Willy Nillies Eaglet 250 Build

speedbirdted

Legendary member
I think I'm going to go with the Z bend option since now that I think about it adding 3/4 of an inch to the pushrod length is unlikely to really change anything. Plus, no tube, and that means tail weight saved ;)

All the stabilizey bits that go at the back are also done. I always cover the tail and fuse separately and then join them together with epoxy. Avoids having to get the iron in tight corners which is never any fun. I used mylar hinges which actually on this scale work really well - I was afraid the wood was going to be too thin, and I'd have to just use threaded hinges (ugly!!) or fishing line (weak!!) but I was careful with it and it all turned out fine. Rudder hinges aren't glued yet - I can't do that until the tailwheel wire is bent properly to key into the rudder for tailwheel steering, which will get done after the tail goes on.

I test fit the small dorsal fin and ended up not liking how it looked. It's staying off.

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speedbirdted

Legendary member
Betcha never seen an Eaglet do this before!

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All the wiring and servo setup, in the wing at least, is done. The flap mechanism works like a damn dream - literally zero binding whatsoever (I expected at least a little) and I spent like 20 minutes just flipping it back and forth watching it go up and down (i mean if you had the world's first flap equipped Eaglet would you do anything else?) I somehow managed to get it so that even though there's very little gap between the fuselage and flaps in the fully retracted position the flaps can go beyond 90 degrees with the servo at maximum travel - though I won't be using this, and the picture shows the maximum travel I have currently set up, which is still a lot.

If the wing looks a little droopy and twisted to you... it kind of is. But that's intended - my technique for applying covering to wings without adding unwanted twist is to at first... add unwanted twist, and then just delete it later which lets you add twist that you do want - things like washout (I might add some since the ailerons aren't as big as they normally are.) I do this by only actually ironing the covering to the edges - in this case I only applied it to the center wing section, the wingtip and the leading and trailing edges - not to any ribs or the spar. Then after I get all the top covering on afterwards, since the covering has been shrunk but not ironed to the ribs (Most covering films need a combination of heat and pressure to truly adhere to a material, so a heat gun is perfect for shrinking the covering but not sticking it to things) you can go over it with the heat gun while gently twisting the wing, checking the twist after the covering cools, then rinse and repeat until you've added/removed the twist. Then when you're happy with it you can make it more permanent by then going over the ribs with the iron but be very careful not to shrink the covering by accident any more or all the time you just spent gets wasted completely. This step is probably not even necessary on an airplane this tiny, and i don't think I'll be doing it since yellow monokote has an annoying tendency for darkly colored backing objects to show through the color and create annoying black splotches on the covering that aren't really possible to remove (here the burned wood from laser cutting causes it) plus the heat gun for some reason avoids this problem entirely...

@Willy Nillies - Would it be feasable to include a piece of 3/4" triangle stock in the kit for people to make the wingtips out of?
 
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Turbojoe

Elite member
I love the bright yellow. It'll be easy to see that's for sure! I built a Mountain Models Tyro 100 and a Tyro 150 and added flaps to both just for the heck of it. After trying them I never really saw a need for them for flaps but mainly for dropping them to 90 degrees as speed brakes. That was a blast for me. Heading into a gentle wind I could slow down and hit the brakes and do a flat descent with very little forward movement while keeping just a bit of power on. Give the 90 degree setting a try but with some altitude for the first try!

Joe
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
I love the bright yellow. It'll be easy to see that's for sure! I built a Mountain Models Tyro 100 and a Tyro 150 and added flaps to both just for the heck of it. After trying them I never really saw a need for them for flaps but mainly for dropping them to 90 degrees as speed brakes. That was a blast for me. Heading into a gentle wind I could slow down and hit the brakes and do a flat descent with very little forward movement while keeping just a bit of power on. Give the 90 degree setting a try but with some altitude for the first try!

Joe

That sounds like fun! :D
 

speedbirdted

Legendary member
I love the bright yellow. It'll be easy to see that's for sure! I built a Mountain Models Tyro 100 and a Tyro 150 and added flaps to both just for the heck of it. After trying them I never really saw a need for them for flaps but mainly for dropping them to 90 degrees as speed brakes. That was a blast for me. Heading into a gentle wind I could slow down and hit the brakes and do a flat descent with very little forward movement while keeping just a bit of power on. Give the 90 degree setting a try but with some altitude for the first try!

