Which Biplane?

[RustySocket]

What size of biplane are you looking to do? Welcome to the forums BTW

My intent with this endeavor into foam board planes is to be able to build while travelling in our RV. Because of space limitations I intend to stick with the smaller planes. The precut ones are listed as "mini" in the store, I believe. In the past I've built peanut scale free flight when travelling, but I thought it would be fun to try something different this year.

I have decided to start with the Baby Blender first. I figured out the scaling and how to properly print tiled plans. My better half picked me up 10 sheets of foam board and I've begun the process of cutting out all the parts. Takes me back to the early 80's when I first started scratch building from RCM magazine plans.

I've fiddled with electrics a few times over the years so I need to dig around and see what I have with respect to esc's and will also need to research motors and batteries. I'll need to get a few things ordered in the next week or so and get this one in the air.

I appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions in the thread as well as the welcome and am looking forward to trying both the mini scout and a DR1 too.

Thanks again.

 

[BATTLEAXE]

My intent with this endeavor into foam board planes is to be able to build while travelling in our RV. Because of space limitations I intend to stick with the smaller planes. The precut ones are listed as "mini" in the store, I believe. In the past I've built peanut scale free flight when travelling, but I thought it would be fun to try something different this year.

I have decided to start with the Baby Blender first. I figured out the scaling and how to properly print tiled plans. My better half picked me up 10 sheets of foam board and I've begun the process of cutting out all the parts. Takes me back to the early 80's when I first started scratch building from RCM magazine plans.

I've fiddled with electrics a few times over the years so I need to dig around and see what I have with respect to esc's and will also need to research motors and batteries. I'll need to get a few things ordered in the next week or so and get this one in the air.

I appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions in the thread as well as the welcome and am looking forward to trying both the mini scout and a DR1 too.

Thanks again.

The Baby Blender is a great plane, what did you scale it down to?

 

[RustySocket]

The Baby Blender is a great plane, what did you scale it down to?

In this case what I meant was that I figured out how to get my printer settings proper so that the plans were printed as they were intended(1" actually measures 1"). I didn't change the actual scale of the plane.

 

[BATTLEAXE]

In this case what I meant was that I figured out how to get my printer settings proper so that the plans were printed as they were intended(1" actually measures 1"). I didn't change the actual scale of the plane.

I know I had a lot of fun with my BB and if built right it will last awhile. The big thing I would say is that with the FB struts and cabanas that hold the top wing on aren't very solid, first hit to the ground and the top wing will either be wobbly or rip off completely. I built my struts with BBQ skewers, I have cartwheeled this a couple times and never had to fix or re-glue the wing at all

 

[RustySocket]

I know I had a lot of fun with my BB and if built right it will last awhile. The big thing I would say is that with the FB struts and cabanas that hold the top wing on aren't very solid, first hit to the ground and the top wing will either be wobbly or rip off completely. I built my struts with BBQ skewers, I have cartwheeled this a couple times and never had to fix or re-glue the wing at all View attachment 154317

Looks like something to take into consideration. I already have the bamboo to do something like this. Did you do anything inside the fuse and wing to add support material or are they just glued into the single layer of FB?

 

[BATTLEAXE]

Did you do anything inside the fuse and wing to add support material or are they just glued into the single layer of FB?

If I remember correctly and I think you can see it in the pic that the sides are already double layered, that should be enough. I know in the build I didn't do anything to anticipate using skewers. I know when I did assemble the struts on the outside I used the original FB strut as a template, then glued the skewers onto the template on the last 3/4" on either side of the trimmed skewers and then cut off the center section of the templates to get the top and base plates of the final strut, just to keep the same shape and still have the center open.

The cabanes are pretty much self explanatory, I trimmed them to fit plus added a half inch on either side to poke into the FB of the wing and the fuse. I wanted to maintain strength in the law of triangles from all directions. The centre angled skewers on the struts front to back, the cabanes are angled wider at the wing then the fuse, obviously the long ones hold square side to side, just like a full scale biplane.

 

[RustySocket]

If I remember correctly and I think you can see it in the pic that the sides are already double layered, that should be enough. I know in the build I didn't do anything to anticipate using skewers. I know when I did assemble the struts on the outside I used the original FB strut as a template, then glued the skewers onto the template on the last 3/4" on either side of the trimmed skewers and then cut off the center section of the templates to get the top and base plates of the final strut, just to keep the same shape and still have the center open.

