What did you crash today

[Foamforce]

Reading through this thread is so therapeutic. Just seeing everyone else going through the same thing and then getting right back into it. You all make me feel better about my crash!

 

[Bricks]

I came back cause it was a brain fart sorry for the mistake.

 

[danskis]

@Inq - that looks like a great plane and the perfect motor for it. Can't wait to see it printed.

 

[Foamforce]

New nose, patch on rear of wing, patch on front of fuselage, one new nacelle, other nacelle glued… that’s all I can remember. Ready to re-maiden!

Oh, and I have to try to figure out why I lost my signal. I guess that’s the hardest part.

 

[FlyerInStyle]

New nose, patch on rear of wing, patch on front of fuselage, one new nacelle, other nacelle glued… that’s all I can remember. Ready to re-maiden!

Oh, and I have to try to figure out why I lost my signal. I guess that’s the hardest part.

what transmitter and receiver were you using? also what was happening when you lost signal?

 

[Inq]

So, the only difference with an x-mount motor is the little x-shaped bracket that is wider than the motor itself.
View attachment 232766 View attachment 232767
The bracket screws to the back of the motor and then you screw the bracket onto the firewall. Without the x-mount you need access to the back of the firewall to screw through the firewall directly into the motor. That's all; neither style is inherently better or worse.

I see no reason not to go with the motor 3D lab print suggests, so long as it meets the criteria for your setup. (voltage, amperage, thrust, prop size, etc). I don't remember what plane you said this is for, was it the Storch?

Motor Mount - These 2212's all come with the aluminum X-mount you're describing. So far, I've been fine with the mounting from the rear and not using the extra X-piece. Are you saying that this big 530W motor uses the same (or different) pattern as either the back of the 2212 or this X-mount or something totally different. It seems like the FW plans 3D prints support either style... especially since they recommend this motor.

Trainer - Yes, I chose the Storch as my trainer after a less than successful stint with the 3DLabPrint J-3 Cub. I'm going to retry flying it with the same 2212, 1000KV, 10x4.5 prop combination with the new found power after learning about calibrating... 47% more power might be enough and save the big motor for a later purchase.

 

[Inq]

@Inq - that looks like a great plane and the perfect motor for it. Can't wait to see it printed.

Much of it has been printed, but it is WAY above my flying ability at the moment, so it is merely used for day-dreaming so far. This is the Ta 152 H version with high aspect wings for high-altitude. The scaled version is 48 inch wingspan. I'll keep this one light without landing gear to use as a more advanced trainer.

Later, I want to also build their Ta 152 C version with the clipped wings (38") that I'll build a little stouter and put retracts, flaps and a big honk'n motor on it. I'd also like to try my hand at designing some reduction gears and swinging a scale 3-bladed, paddle prop... 12" diameter.

 

[Foamforce]

what transmitter and receiver were you using? also what was happening when you lost signal?

My transmitter is a FlySky i6x. The receiver is a FlySky ia6b. I’ve never really thought about range before. I’ve only had the signal alarm beep at me a couple times in the past and I’ve flown way out so that I could barely see the plane. In this case I had just taken off and was about 50 feet up. My transmitter started beeping at me (low signal alarm) so I started turning around to come back, but part way into my turn I lost all connection. I didn’t have any failsafes turned on, so it stayed in the turn with the motors on and descended to the left and crashed. I <think> that’s what happened.

I was running two 2.2ah 3 cell batteries in parallel. Both fully charged but different brands. My motors and power packs are the Flite Test radial C packs with 40a ESCs. The positive wire on one of the ESCs is disconnected per the FT video. I’m using four nine gram servos and a fifth for the door.

We’ve had signal issues out past the left side of our runway before. The closest houses are about 1000 feet away on that side and they are much further away in every other direction. I suspect that maybe somebody has a really powerful router maybe. However, when I lost signal yesterday, it was closer than where we’ve seen issues before.

I definitely wasn’t thinking about my antennae orientation and was probable pointing it directly at the plane. I’ve always done that and never had a problem before, but maybe that was a contributing factor. I’ll try to keep my radio up next time.