Joe
lol I experimented with hinging the flaps at halfway down the chord on a Kadet so they would act as speedbrakes fully deployed. In a 10mph wind you could add the flaps and it would just stop and go into VTOL mode! This isn't a picture of my plane, but this is pretty much exactly what I did.

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I don't envision the flaps getting a giant amount of use in normal flight. I think when I fly it off of floats they'll get the most use as when you fly off of floats you really, really, really don't want to land too fast because water is actively trying to kill you at all times so it's better not to tempt it.

Speaking of the floats - I'm not sure yet whether I want to build them out of foam or balsa. Whichever is the least headache...
 

speedbirdted

Legendary member
I'm happy I decided to build those wheel pants.

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Lots of progress tonight. Whole fuselage covered up with yellow. I had a lot of yellow. Most of the balsa builds I do this year will probably end up being yellow. I also installed the servos in the fuselage and routed all the cables (I'm going to end up cutting and shortening most of them to reduce clutter in the fuselage and save weight) and with everything plugged into the receiver, it's a hell of a squeeze but it does fit, even with the ESC next to it! Using the inverse battery/electronics setup helped with that here... probably wouldn't have been able to fit the extra cables without moving it downstairs (has anyone else built one of these with the 6ch reciever or has everyone so far used the 4ch? I'm using literally every port on it except the one for a battery LOL)

The landing gear also looks kind of... weird. I think it's because the wires don't line up with the wheels, and you can see the wheel pant mounting is by bending a small parallel portion into the wire (which by the way to get the right angles on the wheels afterwards was absolute torture to do) which gives more area for epoxy to grip between the wire and pant. However this gives the odd visual effect of the wheel being offset backwards which I know you can't even see from most angles but when you do see it it is exceedingly annoying! I think I'm gonna build some lightweight fairings out of 1/16 sheet to make it look less strange...

I stupidly forgot to cut the window covering (i'm using silver for that) before I covered up the fuselage sides that have the window pattern on them. There is a Cricut at my local library which I use quite a lot for cutting monokote and vinyl but... said library is closed for a currently indefinite period of time due to mass hysteria about coronavirus. So I guess I have to revert to my old method which is using the iron on a low temp setting to adhere the monokote very lightly to foamboard, then cut out whatever I want and apply that to the airplane after peeling it back up. Maybe I'll use the normal window templates, maybe I'll do something custom. I think I'm going to use some of the transparent orange I had left over from my Gentle Lady build which looks really good with the yellow backing to make some accent colors here and there - I was thinking maybe an orange lightning bolt stripe on the side like Cubs have maybe...

I also got the top sheeting done on the wing. I really like this yellow color! It's also very, very lightly translucent which really helps with visibility. I dialed in about 1/8 inch of washout on the wings - this is probably a little much, but since the ailerons no longer occupy the entire trailing edge, it's better to err on the side of caution. Normally, I don't actually like putting washout on airplanes as throwing them into instant flatspins is really fun! But this isn't that kind of airplane. This is for easy putting around.

I regret not trying a bolted wing mounting. That would have looked so much better.

P_20200317_015627.jpg
 
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Willy Nillies

Elite member
I'm happy I decided to build those wheel pants.

View attachment 161886

Lots of progress tonight. Whole fuselage covered up with yellow. I had a lot of yellow. Most of the balsa builds I do this year will probably end up being yellow. I also installed the servos in the fuselage and routed all the cables (I'm going to end up cutting and shortening most of them to reduce clutter in the fuselage and save weight) and with everything plugged into the receiver, it's a hell of a squeeze but it does fit, even with the ESC next to it! Using the inverse battery/electronics setup helped with that here... probably wouldn't have been able to fit the extra cables without moving it downstairs (has anyone else built one of these with the 6ch reciever or has everyone so far used the 4ch? I'm using literally every port on it except the one for a battery LOL)

The landing gear also looks kind of... weird. I think it's because the wires don't line up with the wheels, and you can see the wheel pant mounting is by bending a small parallel portion into the wire (which by the way to get the right angles on the wheels afterwards was absolute torture to do) which gives more area for epoxy to grip between the wire and pant. However this gives the odd visual effect of the wheel being offset backwards which I know you can't even see from most angles but when you do see it it is exceedingly annoying! I think I'm gonna build some lightweight fairings out of 1/16 sheet to make it look less strange...