The cabanes are pretty much self explanatory, I trimmed them to fit plus added a half inch on either side to poke into the FB of the wing and the fuse. I wanted to maintain strength in the law of triangles from all directions. The centre angled skewers on the struts front to back, the cabanes are angled wider at the wing then the fuse, obviously the long ones hold square side to side, just like a full scale biplane.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm still at the cutting out parts stage, so now is a good time to take these things into consideration. What motor/prop combo did you go with?

 

[BATTLEAXE]

Thanks for the heads up. I'm still at the cutting out parts stage, so now is a good time to take these things into consideration. What motor/prop combo did you go with?

My same old go to, actually the only package I have for all my planes. It's a Rimfire .15 3536 1200kv backed up by an Eflite 40 amp 5v/5amp ESC spinning a 9x6 APC prop

 

[BATTLEAXE]

Your handle "RustySocket", did you pull that from a Tragically Hip song? I think it's Nautical Disaster

 

[RustySocket]

Your handle "RustySocket", did you pull that from a Tragically Hip song? I think it's Nautical Disaster

No backstory, just something I pulled out of the tool chest... lol

I've been digging around trying to find what little electric gear I have (always was primarily into nitro). The only stuff I can find on hand is in a Trex 450 heli that was re-kitted and the Align motors don't seem suitable (3000+Kv) and the esc itself is questionable. It looks like the best option is to find an appropriate brushless motor / esc combo. I've looked at the FT combo C and will probably just go with that unless there are some other options I should be aware of. Electrics have come a long way and I'm trying to get a handle on how the motors are rated. One thing I don't want to do is get to far down the road of re-inventing the wheel, so to speak and am just looking for something inexpensive that will do the job.

 

[BATTLEAXE]

No backstory, just something I pulled out of the tool chest... lol

I've been digging around trying to find what little electric gear I have (always was primarily into nitro). The only stuff I can find on hand is in a Trex 450 heli that was re-kitted and the Align motors don't seem suitable (3000+Kv) and the esc itself is questionable. It looks like the best option is to find an appropriate brushless motor / esc combo. I've looked at the FT combo C and will probably just go with that unless there are some other options I should be aware of. Electrics have come a long way and I'm trying to get a handle on how the motors are rated. One thing I don't want to do is get to far down the road of re-inventing the wheel, so to speak and am just looking for something inexpensive that will do the job.

The C pack is a good option if you are just starting out in RC fixed wing, but you also pay for a bunch of stuff you may not need. Like in your case if you have been in nitro you may not need the servos, servo extensions, stoppers and the two screw drivers. You could find a motor and ESC that is the equivalent or better on Amazon or other websites for maybe half the price. Like you can get a 40amp 5v/3amp ESC's for less then $10, and a decent motor for like $25. Here are some examples
ESC https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33001916991.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.54233c002gA3eD&mp=1
Motor https://hobbyking.com/en_us/propdrive-v2-2830-1200kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html?___store=en_us

 

[The Hangar]

The c pack ft offers is good. I have the old one and the new one, but I haven’t flown with the new motor yet. @BATTLEAXE has a really good a beefy motor he uses in all his planes, but it does cost a bit more. It’s a rimfire .15 motor and has a bit more to offer than the c pack does. Have fun!

 

[RustySocket]

The C pack is a good option if you are just starting out in RC fixed wing, but you also pay for a bunch of stuff you may not need. Like in your case if you have been in nitro you may not need the servos, servo extensions, stoppers and the two screw drivers. You could find a motor and ESC that is the equivalent or better on Amazon or other websites for maybe half the price. Like you can get a 40amp 5v/3amp ESC's for less then $10, and a decent motor for like $25. Here are some examples
ESC https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33001916991.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.54233c002gA3eD&mp=1
Motor https://hobbyking.com/en_us/propdrive-v2-2830-1200kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html?___store=en_us

Possibly dumb question here.... I'm looking at the propdrive motor you linked and I see it comes with a collet prop adapter as well as a threaded bolt on prop adapter. How do you use the threaded prop adapter? Does it go on the other end of the motor bolted to the outrunner shell or is it drilled and goes over the shaft?

