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V-Tail Quad - BUILD

fliteadmin

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
#1

The V-tail motor mounts are available in out web store. As is the single piece landing gear and the tab kit that transforms the Replacement Delrin - Straight 13-370 into a landing gear.



The original V-Tail quad featured in the Bat Bone episode.

The motor mounts were made from aluminium that were drilled and bent to 40°.

It was difficult to get the angles identical.

So we made this 40° V-Tail motor mount kit


Simply glue together


The motors used in this build are the SK3 - 2822 - 1275kV

The motor mounts simply squeeze onto the 1/2" booms

Perfect angles every time.

The Bat Bone frame needs to be modified to accomidate for the dual tail setup.


The Any Copter can also, very easily be made into a V-Tail Quad.

The two tail booms mounted. The frame can still be used as a normal tricopter after the modification.

Front arms in place.

The tab kit transforms the Replacement Delrin - Straight 13-370 into a landing gear.


The Single piece landing gear is really tough and can be used on both 1/2" and 10mm booms.

Electonics mounted.

David shows in the video how to set up the KK2 board.

He also shows how to do the first flight adjustments.








Settings used:


Stick scaling:


  • Roll: 45
  • Pitch: 45
  • Taw: 60
  • Throttle:90
Gains:

  • Roll and pitch
  • P Gain: 42
  • P Limit: 100
  • I Gain: 23
  • I Limit: 20
  • Yaw:
  • P Gain: 50
  • P Limit: 20
  • I Gain: 50
  • I Limit: 10
Motor Mixer:

  • Channel 3 and 4
  • Throttle: 100
  • Aileron: 0
  • Elevator: -90 / 90
  • Rudder: 100 / - 100
  • Offset: 0

Gear used:


 

Johan

Senior Member
#2
These motors with a GoPro

First of all, great episode once again!

David mentions something along the lines of "I would'nt use these motors with a GoPro", is that because they're not powerful enough in that case?
And would that also go for non-acrobatic (hovering photoshoot) style of flying?

I have the exact same motors and was intending to use them for that purpose (that is, once I'm comfortable enough flying...)
 
Last edited:

OutcastZeroOne

Fly, yes... Land, no
#3
Im sure they could lift the "V"-tail with the GoPro, but they may not be powerfull enough to help get out of trouble. Build one, stick on something the same weight as a gopro and see if it works. It may just be a case of being to slow to manuver. Should still be fun as a non-video set up till you get the more powerfull motors in your hands. Worst case you get in some good practice with a weaker set up before stepping up to a more powerfull one.
 

Johan

Senior Member
#4
Thanks,

yes, that is a good idea, use a dummy gopro before trying the real deal. Have to get familiar with it first, so I'm in no hurry.
Of course there is the needed headroom for the flight controller to correct that might exceed the nominal specs for just hovering in perfect conditions
You're right a motor / ESC upgrade when necessary is always an option further down the line. Have to practice a lot first anyway.
 
#5
Is there a noticeable efficiency loss since the rear rotors are not pointing straight down in a hover? It would be kind of interesting to see if you get less flight time compared to an identically equipped traditional quad rotor. Maybe somebody can test it with the anyrotor hub :)
 

happyal

Junior Member
#6
Great video, I really enjoyed watching it and was happy that you showed us the setup tips for the board.

Is there any chance you can make the V-Tail Bat a full kit for sale on your website?

Also is this a good first multicoper?
 

FlyingMonkey

Stuck in Sunny FL
Staff member
Admin
#7
First of all, great episode once again!

David mentions something along the lines of "I would'nt use these motors with a GoPro", is that because they're not powerful enough in that case?
And would that also go for non-acrobatic (hovering photoshoot) style of flying?

I have the exact same motors and was intending to use them for that purpose (that is, once I'm comfortable enough flying...)

Yeah, why not?
 

Heli-Yeah!

Gremlin on the Wing
#11
Assuming he is using the 1/2" x 10" (roughly 13mmx 25.5cm) arms available in there store, and he then said he shortened the front by 4cm (roughly 1 1/2"), so I would guess about 10" on the back, and 8 1/2" on the front.

Actually there are no "requirements" for any arm length. I encourage anyone to experiment with arm lengths, V angles, and all other elements of your multi design. It will make you a more proficient builder in the future, as well as provide a better understanding of just how versatile the designs of these things can be.
 
#12
Does anyone know what props could be used it you used 9" in the front and 8" for the rear? Do they have to be the same pitch? I was thinking about using the NTM 28-26 setup with 8x4.5 rear and 9x4.7 front. Any suggestions or reasons that would not work? My only concern is I know that the tail already has reduced thrust, so putting a slightly lower pitch on the back might add to that problem? Also, is it necessary to flash turnigy plush ESCs for a quad? I know it is better to, but is it necessary?
 
#13
David,

Super job describing the build and the subsequent flying.

I saw you demonstrate the V-Tail on the Bat Bone video, FPV flying through the abandoned factory with apparent ease. How is it you were able to control the V-Tail so precisely using the KK2 board for FPV?? What were your KK2 settings for flying on that show?
I'm an intermediate heli flyer. I'm flying my first multicopter (Simple T-Copter) that I built myself using the KK2 and am trying to learn to fly FPV with it. I'm getting the hang of flying without goggles (i.e., non-FPV). But, with goggles, every flight is a cliff hanger! I'm now planning to update the KK by switching to an APM or similar platform in order to have more stable flights. Also, autonomous flight with the mission planner looks awesome.
 
#15
I finished building mine Sunday night and I've got to say, I love it. It flies much better than my last attempts at a multirotor. I think the KK2 boards definitely has something to do with it. Previously, I was using the I86 board and it was nowhere near as stable as the KK2. I got the autolevel pretty well dialed in. The only thing I've noticed is that no matter how much I adjust the autolevel trim, it still wants to float forward. That could be a CG issue though. Anyone know where this should balance out at? Other than this thing is amazing. Can't wait to get the FPV gear on it! Thanks flitetest for all the amazing builds. I definitely could not afford this hobby if it wasn't for you guys. I have built so many planes and I think I might have spent the price of one plane from a local shop.
 
#16
The reason why you have forward drift in autolevel mode:
Posted in comments by andyshen in this article - http://flitetest.com/articles/custom-bat-bone-build

"The rear motors provide a bit of forward thrust because of the way they're angled (the arms are splayed out a bit). So to hold a hover it has to be angled back a touch to resist that thrust. VTails where the motors are angled on a line parallel to the fore/aft axis don't have this problem. (I think)"

So - if you want a perfect hover, the v-tail quad will have to 'drop' it's tail a bit to hold position. You could try to hover perfectly still in acro mode and get an idea of just how much the tail needs to sagg, then when you do your acc calibration for the KK2, instead of putting the quad perfectly horizontally flat, you can prop the front legs up to recreate the attitude at which the quad would hold a hover - the resulting autolevel calibration should be much closer to perfect and your trims will be able to fine tune it just right. ...that's how I understand it anyways.
 
#18
I almost have all my parts to build my first v-tail quad using the FT anycopter hub and FT v-tail motor mounts.
However is there an advantage having the motors pitching inward versus pitching outward?
 

JAG

New member
#19
Anyone know of the setup recommended in the first post can carry extra weight like a GoPro? Or would you need a different motor/ESC combo?