I stupidly forgot to cut the window covering (i'm using silver for that) before I covered up the fuselage sides that have the window pattern on them. There is a Cricut at my local library which I use quite a lot for cutting monokote and vinyl but... said library is closed for a currently indefinite period of time due to mass hysteria about coronavirus. So I guess I have to revert to my old method which is using the iron on a low temp setting to adhere the monokote very lightly to foamboard, then cut out whatever I want and apply that to the airplane after peeling it back up. Maybe I'll use the normal window templates, maybe I'll do something custom. I think I'm going to use some of the transparent orange I had left over from my Gentle Lady build which looks really good with the yellow backing to make some accent colors here and there - I was thinking maybe an orange lightning bolt stripe on the side like Cubs have maybe...

I also got the top sheeting done on the wing. I really like this yellow color! It's also very, very lightly translucent which really helps with visibility. I dialed in about 1/8 inch of washout on the wings - this is probably a little much, but since the ailerons no longer occupy the entire trailing edge, it's better to err on the side of caution. Normally, I don't actually like putting washout on airplanes as throwing them into instant flatspins is really fun! But this isn't that kind of airplane. This is for easy putting around.

I regret not trying a bolted wing mounting. That would have looked so much better.

View attachment 161892

Very Nice!
Sincerely,
Doug and Becky
Willy Millie's.com
 

Turbojoe

Elite member
Looking great! I think I'm going to have to cobble up some wheel pants for the Cessna now. They look so good on your Eaglet. I forgot you're going to use floats too. Flaps may come in really handy then.

Joe
 

speedbirdted

Legendary member
Small update: Motor went on. I made a couple of spacers out of 1/8 balsa because the supplied ones had the holes in an incompatible location and drilling more would have probably made it too weak. I gave it just a little bit of right thrust to counteract the torque; i think this 1510 is the biggest motor anyone has dropped onto one of these things and since the kv is a little lower I might end up having to go to a 6x3 prop and add blades if I want to stay on 2s. Luckily the increased clearance from the taildragger setup means I could fit like a 7-inch prop and it would still clear everything. I used my own mounting screws since I'd already used the supplied claw nuts on other stuff and figured since the motor is probably not going to come back off save for some traumatic event I epoxied the screws and nuts in place.

A word of advice - if you ever have an airplane where the battery is going to be mounted directly behind the firewall, stuff some foam in there! Screws, as far as batteries are concerned, are sharp, even when not cut down. I have lost airplanes completely as the result of not doing this - any hard impact may cause the battery to impale itself on the screws, or the firewall pushes itself back into the battery. The result of a punctured lipo is almost invariably a rapid destruction of the airplane by fire, which without so would have likely been repairable damage. The foam that you find in fuel powered planes typically to wrap the fuel tank and receiver battery is perfect for this, and cheap too! Even a little bit well placed is enough.

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speedbirdted

Legendary member
Nearly there!

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I apologize for the really crappy rate of updates. I've been going into pretty much complete self-isolation lately (I have an autoimmune disease so it's for good reason) so that means I basically have to order literally all the parts I need through the interwebs. I tried nagging friends to go buy me things, but they just waste my money by buying the wrong things. I got the electronics all mounted in - I had to resolder some things to the ESC in different positions to make it fit correctly especially with the receiver fighting it for space in what used to be the battery tray. With a battery installed it's still a little tail heavy, but it's also incredibly light for one of my builds - I'm still pretty sure mine is heavier than pretty much all the other Eaglets that people have built, but mine has the most power :p There's probably still a bit of room to add a tad of nose weight still. On 2s on a 6x3 prop it easily climbs out of my hand at full throttle, but I think for the sake of increased prop clearance I'll drop it back down to a 5x3 or 5x4 if that doesn't load the motor down enough.

P_20200327_015901.jpg


As much as I love the look of the wheel pants, I think for the maiden at least they will be taken off. My mounting... thing... for them was kind of an absolute failure, and while they do hold themselves on while the plane is chilling on the ground, I have a feeling at the first hint of a bad landing they would leave immediately and take the wheels with them because they're holding them on! I made some fairings for the landing gear wires which serve absolutely no purpose, other than making the skinny landing gear wire look a little less strange.

