WW I Wheel v2

[Inq]

Inq submitted a new resource:

WW I Wheel - 3D Printed Wheel for World War I planes.

This is a 3D Printed Wheel for World War I planes. Specifically, this is a half model. You'll print two them and glue/fuse them together to make a wheel. It is sized for a 1/16" wire, but can easily be drilled out for your specific needs. It is sized for my FTFC23 Fokker D.VIII but can easily be scaled for your specific needs. For instance for a FT Mighty Mini DR1...

Read more about this resource...

 

[Inq]

Inq updated WW I Wheel with a new update entry:

Version 2 - Internal Differences

Depending on many things like your printer, material choices... alignment of the stars, this one might print easier (or worse View attachment 234467 ). Read more in the Discussion section comparing and contrasting.

Read the rest of this update entry...

 

[Inq]

Depending on many things version 2 may or may not be easier to print.

This very simple shape is really quite hard to print. It has several key things making it difficult for a 3D printer.

1. 3D, rounded contours, shallow angles - The stair stepping nature of 3D printing makes it look like a low resolution digital image. The answer is to use either very thin layers or use Cura's Adaptive Layer feature. But that has problems...
2. It's almost entirely overhangs. If you don't make it solid (very heavy), you have to hold up the top surfaces. Using InFill or Supports is required.
3. Blow through with small areas can ruin the top surface. Print cooling can help, different InFills can help.

Version 1 is completely hollow and an InFill must be used to hold up the top surface.
Version 2 is a solid or revolution. Although it doesn't need InFill, it still needs Supports.

AGAIN... you may have better results using 1 or 2. Please share any techniques if you get a better/lighter print.

Here are some that I ran into...
Using version 1, I filled cavity with a Cubic InFill. It's the most rigid in all three directions. Unfortunately, I was also using Adaptive Layers and the layers are at their thinnest (0.1 mm) on the top conic section. Because the extruder is above the same small area for so long and the layers are very thing, you get what I call, "blow through". There might be a more recognized name. The small heated chambers of the InFill blow thought the last thin layer of plastic... subsequent layers have nothing to build on so they blow out also.

... Using thicker layers, which looks worse - still had blow through.
... Using a different InFill structure like Lines I thought would help since there are gaps between lines that will let the heated pressure area dissipate through the entire volume - I still had blow through.
... Also the InFill adds weight that is not easily removed.

This is why I created a Version 2

Version 2 worked better for me, but I use ABS and no cooling. Again, you might have better luck with v1. Supports are required with v2, but they can be easily removed. Removing the supports, using Adaptive Layers gave me the best results.

Here, with supports removed, fused together and with some rough 120 grit sanding, I got these... 66 mm diameter, 19.1 grams for the pair.