As mentioned on my other current build thread for the WN Littlest Stick, I'm also building the WN Super Sport 250. The fuselage is pretty straight forward for anybody who's built a few kits, but the Super Sport 250 has a couple very interesting "party tricks" related to the wing...
First up, and not shown in these pictures, is that the fuselage allows for a low-wing (as pictured) or a shoulder-wing by flipping the fuselage "upside down" so the wing mounts on top of the fuse. That does require the builder to move at least the vertical stabilizer to the bottom (top?) of the fuselage, but that's an easy modification.
The leading edge of the wing is also held in place by a clever dowel & hole. This centers the wing nicely and makes it easier to align while adding the rubber bands to hold the wing in place.
However, here's where it gets interesting... Note that my wing has been built with a swept-back leading edge and a straight trailing edge. By swapping the leading/trailing edge pieces I could have made the wing with a straight leading edge and swept-forward leading edge. No extra parts needed, just re-configure what comes with the kit!
The kit also includes the parts needed to do a wing with or without dihedral, just by changing the braces. Show is my choice of a wing without dihedral.
Depending on which wing you build you use the appropriate spacers for the trailing edge between the ailerons. Spacers for both versions are included. It's hard to tell in the picture, but the pieces NOT attached to the wing have a small angled portion which would follow the taper of the wing. Also shown in this picture are a couple of scrap pieces of balsa I added to help align the wing. These end up on the inside of the fuselage and keep the wing from shifting around too much while I install the rubber bands.
Included also are pre-cut pieces which go around the servo arm, giving the covering a solid surface to mount to. These can be mounted on the top or bottom of the wing, depending on how you want to set your servos up. I got a little creative on mine, and recessed them slightly into the ribs they attach to. This helped me make sure the curve of the rib could more easily be followed and gave me a stronger joint compared to a simple butt-joint.
Wing tip parts are included for those (like me) who want a more rounded tip. These could easily be omitted, or modified if you want to add faux tip-tanks, I guess. I could have also skipped adding the piece which doubles the width of the last rib, to save a tiny amount of weight.
Another option with the wing is shortening it by a full rib section, giving you a really sporty flight! It'd be very easy to do with this design.
Going back to the dowel & hole setup for the wing mounting, some of you might have wondered about a shoulder-mounted wing with dihedral. Doug set you up as well - there are three options included with the kit to allow for all shoulder/low wing and dihedral/no dihedral options.
There might be more "Easter Eggs" hidden in this wing design that I haven't noticed, but I'm still very impressed with the ones I've found!
First up, and not shown in these pictures, is that the fuselage allows for a low-wing (as pictured) or a shoulder-wing by flipping the fuselage "upside down" so the wing mounts on top of the fuse. That does require the builder to move at least the vertical stabilizer to the bottom (top?) of the fuselage, but that's an easy modification.
The leading edge of the wing is also held in place by a clever dowel & hole. This centers the wing nicely and makes it easier to align while adding the rubber bands to hold the wing in place.
However, here's where it gets interesting... Note that my wing has been built with a swept-back leading edge and a straight trailing edge. By swapping the leading/trailing edge pieces I could have made the wing with a straight leading edge and swept-forward leading edge. No extra parts needed, just re-configure what comes with the kit!
The kit also includes the parts needed to do a wing with or without dihedral, just by changing the braces. Show is my choice of a wing without dihedral.
Depending on which wing you build you use the appropriate spacers for the trailing edge between the ailerons. Spacers for both versions are included. It's hard to tell in the picture, but the pieces NOT attached to the wing have a small angled portion which would follow the taper of the wing. Also shown in this picture are a couple of scrap pieces of balsa I added to help align the wing. These end up on the inside of the fuselage and keep the wing from shifting around too much while I install the rubber bands.
Included also are pre-cut pieces which go around the servo arm, giving the covering a solid surface to mount to. These can be mounted on the top or bottom of the wing, depending on how you want to set your servos up. I got a little creative on mine, and recessed them slightly into the ribs they attach to. This helped me make sure the curve of the rib could more easily be followed and gave me a stronger joint compared to a simple butt-joint.
Wing tip parts are included for those (like me) who want a more rounded tip. These could easily be omitted, or modified if you want to add faux tip-tanks, I guess. I could have also skipped adding the piece which doubles the width of the last rib, to save a tiny amount of weight.
Another option with the wing is shortening it by a full rib section, giving you a really sporty flight! It'd be very easy to do with this design.
Going back to the dowel & hole setup for the wing mounting, some of you might have wondered about a shoulder-mounted wing with dihedral. Doug set you up as well - there are three options included with the kit to allow for all shoulder/low wing and dihedral/no dihedral options.
There might be more "Easter Eggs" hidden in this wing design that I haven't noticed, but I'm still very impressed with the ones I've found!