I also wonder if my receiver antennae was part of the problem. Here’s a photo of how it’s arranged in the plane. This is on the drivers side of the plane. After reading up on them, I think maybe putting them both on the floor of the plane at 90 degree angles to each other might be more effective. Also, I read that I need to separate them more.

What do you think? Are any of my theories on the right track? Thanks!

 

[MrKilometer]

I've had similar issues on an eFlite Mustang, and the solution was taping the reciever antennas on the outside of the fuselage. This was right before I built my Guinea Pig, so I was wary of the same thing happening on that plane. I ended up mounting the reciever on the underside of the wing, and it's worked great (the reciever is a Spektrum model). Having the least amount of objects between you and the reciever will give you the best signal, so I would try attaching the antennas on the outside of the fuselage, or moving the reciever. Also, you're definitely on the right track about separating the antennas; I usually have mine secured on either side of the reciever at a 180 degree angle to each other. Hope this helps!

 

[Inq]

I usually have mine secured on either side of the reciever at a 180 degree angle to each other. Hope this helps!

I may be wrong (I'm new at this), but I've read you are supposed to put them at 90° to each other so that you always have one perpendicular to the transmitter. If you have them 180°, you should have a dead spot and limited range when the transmitter is in line with your pair of antennas. BUT - let the experts weigh in.

 

[FlyerInStyle]

My transmitter is a FlySky i6x. The receiver is a FlySky ia6b. I’ve never really thought about range before. I’ve only had the signal alarm beep at me a couple times in the past and I’ve flown way out so that I could barely see the plane. In this case I had just taken off and was about 50 feet up. My transmitter started beeping at me (low signal alarm) so I started turning around to come back, but part way into my turn I lost all connection. I didn’t have any failsafes turned on, so it stayed in the turn with the motors on and descended to the left and crashed. I <think> that’s what happened.

I was running two 2.2ah 3 cell batteries in parallel. Both fully charged but different brands. My motors and power packs are the Flite Test radial C packs with 40a ESCs. The positive wire on one of the ESCs is disconnected per the FT video. I’m using four nine gram servos and a fifth for the door.

We’ve had signal issues out past the left side of our runway before. The closest houses are about 1000 feet away on that side and they are much further away in every other direction. I suspect that maybe somebody has a really powerful router maybe. However, when I lost signal yesterday, it was closer than where we’ve seen issues before.

I definitely wasn’t thinking about my antennae orientation and was probable pointing it directly at the plane. I’ve always done that and never had a problem before, but maybe that was a contributing factor. I’ll try to keep my radio up next time.

I also wonder if my receiver antennae was part of the problem. Here’s a photo of how it’s arranged in the plane. This is on the drivers side of the plane. After reading up on them, I think maybe putting them both on the floor of the plane at 90 degree angles to each other might be more effective. Also, I read that I need to separate them more.

What do you think? Are any of my theories on the right track? Thanks!

If you are running more than 4 servos, put both esc wires in. THe fsia6b can handle it, and it might have caused the bec to cut out if it draws too much current. Also, if htere is a house even close, using 2.4ghz wifi it messes with the flysky systems a lot. Also, try putting your antennas 90 degrees to each other.

 

[Foamforce]

If you are running more than 4 servos, put both esc wires in. THe fsia6b can handle it, and it might have caused the bec to cut out if it draws too much current. Also, if htere is a house even close, using 2.4ghz wifi it messes with the flysky systems a lot. Also, try putting your antennas 90 degrees to each other.

The FT 40 amp ESCs have 5 amp BECs, so that ought to handle it. Still, I could give it a shot. Do you know whether the FT ESCs have linear BECs? In their video on differential thrust, FT said to only connect the two BECs if you were sure that they had linear BECs and it doesn’t say so on the listing.

My antennae were already at 90 degrees, but I’m going to try to orient them both horizontally (at 90 to each other still) instead of one horizontal and one vertical. I was imagining the donut of reception and that seems like it would give the best coverage. How do you do yours? Have a pic?