I also built the floats. I promise it's the camera angle that makes them look so big :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

P_20200327_014326.jpg


Jk, these are going on my Valiant whenever float flying season comes. I am however going to start on the actual floats for these as the next phase of the project - I've calculated I need them to be about 15 inches long, and I don't think rudders will be needed. Not sure whether I want to build them from foam or balsa yet - the Valiant floats were an experiment to see if it would be viable to make some slick V-bottom floats and then polycrilic them and honestly it looks pretty good so far! However the thing with Polycrilic is it's kind of ridiculously heavy especially when you need to put new paper on, and with a set of balsa floats I can just throw some monokote on them and I'm done.

You might have noticed the graphics I added - I cut all those out manually! Now before you call bullcrap on me let me introduce you to my technique for cutting such graphics which I like to refer to as the Poor Man's Cricut! Given the blatant simplicity of it I'm surprised I've never seen anybody mention it. This technique stemmed from an earlier attempt where I theorized if you stick monokote to something before attempting to cut it, it will make it much easier and straightforward to cut whatever intricate design you want, so I tried sticking it to some balsa sheet on a low temp setting to see if that would help. It did - but, when I peeled it back up the covering it left slivers of balsa stuck to the covering, even though I used a very low temperature to adhere it! This causes issues not only because it makes the covering bumpy and weird looking when it goes onto something else, but the chips of wood will reduce adhesion and make the covering fall off and go slack faster. I solved this problem with a material we all know of: Foamboard, or more specifically the paper part! Suprisingly this works much better because paper has a much lower porosity than wood so the adhesive takes little if any material with it when peeled back off, and it will stick onto whatever pretty much as it did originally. Plus, foam is cheap, and cutting up big sheets of balsa isn't.

All you need to do this is foam, some sort of template (if you are especially good at freehand drawing you don't even need this) an xacto knife, your iron and monokote (duh) Just stick the monokote to the foamboard and use the templates to cut out whatever you want. Make sure the iron is at a ridiculously low setting - on my very old iron I set the potentiometer literally as low as it will go. The templates can be made from pretty much anything - I made the windows by pulling up the template on my computer, then maxing the brightness and taping some paper to the screen then tracing it with a pencil (don't do it with an x-acto here if you don't want to permanently etch whatever you want to cut into your screen!) Then it's just a matter of cutting out the monokote around the template. The reg number and the eaglet decal were all cut this way, the stripe without a template. I might add more later - but I like how it looks now.

P_20200326_171214.jpg


I kind of want to build an OSMW Comet next. Nitro is calling me...
 
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OliverW

Legendary member
We're done!

View attachment 163433

I apologize for the really crappy rate of updates. I've been going into pretty much complete self-isolation lately (I have an autoimmune disease so it's for good reason) so that means I basically have to order literally all the parts I need through the interwebs. I tried nagging friends to go buy me things, but they just waste my money by buying the wrong things. I got the electronics all mounted in - I had to resolder some things to the ESC in different positions to make it fit correctly especially with the receiver fighting it for space in what used to be the battery tray. With a battery installed it's still a little tail heavy, but it's also incredibly light for one of my builds - I'm still pretty sure mine is heavier than pretty much all the other Eaglets that people have built, but mine has the most power :p There's probably still a bit of room to add a tad of nose weight still. On 2s on a 6x3 prop it easily climbs out of my hand at full throttle, but I think for the sake of increased prop clearance I'll drop it back down to a 5x3 or 5x4 if that doesn't load the motor down enough.

View attachment 163436

As much as I love the look of the wheel pants, I think for the maiden at least they will be taken off. My mounting... thing... for them was kind of an absolute failure, and while they do hold themselves on while the plane is chilling on the ground, I have a feeling at the first hint of a bad landing they would leave immediately and take the wheels with them because they're holding them on! I made some fairings for the landing gear wires which serve absolutely no purpose, other than making the skinny landing gear wire look a little less strange.

