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Willy Nillies Sport 250 - build along

#1
Been working on and off on the Sport 250 for a couple weeks, just a few minutes here and there.

Comments so far:

- I actually do miss having instructions. Mostly it's pretty obvious if you've ever built a balsa plane, but a few things I sat around looking at for a while.

- The laser cutting and fit are excellent.

- Price was excellent.

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One design change I made was inserting a double thickness spar out to rib no. 5. I built a BMJR Ugly 30 last year, and I was not happy with the stiffness of the wing with a very similar design (2x .125" spars).

Lack of instructions caused me some confusing on orientation of the plywood center sections. I used 1 each flat plywood pieces on the front and back of the wing.

Dry fit the fuse:

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Starting to check weight and balance with electronics. I got a $6 ESC (20a) from Buddy RC because it was so cheap. However it appears to weigh 1/2oz more than a 12a ESC, and the plane feels nose heavy with a 450 3s battery in place. At this point I'm taking a little stop to consider putting the ESC in the "misc rc parts" pile and buying another one. I'd also like to see about replacing those metal machine screws/nuts on the motor mount with blind nuts and plastic screws. I think I could take .6oz out of the plane.

So far with all wood, electronics and batts:

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In my mind I'd like this plane to be ready to fly at 7oz, and maybe I could make that happen in belly lander config if I can swap out the ESC and save a couple tenths in a few other spots.
 

Turbojoe

Well-known member
#2
Subscribed! While the rest of us have had a few issues ending up tail heavy I see with your motor and 3S battery you could end up just a little nose heavy.

I built my Super Sport using all UMX AS3X electronics. If anyone else has entertained using UMX components I highly recommend NOT to. It was a nightmare I don't want to endure again trying to make those bloody linear servos work. They look ugly sticking out of the wing and while I know it'll fly I just don't trust it so I haven't. I'll likely gut it and put the right stuff from Willy Nillies in it like I used in the Eaglet and the Skylark. It's cheap and a perfect match even on 500 mah 2S packs!

Joe
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
#3
Looks good so far! I did the same as you with the extra ply pieces along the leading & trailing edges of the wing where the rubberbands will go on my J3 Cub. I figured it would simply help avoid the rubberband crushing the balsa over time, with a minimal weight penalty.
 

TooJung2Die

Well-known member
#4
Great, another Willy Nillies build! I love to see how everyone re-engineers their kits. Did you use a beefier spar because there are no shear webs in the kit?

I've seen the videos, these airplanes scream with the little 1806 motor. I'm amazed at how fast they fly with the 1306 and a 2S battery. (fast enough for me) :)
 
#5
Great, another Willy Nillies build! I love to see how everyone re-engineers their kits. Did you use a beefier spar because there are no shear webs in the kit?

I've seen the videos, these airplanes scream with the little 1806 motor. I'm amazed at how fast they fly with the 1306 and a 2S battery. (fast enough for me) :)

Yes, exactly. When I built the BMJR Ugly 30 the design of the wing was almost the same. It seemed like the wing was very, very flexible, and was relying mostly on the covering film for stability. I just didn't feel totally comfortable with it, and once its built your stuck. The extra weight of a few inches of 1/4" balsa is so small it almost doesn't matter so I went ahead and cut the slots deeper.

I hadn't thought about going 2s - I do have a couple 2s 370's. If the 1806 pulls good that way it might be wise to go lighter and slower......at least for a few flights :devilish:
 

Turbojoe

Well-known member
#6
I've seen the videos, these airplanes scream with the little 1806 motor. I'm amazed at how fast they fly with the 1306 and a 2S battery. (fast enough for me) :)
Agreed! 3S and a hot motor on most of these birds is approaching insanity. I'd save that configuration for only the little Willy Nillies GLH 250 that is meant to be a speed demon.

Joe
 

Turbojoe

Well-known member
#7
Yes, exactly. When I built the BMJR Ugly 30 the design of the wing was almost the same. It seemed like the wing was very, very flexible, and was relying mostly on the covering film for stability. I just didn't feel totally comfortable with it, and once its built your stuck. The extra weight of a few inches of 1/4" balsa is so small it almost doesn't matter so I went ahead and cut the slots deeper.

I hadn't thought about going 2s - I do have a couple 2s 370's. If the 1806 pulls good that way it might be wise to go lighter and slower......at least for a few flights :devilish:
I've built three Willy Nillies kits so far. In the beginning I too was a little concerned at the lack of a center section joiner. However, I can attest that the wings as designed are more than up to the task and need no reinforcement. Adding it if you like can't hurt anything other than minimal weight gain. Hey, peace of mind can be worth a few extra grams right?

While neither of my latest Willy Nillies maidens would climb vertical out of sight on 2S they just weren't designed to do that. They do perform everything else quite admirably on 2S. So much so that I have no desire to even try them on the extra weight (and cost of) 3S.

