What Did You Fly Today

Tench745

Master member
What about a Saber-class?
I did a resin model of the Saber class a while back. Could be fun to buzz around with a foam one.
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Hoomi

Master member

Wildthing

Legendary member
Battery question, Im looking to buy a 4 cell. will a 4 cell 3300 Mah run longer than a 3300 3 cell ? i usually use 3300 3 cell in most my large planes so i guess what im asking is to fly the same amount of time as my 3 cell what size 4 cell should i buy ?
Well that will depend on what motor and prop you will be running and even if it is the same motor but different prop will it be pulling more amps? I find I get roughly the same but usually less time because of the extra power I tend to have a lead foot so fuel mileage goes right to crapp. :D
 

TheFlyingBrit

Legendary member

Wildthing

Legendary member
Battery question, Im looking to buy a 4 cell. will a 4 cell 3300 Mah run longer than a 3300 3 cell ? i usually use 3300 3 cell in most my large planes so i guess what im asking is to fly the same amount of time as my 3 cell what size 4 cell should i buy ?
Oh and the other thing is the weight of the battery is going to be quite heavier so that will affect your mileage also.
 

Wildthing

Legendary member
i bought a motor and ESC that requires a 4s , didn't know it ill after i bought it. now wishing i had stuck to the 3s.
You should be safe on running 3S then with a larger prop especially the motor, I have never had a esc where I couldn't go down in cells on it but I have a few that are 3S or smaller but can't go up to 4S .
 

sundown57

Legendary member
i tried to run it on the 3s , it just chattered. I read the description after i bought it and it said 4s. maybe its just the esc ? ill try the motor only on an esc i know works. thanks
 
I tried to maiden my Pizza Box flying wing, made in accordance to plans and a video by Josh Bixler. Unfortunately, I was totally unsuccessful. It would just nose over and crash, often flipping upside down in the process. I know these things can fly well, so I must be doing something wrong.

I'm using a 2400KV motor with a 850mah 3S battery, and a 3-inch, 3-blade prop (as used in the build video.) I put a strip of Velcro on the bottom of the plane as long as I could, and tried various positions for the battery, but no luck.

Here is the build video. https://www.flitetest.com/articles/flying-wing-made-from-a-cardboard-pizza-box

... and here's an article about the Pizza Box flying wing with a link to the plans: https://www.flitetest.com/articles/flying-wing-made-from-a-cardboard-pizza-box

Any suggestions? Many thanks!
 

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TheFlyingBrit

Legendary member
CG is critical on all planes for a succesful flight. However, Wings aren't very forgiving, I have learn't from experience with my Versa wing.
Battery placement, reflex angle on the elevons play an important part. I also learnt that the motor speed when launching can have a dramatic impact particularly on a plane thats not been trimmed.
My Versa wing took me 4 initial flights to get it flying just how I wanted it. I found the best method was to launch it and fly it around in a small circuit, how it behaved under power and on gliding approach, would determined my adjustments prior to the next flight.
Dont be affraid to add extra weight if the battery alone can't give you the correct CG balance point.
Stick with it, you can learn more trying to get a cheap hand built plane to fly than with an expensive pre built model :)
 
CG is critical on all planes for a succesful flight. However, Wings aren't very forgiving, I have learn't from experience with my Versa wing.
Battery placement, reflex angle on the elevons play an important part. I also learnt that the motor speed when launching can have a dramatic impact particularly on a plane thats not been trimmed.
My Versa wing took me 4 initial flights to get it flying just how I wanted it. I found the best method was to launch it and fly it around in a small circuit, how it behaved under power and on gliding approach, would determined my adjustments prior to the next flight.
Dont be affraid to add extra weight if the battery alone can't give you the correct CG balance point.
Stick with it, you can learn more trying to get a cheap hand built plane to fly than with an expensive pre built model :)

Hi Ian, thanks for your very quick response, your excellent advice, and your encouragement!

I think I'll put the Pizza Box flyer aside for a moment - I don't know where the CG should be - any suggestions?

I have also just about finished an FT Simple Scout - just waiting for linkage stoppers to arrive on Monday to hook up the aileron servos (and also some decent weather - it's too cold and too windy today and next few days.) and I will maiden it.

[you can learn more trying to get a cheap hand built plane to fly than with an expensive pre built model]

You are so right. I joined an RC club, and many members suggested I buy a Turbo Timber (about $300) for my first plane. I flew it once or twice (not well,) then managed to auger it in for a spectacular crash. At that moment, I knew that my future would be $40-or-less foamies. I've so far built an FT Explorer - good flyer, and now the FT Simple Scout. Here's a photo of the Scout.

CHeers!
 

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One tip try a 2s battery you may need to swap the prop for something slightly bigger :unsure: it might give you a slower flight characteristic and more chance to react to how its behaving, plus go for a 2 blade prop this time.

Thanks again, Ian! I like the idea of large 2-blade (I think I can trim the ailerons a bit and fit a 5-inch prop) and a 2S battery.

Cheers!