I also built the floats. I promise it's the camera angle that makes them look so big :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

View attachment 163438

Jk, these are going on my Valiant whenever float flying season comes. I am however going to start on the actual floats for these as the next phase of the project - I've calculated I need them to be about 15 inches long, and I don't think rudders will be needed. Not sure whether I want to build them from foam or balsa yet - the Valiant floats were an experiment to see if it would be viable to make some slick V-bottom floats and then polycrilic them and honestly it looks pretty good so far! However the thing with Polycrilic is it's kind of ridiculously heavy especially when you need to put new paper on, and with a set of balsa floats I can just throw some monokote on them and I'm done.

You might have noticed the graphics I added - I cut all those out manually! Now before you call bullcrap on me let me introduce you to my technique for cutting such graphics which I like to refer to as the Poor Man's Cricut! Given the blatant simplicity of it I'm surprised I've never seen anybody mention it. This technique stemmed from an earlier attempt where I theorized if you stick monokote to something before attempting to cut it, it will make it much easier and straightforward to cut whatever intricate design you want, so I tried sticking it to some balsa sheet on a low temp setting to see if that would help. It did - but, when I peeled it back up the covering it left slivers of balsa stuck to the covering, even though I used a very low temperature to adhere it! This causes issues not only because it makes the covering bumpy and weird looking when it goes onto something else, but the chips of wood will reduce adhesion and make the covering fall off and go slack faster. I solved this problem with a material we all know of: Foamboard, or more specifically the paper part! Suprisingly this works much better because paper has a much lower porosity than wood so the adhesive takes little if any material with it when peeled back off, and it will stick onto whatever pretty much as it did originally. Plus, foam is cheap, and cutting up big sheets of balsa isn't.

All you need to do this is foam, some sort of template (if you are especially good at freehand drawing you don't even need this) an xacto knife, your iron and monokote (duh) Just stick the monokote to the foamboard and use the templates to cut out whatever you want. Make sure the iron is at a ridiculously low setting - on my very old iron I set the potentiometer literally as low as it will go. The templates can be made from pretty much anything - I made the windows by pulling up the template on my computer, then maxing the brightness and taping some paper to the screen then tracing it with a pencil (don't do it with an x-acto here if you don't want to permanently etch whatever you want to cut into your screen!) Then it's just a matter of cutting out the monokote around the template. The reg number and the eaglet decal were all cut this way, the stripe without a template. I might add more later - but I like how it looks now.

View attachment 163447

I kind of want to build an OSMW Comet next. Nitro is calling me...
I love the OSMW Comet as well. One of my club members built their javelin and said that it is the most well thought out kit he has built! He says with all kits there is gonna be fitting issues, but the javelin had none
 

speedbirdted

Legendary member
I love the OSMW Comet as well. One of my club members built their javelin and said that it is the most well thought out kit he has built! He says with all kits there is gonna be fitting issues, but the javelin had none
I've heard a lot of good about their kits. A guy at my club has built two Robinhood 80s, one powered by an OS 120 Gemini II and the other with an Evolution 20cc gasser. According to him they're the easiest kits he's ever put together. I've flown the gas one and it's honestly kind of boring it's so stable, but that's how I like to fly sometimes (because when I do anything crazy the airplane usually doesn't survive it)

As for an engine in a Comet I have an OS 25FP that I put a few tanks through to break it in on the stand and then put back in the box and never used again. 80's OS engines kick ass! Either that or a little 4 stroker, like a Magnum XL30, because who doesn't love 4 strokes, but that might be a little too much nose weight. Or I could go totally insane and throw my OPS 40 in it and try and break the sound barrier :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

OliverW

Legendary member
I've heard a lot of good about their kits. A guy at my club has built two Robinhood 80s, one powered by an OS 120 Gemini II and the other with an Evolution 20cc gasser. According to him they're the easiest kits he's ever put together. I've flown the gas one and it's honestly kind of boring it's so stable, but that's how I like to fly sometimes (because when I do anything crazy the airplane usually doesn't survive it)

As for an engine in a Comet I have an OS 25FP that I put a few tanks through to break it in on the stand and then put back in the box and never used again. 80's OS engines kick ass! Either that or a little 4 stroker, like a Magnum XL30, because who doesn't love 4 strokes, but that might be a little too much nose weight. Or I could go totally insane and throw my OPS 40 in it and try and break the sound barrier :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
I need to buy an OS 25 for my Sig Kobra that is near completion. I really want to build the robinhood 25 also