Joe
 

Willy Nillies

Well-known member
#8
All Right! Another Super Sport! :)

The wing on the Super Sport is pretty tough as designed. We tried many times to break in flight and couldn't. We started including shear webs in the 3 run of kits. Shear webs take it from a very tough wing to if you break it, the wing breaking will be the least of your worries because there won't be anything else left! ;-)

Looks like you built the full length wing.... you'll be fine up to 8.5 ounces and still have a plane that will slow down slower than you would think. I wouldn't be concerned at all about the weight that you are at right now.

2 cell battery flies it well w/1806. Won't go vertical out of site, but will provide an 45 degree or so climb out. Be sure to use a 6 x4 prop or equivalent on 2s. On 3s with a 6x4 prop it will accelerate going vertical out of site. :) Fun!

We are working on manuals every day. It takes a lot more time to write a good manual with pictures than we realized, but we are getting there. Please post any and all questions and suggestions you may have.

Sincerely,
Doug and Becky
WillyNillies.com
 
#9
All Right! Another Super Sport! :)

Looks like you built the full length wing.... you'll be fine up to 8.5 ounces and still have a plane that will slow down slower than you would think. I wouldn't be concerned at all about the weight that you are at right now.

Thanks, yes I used all 8 ribs. However it appears the kit was designed for a tapered wing tip? I did not add those as I figured it would make the covering job a bit harder with the compound curves it would add to the tips.

Once I sheeted up the center of the wing it does indeed tie together nicely. On a kit this light I doubt the extra spar was needed as you say. Probably wouldn't do it again, but it doesn't hurt anything either.
 
#10
Finally getting back at it after some diversions. Received a 12amp esc from Willy Nillies and it’s much lighter than my 20.

Having some trouble figuring out how the back of the wing is supposed to fit in the fuse and against the wing. I did it wrong clearly but I’m making it work although the wing won’t transition into the ailerons the correct way. Oh well.
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SquirrelTail

Well-known member
#11
Finally getting back at it after some diversions. Received a 12amp esc from Willy Nillies and it’s much lighter than my 20.

Having some trouble figuring out how the back of the wing is supposed to fit in the fuse and against the wing. I did it wrong clearly but I’m making it work although the wing won’t transition into the ailerons the correct way. Oh well.
View attachment 161849
View attachment 161850
It wasnt supposed to sit flush. Just to where it had a bit of overlap onto the bottom of the fuse
 

Willy Nillies

Well-known member
#12
Finally getting back at it after some diversions. Received a 12amp esc from Willy Nillies and it’s much lighter than my 20.

Having some trouble figuring out how the back of the wing is supposed to fit in the fuse and against the wing. I did it wrong clearly but I’m making it work although the wing won’t transition into the ailerons the correct way. Oh well.
View attachment 161849
View attachment 161850

There should be two 1/8" balsa rectangles that get glued to the center trailing edge. They are sized to perfectly take up the space between the trailing edge of the wing and the fuselage bottom sheet.

The pushrod routing was designed for the servos to be set against the fuselage side with arms to the middle. Might be easier and less friction if you do it that way.

Sincerely,
Doug and Becky
WillyNillies.com
 
#13
Got it. Thanks. I’ve already glued and drilled a bulkhead for pushrods onto the back of the bay, but perhaps I’ll take a look at removing that and changing the servo config.

As to the wing: yes I did figure out how it was supposed to go. I thought it might look nicer if the back of the wing was flush with the fuse. After I glued them up I realized it was probably a mistake to try that because of the way the parts fit together. I’ll have to work out some fix it’s already glued up.
 
#15
Thanks, yeah I knew I was doing it wrong I guess and did it anyway. I’ll either glue in some extra to the wing or the ailerons. My EVA sport has cross grain stiffeners on the ends and that would be a decent way to cover over the mistake.
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Anyway I couldn’t resist the chance to mock it up and make airplane sounds!
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Next up is sanding and laying out some covering schemes. It will be white and trans red.

Doug thoughts on 50 watts? I tested it with 2s and a 6045bn, and that’s what it put out. It would be nice to fly “light” for the maiden. It will be well over 75 watts on 3s, it puts that out with a 5x4, and I could probably go 6, but not a bull nose light I tested with 2s.
 

Willy Nillies

Well-known member
#16
Alright! More airplane noises being made today! Love it! :)

50 watts on a 6045 will make a nice flying airplane (puts it right at 100 watts per pound) below is video of one of our Barnstormers with 2 cell setup at 48 watts. 3 cell set up will give you unlimited vertical performance. :)

Sincerely
Doug and Becky
WillyNillies.com

 

TooJung2Die

Well-known member
#17
50 watts on a 6045 will make a nice flying airplane (puts it right at 100 watts per pound)
I agree completely. My Eaglet weighs 7.0 ounces with battery. I'm very happy with the thrust of the 1306 with a 5x3 propeller on a 2S battery. Astonished is more like it. Flying above half throttle on that setup is uncomfortably fast for me. Most of the time it's below half throttle and it only gets bumped up a bit for mild aerobatics.
Jon