Winter Build 2018/19: Hangar 9 P-47D Razorback
- Thread starter willsonman
- Start date
You should be able to get a decent chalk wash at any LHS that sells plastic model kits. Really makes details pop too. Also, you can get oil washes that simulate hydraulic or oil streaks near landing gear and flap actuators. Might be a worthwhile addition if you want to go for the well worn look.
You mean the rest of you aren't just smearing molybdenum gear lube on your planes for weathering?!
Just a little tease today.
struggleforlife
Member
I don't even have to think about modelling humans in CAD. I have enough problems making basic stuff. So I guess I have to download someone else's work hahaha,
BTW, heads are plenty available on sites like thingiverse etc. You can even have your own head scanned at some places!
BTW, heads are plenty available on sites like thingiverse etc. You can even have your own head scanned at some places!
The finish quality and rivits look fantastic!
I have a box in my paint cabinet marked "weathering" with washes and such
If we want to get really silly we can do appropriate washes for the field conditions. P-40 from the desert in Africa? Sandy and tan washes. Muddy European theater? Burnt umber, and "mud" washes. Oil washes for everyone. Loads of Dull Cote used too. These pictures are after the first two coats. First was some burnt umber laid into the low spots and the folds in the clothing. It is subtle but brings out shading when the base coats are applied. The light tan on the pants will get a few layers with slightly different shading and then get thoroughly washed. The high sheen on the jacket will be dulled a LOT as the next layers go on, and then washes and stains will age the leather. Skin tone looks OK and now that it is cured I'll need to work on the eyes. I hate doing eyes but they are crucial to the look. It takes a few days for me to paint a pilot figure. I know I could pull out a hair dryer and speed it up, but I always seem to have more than one thing going on anyway.
Sat him down in the 17 cockpit. He is a touch on the small side for that scale, BUT honestly not too bad.
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Those hands look pretty good too!
Tench745
Master member
I was reading up on figure painting once, for eyes they recommended doing a horizontal line of white across the whole eye socket. Add a vertical line of black for the pupil, then come back with your iris color in small swipes to round out the pupil. Anything outside of the eye then gets covered over with skin tone. The idea being that it's easier to cut in around an existing color than try adding it to the middle of something else. I can't say I've tried it myself yet, but it looked plausible.
Ok, so I got both of the main gear doors covered. The one I had to bake had a significant amount of warping but not so much that it will detract from the look. Since this door is actually two separate doors, I left the seam in the middle a bit wider than the overlap I will be doing on the main finish. As I delve into this technique further you will understand more. Since this was a hard plastic part, no surface preparation was required other than some sanding to eliminate the seams on the pain lines. The glue on the foil does cure and it takes about a day or two to do so. For the rivets, I'm using a piece of metal that has a hole of 0.7mm ID. These flush rivets are TINY... less than a mm in diameter. Very scale in size and will be very interesting to look at. Each one is hand-placed. For guide lines, you have to apply a line on the foil. Normal felt-tipped markers or pens are out. I'm using a calligraphy marker that has a water-based ink. The line is smudgy when applied because the ink does not like the metal surface but also, the tip is VERY soft. This is necessary so that the marker does not leave a line in the foil. Harder tips WILL leave a line. The last step for these are to polish them. I have a buffing wheel and polishing compound that I will use in conjunction with my drill. More on that later. Again, these really are teasing shots but the different angles of light highlight how interesting this model will be to look at. Not just once, but multiple times at different times of the day. Different lights will hide and reveal different details.
I have reference lines drawn on the hatch as well. My next big post will cover some additional details on the process of covering. I will likely be shooting video for this as there are a lot of things to cover and typing it out is not nearly as efficient.
I have reference lines drawn on the hatch as well. My next big post will cover some additional details on the process of covering. I will likely be shooting video for this as there are a lot of things to cover and typing it out is not nearly as efficient.
jaredstrees
Well-known member
I do believe my jaw hurts every time you do one of these big posts. Because it always seems to hit the floor. Those look fantastic!
LOL, well, thank you! I have to say that because I know what the final product looks like in my head. The polished aluminum will make this all that much more stunning. It will essentially look like flying jewelry. In the second image, on the darker panel. You can barely make out that on the left is a reflection of my arm and hand and at the top is my hair. I'm clearly wearing a dark shirt... in the same picture, note the grain in the aluminum in the lit panel. That will be very different after the polishing wheel.
