loved design, so you're probably fine (with or without the slave-struts between the ailerons).
It'll put a touch more stress on the main struts holding the top wing on, but if it's strong enough to hold part of the plane on, it should be strong enough to twist the plane around in the air.
As for "fly weird", well, maybe but probably not more than the typical "unique character" every plane has -- Shouldn't be much different from a typical high-wing's aileron behavior.
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RC Sea Foam Guy
Member
Getting ready to cut out my parts, but I am not a fan of using poster board on the top deck.
Anyone got advice on using FTFB instead? Pro/Con? ...
Anyone got advice on using FTFB instead? Pro/Con? ...
Getting ready to cut out my parts, but I am not a fan of using poster board on the top deck.
Anyone got advice on using FTFB instead? Pro/Con? ...
Strip the paper, use a touch of heat and take your time.
It thermal-forms well (got any steam pipes handy?) so a touch of warmth makes the bends go easier. Worst thing that can happen is it cracks because you bent too far, too fast, too cold -- the cost is you've got to cut another piece. Just relax and work your way up to the right amount of curve.
SE5 issues
I built this little critter and expected it to fly like my mini Guinea or FT spitfire. It don't. CG is right on the fold of the top wing, but it only flies at 100% throttle and very steep angle of attack, right at the edge of stall. Letting off the throttle or elevator makes it a lawn dart. If it only flew half as good as it looks...
I built this little critter and expected it to fly like my mini Guinea or FT spitfire. It don't. CG is right on the fold of the top wing, but it only flies at 100% throttle and very steep angle of attack, right at the edge of stall. Letting off the throttle or elevator makes it a lawn dart. If it only flew half as good as it looks...
Well, it's not going to fly like the Spitfire or Guinea, 3 channel lightweight planes like this will have a completely different feel. That doesn't mean it's bad though. I've built two and they both fly excellent.
Got any pictures of your build? Sounds like something is way off.
It's hard to make an under camber plane like this not fly without some big wing or tail misalignment.
What's your motor angle look like?
mikeporterinmd
Still Learning
Prop orientation?
jaredstrees
Well-known member
Ready for maiden! Needs a few more details and some larger wheels, but she'll go up tomorrow!
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jaredstrees
Well-known member
She flew great. Speeds up nice but can fly slow enough to almost walk behind! Thanks Flite Test, I've been hunting for a small biplane and this one is great! Sorry about the upside down picture, everyone, it was late and tired!
That's upside down? I just figured she flew that well
Congrats on the successful maiden!
It sounds like you have your prop on backwards. Make sure that the numbers on the prop are facing forward.
FlyingDebris
rc noob
Bit off topic
Bit off topic but how do you paint ft planes. Cause I built a ripslinger and I want to paint it
Bit off topic but how do you paint ft planes. Cause I built a ripslinger and I want to paint it