Making some progress on the plane. It's essentially completed to the point where I need to get electronics to go much further. I'm pretty detail oriented and I've had a lot of fun just cutting this project out and learning how to work with the foam board. Trying to keep it nice but simple things like learning that a hot glue gun drips... and sticks to the plane, or that the foam dents when I drop my ruler or knife on it have been frustrating.... lol

My 45 degree beveling technique is going to take some work....

I learned the hard way that hot glue is HOT and that using a finger to smooth it out results in a dime sized piece of skin missing from my index finger...

I've looked at the plans a couple of times and feel like I'm missing something with the bottom of the fuselage not being sheeted... but then I did find a video and it appears that is the case. Other than weight (possible tail heavy condition) is there any obvious reason I'm missing not to sheet it?

Appreciate the help, and thanks again.

 

[The Hangar]

Possibly dumb question here.... I'm looking at the propdrive motor you linked and I see it comes with a collet prop adapter as well as a threaded bolt on prop adapter. How do you use the threaded prop adapter? Does it go on the other end of the motor bolted to the outrunner shell or is it drilled and goes over the shaft?

Making some progress on the plane. It's essentially completed to the point where I need to get electronics to go much further. I'm pretty detail oriented and I've had a lot of fun just cutting this project out and learning how to work with the foam board. Trying to keep it nice but simple things like learning that a hot glue gun drips... and sticks to the plane, or that the foam dents when I drop my ruler or knife on it have been frustrating.... lol

My 45 degree beveling technique is going to take some work....

I learned the hard way that hot glue is HOT and that using a finger to smooth it out results in a dime sized piece of skin missing from my index finger...

I've looked at the plans a couple of times and feel like I'm missing something with the bottom of the fuselage not being sheeted... but then I did find a video and it appears that is the case. Other than weight (possible tail heavy condition) is there any obvious reason I'm missing not to sheet it?

Appreciate the help, and thanks again.

The collet adapter slides over the shaft and then it has a metal ring that the prop when tightened presses against the shaft making a strong grip.

 

[RustySocket]

The collet adapter slides over the shaft and then it has a metal ring that the prop when tightened presses against the shaft making a strong grip.

So you either have to use the collet style adapter? If you want to use the threaded bolt on adapter which bolts to the other end of the case then to you have to take the motor apart and reverse the shaft?

I would kind of prefer to use a threaded prop adapter.

 

[RustySocket]

Progress and mock up so far.

 

[Grifflyer]

View attachment 154879
Progress and mock up so far.

That looks really good!!

 

[RustySocket]

The circled adapter is the part I'm asking about how to use.

 

[BATTLEAXE]

Possibly dumb question here.... I'm looking at the propdrive motor you linked and I see it comes with a collet prop adapter as well as a threaded bolt on prop adapter. How do you use the threaded prop adapter? Does it go on the other end of the motor bolted to the outrunner shell or is it drilled and goes over the shaft?

Making some progress on the plane. It's essentially completed to the point where I need to get electronics to go much further. I'm pretty detail oriented and I've had a lot of fun just cutting this project out and learning how to work with the foam board. Trying to keep it nice but simple things like learning that a hot glue gun drips... and sticks to the plane, or that the foam dents when I drop my ruler or knife on it have been frustrating.... lol

My 45 degree beveling technique is going to take some work....

I learned the hard way that hot glue is HOT and that using a finger to smooth it out results in a dime sized piece of skin missing from my index finger...

I've looked at the plans a couple of times and feel like I'm missing something with the bottom of the fuselage not being sheeted... but then I did find a video and it appears that is the case. Other than weight (possible tail heavy condition) is there any obvious reason I'm missing not to sheet it?

Appreciate the help, and thanks again.

The collet adapter is for an In-runner style motor set up, best for pusher prop style planes. You want to use the out runner side with the bolt on adapter that attaches to the bell of the motor, it promotes better cooling of the motor and is a more direct solid connection.

View attachment 154879
Progress and mock up so far.

Plane looks good BTW. There are a few tricks you could do to make the upper wing more solid to the airframe as well. As it is, it seems kinda flimsy right?

 

[BATTLEAXE]

View attachment 154880 The circled adapter is the part I'm asking about how to use.

Yea it all comes in the kit