I want to be blinded when watching this fly!
struggleforlife
Member
These rivits look awesome Willson. Pretty shitty job to do I bet hahahaha. Ah, well, only a million more to do.
struggleforlife
Member
Also, I have some updates!
First of all, I did the cowl flap mod.
After cutting the cowl and flaps -that worked out quite nice- I noticed there were only 8 flaps. Not scale (should be 11), and also a negative effect on the mechanics (more space required in order to turn the flap outwards). So I decided to make new flaps out of thin aluminium (I had a thought about glassing new ones, but aluminium seemed easier).
Wow, what a job! Two days of cutting, filing, sanding, glueing, re-doing and swearing, But voila, it works like a charm. Ofcourse, also the flap 'overlaps', so when they're spread, no gaps are visible.
Only thing left is finding a system to attach the cowl to the fuse. I'll be doing something like @willson did.
.
First of all, I did the cowl flap mod.
After cutting the cowl and flaps -that worked out quite nice- I noticed there were only 8 flaps. Not scale (should be 11), and also a negative effect on the mechanics (more space required in order to turn the flap outwards). So I decided to make new flaps out of thin aluminium (I had a thought about glassing new ones, but aluminium seemed easier).
Wow, what a job! Two days of cutting, filing, sanding, glueing, re-doing and swearing, But voila, it works like a charm. Ofcourse, also the flap 'overlaps', so when they're spread, no gaps are visible.
Only thing left is finding a system to attach the cowl to the fuse. I'll be doing something like @willson did.
.
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struggleforlife
Member
Next update: the functional intercoolers!
Ofcourse, my 'challenge' here is the fact that I will not be doing a total 'strip' of the covering like @willson. So I have to be a little more carefull. The older version of the p47 i have already has plastic intercooler-thingies. I broke them out, leaving a gap of a certain size.
I developped my own intercooler mechanism, specifically for this gap, and printed them.
Finally I built them into the fuse and added a (one) servo for the opening/closing.
The intercoolers fought me every step of the way. Just as the fuse/hole they had to be build into. But voila, they work!
All that is left is to do some paintbrushing on the outside of the intercooler doors (the white and red parts).
PS. night here, difficult light for my phonecam, so photo's don't do it justice.
Ofcourse, my 'challenge' here is the fact that I will not be doing a total 'strip' of the covering like @willson. So I have to be a little more carefull. The older version of the p47 i have already has plastic intercooler-thingies. I broke them out, leaving a gap of a certain size.
I developped my own intercooler mechanism, specifically for this gap, and printed them.
Finally I built them into the fuse and added a (one) servo for the opening/closing.
The intercoolers fought me every step of the way. Just as the fuse/hole they had to be build into. But voila, they work!
All that is left is to do some paintbrushing on the outside of the intercooler doors (the white and red parts).
PS. night here, difficult light for my phonecam, so photo's don't do it justice.
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struggleforlife
Member
And final update: the functional exhausts.
I designed my own exhausts and printed them over the course of a few weeks (10 or 15 iterations mind you). Decided to go for functional exhausts, so adding a small servo. I tried to do one servo for the both, but that became too complicated and weak.
Again, as I am not doing a total strip of the plane, the building-in is a very very tricky job. I had to cut a square and circel out of each of the sides, in order to stick the exhaust system through.
Paintbrushed the exhausts (weathered) already.
I designed my own exhausts and printed them over the course of a few weeks (10 or 15 iterations mind you). Decided to go for functional exhausts, so adding a small servo. I tried to do one servo for the both, but that became too complicated and weak.
Again, as I am not doing a total strip of the plane, the building-in is a very very tricky job. I had to cut a square and circel out of each of the sides, in order to stick the exhaust system through.
Paintbrushed the exhausts (weathered) already.
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struggleforlife
Member
Oh and I did my first ever servo reversal too. Looked it up on youtube and was all done in 5 min, easy peasy!
Well done, sir! Yeah, servo reversing is pretty simple.. Just gotta be careful wen soldering tiny things.
