YANTBL: Yet another NOOB tricopter build log

[Johan]

Yeah, first flight, OK, with a Bat bone 3D simulator model

I made a virtual flight with a model I adapted for the simulator, so it looks like a Bat Bone.

I've moved the message to a more appropriate thread (simulators) :

http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?5109-I-made-a-rough-Bat-bone-3D-simulator-model

 

[Homertje]

Johan, i see you are a fellow dutchman, how long did it take for the bat bone to arrive? and did you have to pay tax + declaration fees? how did they send the package? (as gift?, with clear invoice on the outside?) somewhat topic theft but since its a buildlog, and i see ordering parts as vital part of building, i ask here. hope you don't mind.

 

[Johan]

Hi Homertje,

No problem: I ordered mine on june 20th, it arrived on july 23rd (It left the USPS sort in centre In Chicago on june 29th and was then untraceable until the mailman arrived).
If I recall correctly there was a clear invoice on the outside, but the exact terminology I do not remember (box is gone).
So I did have to pay the fees. Ah, and be prepared: You have to have the cash amount to pay directly to the mailman (and you won't know the exact amount until then).

They carry fancy scan devices so that the order can be checked out on your doorstep, but they do not carry a PIN terminal...

If you do not have the exact amount, your options are to :
- give the mailman a big tip (if you have larger cash on hand)
- see your package leaving with the mailman and pick it up at the post-office the next day

Hope this helps
Johan

 

[Homertje]

First off, your info was very helpful! Thank you!
May I ask what you had to pay, as a indication?

I'm not in a rush at all (anymore), as my FrSky V8FR-II HV RX had a unresolved issue of bright yellow spark and a awful smell, which happened when I CORRECTLY connected my LiPo RX battery...(Futaba connector) My battery is fine, the receiver... not so much.

 

[Johan]

You're welcome!

I did not only order just the Bat Frame, but also some extra stuff (not much though). I roughly converted the dollars to Euro's and added the standard Eur 12,- ? for 'customs handling' (It is Eur 17 for EMS shipments I read).
All I remember is that the amount I had to pay was a little bit more than my estimate (maybe customs uses a different conversion rate or guestimates the value differently...)

I read somewhere that if you are able to get a local Track&Trace code (call the general TPG info number @xx cents/minute and have the 'foreign tracking code' at hand), they'll let you know what the charge is going to be).

Funny thing is: I tried that on the 22nd of July and they said NO package was heading my direction, but the next day it arrived ...
So it must have been in the local system that time, but nobody knew..

BTW: Sorry to hear about your FrSky ...

 

[Homertje]

so the surcharge of the customs was "only" €12,- or did you have to pay the 21% VAT (BTW) over the total estimated value + shipping + €12,-?

 

[Johan]

Well,

to be clear: TPG asks €12,- for arranging the clearance (fixed price, but with EMS it is €17,-)

Customs adds the 'inklaring' costs, depending on the value of the package. Both are collected by TPG on delivery.

Customs may deviate from the calculated $ price converted to € based on their estimate (even if stated otherwise by the vendor)..

Hope this makes sense, but cannot explain it otherwise.

So the minimum is €12,- unless inklaring is clearly not necessary (value below € 24 IIRC)

Then it is 'free'

 

[Johan]

Update:

Before 'risking' a GoPro and adding weight, I installed a keychain camera that I got of eBay (beware of fakes). It is a 1280x720 808 #16 v2 that has video out while recording. I feed that into a Boscam 5.8 gHz transmitter.

Total weight at this moment ~800 grams (with the FPV setup, battery and all, apart from the props ..) pretty pleased.



Today I also added an orientation helper (will have to see what it does in daylight ): a few LEDs with a resistor in series so that it uses around 20mA with the 3S setup.

Something I learned (advice to novice builders such as myself): I thought it would be easy to get the "battery to 3 pairs of bullet connector breakout cable" . That is indeed nice if you don't plan on using any extra gear. Once you decide even to add something simple as a few LEDs, the KK2 voltage alarm or as mentioned earlier some FPV transmitter you find out this neat setup leaves you with a nice closed system with no power 'outlets' to connect your nifty additions.

So, if you're starting out in building a tri and anticipate on adding anything in the future, go for the "battery to 4 pairs of bullet connector breakout cable" (nearly no extra cost). You can start out with the 3 pairs and use the 4th lead to power (3S compatible!) add ons later on, using some bullet connectors.