 

[Tench745]

Motor Mount - These 2212's all come with the aluminum X-mount you're describing. So far, I've been fine with the mounting from the rear and not using the extra X-piece. Are you saying that this big 530W motor uses the same (or different) pattern as either the back of the 2212 or this X-mount or something totally different. It seems like the FW plans 3D prints support either style... especially since they recommend this motor.

Trainer - Yes, I chose the Storch as my trainer after a less than successful stint with the 3DLabPrint J-3 Cub. I'm going to retry flying it with the same 2212, 1000KV, 10x4.5 prop combination with the new found power after learning about calibrating... 47% more power might be enough and save the big motor for a later purchase.[/QUOTE]

Trainer: From what I understand, the Storch should fly just fine on that motor/prop combo. Calibration is key!

Motor Mount: There's no reason to use the X-mount if you're happy with the way you've been doing things. The big motor will have holes in the back for mounting screws just like the 2212s do. The hole spacing may be different, but it works the same.
I like using x-mounts because I don't always have good access to the back of the firewall in my builds and because it gives a little larger footprint for the mounting screws.

 

[Inq]

Motor Mount: There's no reason to use the X-mount if you're happy with the way you've been doing things. The big motor will have holes in the back for mounting screws just like the 2212s do. The hole spacing may be different, but it works the same.
I like using x-mounts because I don't always have good access to the back of the firewall in my builds and because it gives a little larger footprint for the mounting screws.

I should look into incorporating the aluminum X-mount also. I noted in my motor thrust testing the plastic compressed behind the motor and caused the bolts to be a little looser than when I tightened them. I'd hope beside making it mounted from the front, that it might dissipate some heat before reaching the plastic.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Tench745]

I should look into incorporating the aluminum X-mount also. I noted in my motor thrust testing the plastic compressed behind the motor and caused the bolts to be a little looser than when I tightened them. I'd hope beside making it mounted from the front, that it might dissipate some heat before reaching the plastic.

Thanks for your input.

Happy to input! It's something to experiment with at the very least.

 

[danskis]

Another reason to use the X mount is that it is (typically) easier to put washers behind the top screws in order to achieve the optimum thrust angle for the plane. Typically a warbird needs down/right thrust which is achieved by putting washers between the X mount and the firewall. For example, one on the upper right and two on the upper left. Your printed plane might have that designed into the printed firewall. And some flight test planes have that built in the swappable mount. I don't use the swappable mount so I like the X mount to play with the thrust line. Especially on the swapable Spitfire. The Spitfire is a great first warbird BTW.

I've had huge luck with FlySky and rarely dropped a signal.

 

[Inq]

Another reason to use the X mount is that it is (typically) easier to put washers behind the top screws in order to achieve the optimum thrust angle for the plane. Typically a warbird needs down/right thrust which is achieved by putting washers between the X mount and the firewall. For example, one on the upper right and two on the upper left. Your printed plane might have that designed into the printed firewall. And some flight test planes have that built in the swappable mount. I don't use the swappable mount so I like the X mount to play with the thrust line. Especially on the swapable Spitfire. The Spitfire is a great first warbird BTW.

I've had huge luck with FlySky and rarely dropped a signal.

I'll give the washer solution a try.

My first "adult" film my Dad took me to see at the theaters was the "Battle of Britain". Spitfire is my absolute favorite plane even though he flew F-8 Crusaders. As can be seen, I started out at the wrong end of the flying spectrum and have backed up to a Storch.

 

[XSrcing]

Tried to maiden this during my lunch break today. Threw it. It went up. No elevator control. Stuffed in the dirt and broke nose off. Glued nose back on, plugged in battery, and everything is working and CG is bang on.

Gonna do it again tomorrow.

 

[Piotrsko]

Umm you do test controls just before you toss it?

 

[XSrcing]

Umm you do test controls just before you toss it?

Yes. And the subsequent flight without changing anything was great!

Turns out the battery had a bum cell. I browned out right in to the dirt.