Ah, so today I added an orientation helper: some LEDs with a resistor in series on the tail:

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Here's a nifty trick for low amp stuff like low power LEDs, cameras, etc., when you have a closed system as you mentioned and you're not wanting to splice and solder into your harness.

Serendipitously, this really only works well with silicone insulated wire such as is used with multirotors. Take a small paper-clip, or some other fine stiff wire, a pin will even work, cut off the head, then slip the wire or pin into the silicone insulation at a shallow angle like a nurse drawing blood. Be careful not to pop through the other side. Then solder to the end of the pin or stiff wire and use shrink tubing to secure the solder connection.Then lightly epoxy the area you punctured the insulation and a bit up the wire or pin. It works well, but again, do it only for low current, non critical stuff.

 

[Johan]

Oh, and for those wondering: why no maiden footage yet? That was due to the rainy and / or windy days over here that caused me to stay indoors and go 'virtual' :

Modeling the batbone in 3D for use with the simulator I use and convert Chads panorama pictures into a virtual flying field. Some people are converting the field to other Simulators

See the official thread: Kapper Residence Flite Test Flying Site

 

[Johan]

That is a neat trick Cyberdactyl!

I ended up with using some spare XT60 connectors and two pieces of silicone insulated wire (each about 8 cm and the same kind as for the battery) as a sort of battery extension wire where I wrapped the FPV transmitters + and - wires around the power wires before soldering into the connectors.
Added some heatshrink for each combo to insulate.

 

[Homertje]

soooo envious!!! looks so nice! I'm still waiting for my batbone, can't wait, funny enough I have mostly the same hardware, difference is i've replaced the KK2.0 for a APM2.5.2 Ardupilot, and i have the slowfly props as trainer props (they will prob be broken as i'll prob crash my tricopter a lot as i have 0 experience or whatsoever with tricopters, however i CAN fly a flybarless heli, so might not be so bad...) and 3 sets of full carbon (1 set RHR & 2 sets LHR) props from multirotorparts.nl both in 9" (4.7) and 8" (4.5).

I was wondering:
Did you flash your escs with SimonK firmware?

 

[Johan]

Funny we have similar setups, I also plan to use the APM later along the way, but first have to learn control the thing

I meant to flash the escs, but found out that the 15 AMP multistars from turnigy do not have the 'regular' patches to attach the MISO/MOSI etc. wires. Apparently the 45Amp ones (and maybe other higher Amp versions as well) do have them.

It appears that you need the flash adapter that goes over the chip in order to flash it.
I also read these perform quite well without flashing. There is also no calibration procedure.

 

[Homertje]

If you ever wanted to, i do have the over chip socket cable thing...
hope to see some footage made with your tri soon, also want to hear about your experience with the non-patched escs.

 

[Johan]

Yes!, finally a maiden flight

Not even at home, but on vacation in France!

Since the last update I added a cheap voltage alarm. It triggered about 20 seconds into my first flight.
Before the flight I installed the rear propeller in the front-right position and vise versa (too eager to get into the air, not thinking clearly), causing them to have reversed thrust.

While giving more throttle, I was actually pushing the booms to the ground, only front left would lift. This drained the battery I guess.

I also replaced the flimsy two orientation LEDs with a LED strip on the tail to improve visibility.

Here is my compilation:

Oh BTW: ground footage was filmed with the GoPro Hero 3 black edition, all onboard footage was done with a 808 #16 Keychain cam.

 

[Johan]

Here a picture of the finished product.

On top of the receiver is the 808 #16 Keychain cam. Seems like a good spot for the cam.
I have to be careful to mount it (velcro) as straight as possible to keep both props out of view.

In this picture I have the rear and right prop swapped, causing it to want to tilt instead of lifting off

 

[Johan]

Just added some extra 'orientation help' to my tri.



I already had it on the bottom, but noticed it is not visible from some angles, but this should do the trick



Hmm, kind of 'pimp my tri'

 

[xuzme720]

Hmm, kind of 'pimp my tri'

Still needs woofers and maybe some spinners!

 

[Johan]

Still needs woofers and maybe some spinners!

Might have to upgrade the power plant for that

 

[xuzme720]

Might have to upgrade the power plant for that

lol