Balsa USA Bristol M-1 Kit

[Ryan O.]

I got got the Evolution engine with only 3 hours of runtime, so it likely won't need many repairs. I plan to break it in a second time on the ground for good measure. Also, I've seen people run it on a glow plug, which I may do if the plane balances perfectly with only one receiver pack. If it is tail heavy, I'll get an electronic ignition, that way I have more weight in the nose. I'll also setup the control rod on the servo arm so that I get more resolution, but it won't go all the way to full travel, which I won't be needing anyways. I do think that the kit requires a servo tray, so I'll just order the one from Balsa USA. I'll be using the Miuzei standard metal gear servos, which I've had a great experience with, for the ailerons and rudder. For the Elevator I'll be using the standard size metal gear Flite Test servo for added insurance. For the covering I will use Planetex. Planetex needs Eko fill and Eko bond to work, and I still need to get those along with the wheels, copper wire, paint for the pilot, and snoopy doll. I also have to 3d print the part that attaches the prop for the dummy electric generator. The spinner will be the most challenging part because I will have to make holes in the backplate for cooling, but I will also have to make it strong enough to withstand the vibrations.

 

[Joker 53150]

Hopefully it doesn't need ANY repairs, or even a carb rebuild. I'd try it first to see if it runs well and go from there. Running with a glow plug sounds interesting, but it's something I haven't tried yet. Getting rid of the ignition module and associated hardware would be nice. Although I'm curious how you'd kill the engine if there is no ignition module or magneto & spark plug to ground out? Closing the throttle completely could do it, but if you lose signal and don't have a fail safe programmed it could get "spicy"...!

 

[Ggimlick]

I’m jealous, the BUSA Bristol kit I just started is so old it’s die crunched. It’s the second I’ve done, but 25 yrs apart. The last was electric too, but in the days of round cells. This will be 6S lipo. It’s going together well enough, but makes me appreciate laser cut kits.

 

[speedbirdted]

I actually don't mind the die crunching of most kits. With both a laser or die cutting you will end up sanding the edges away because with a laser the blackened edges can show through covering materials, so it's not like it's really any less work.

Of course, the solution that gets around all of that is doing it yourself with a scroll saw and templates

 

[Ggimlick]

I wish all kits could be cnc cut, but oh well. I just love the fit of parts that are precisely cut. The Old School Model works kits I’ve done are laser cut but require almost zero work to clean them up and the fit is great. All that being said, I’ve enjoyed working on this old BUSA kit. I also used a BabeBot glue bottle from Fastcap that is the best glue dispenser I’ve ever used. Since I’m now highly allergic to CA and epoxy (too manyyears of not being careful) I use mostly SIG Super Weld and aliphatic resins. I prefer the way Super Weld sands and a good joint is as strong as epoxy if fit and clamped well.

Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but am following the build as I do mine.

 

[Ggimlick]

Here’s my other Bristol M1c but it’s an ARF from Seagull Models. 71” span on 12S lipo power. It’s featured in the July issue of Model Airplane News

 

[Ryan O.]

The engine arrived in today, and I finished the left wing and now can move on to the right one. I plan to trim tge cowl to allow for more cooling with the largrr scale spinner.

 

[Ggimlick]

Nice, I had an Evolution 15 in a Hellcat that was flawless. It should give you way more power than you need and purr like a kitten. My electronic ignition worked great.

 

[Joker 53150]

Evo engines are interesting - people either love 'em or hate 'em. I've only got first-hand experience with a couple 8cc Evo's, but both ran incredibly well and very smooth & quiet. It feels like my 8cc Evo has more power than my 9cc NGH, although that could be from the prop or weight of the plane. Either way, I certainly prefer it over the NGH (which I also really like). Maybe it's their glow engines that people dislike?

 

[Ggimlick]

The engine arrived in today, and I finished the left wing and now can move on to the right one. I plan to trim tge cowl to allow for more cooling with the largrr scale spinner.

What are you doing for a spinner? I ordered one from the UK that hasn’t come in yet. My original kit 25 years ago came with a spinner, but BUSA quit doing them.

 

[Ryan O.]

What are you doing for a spinner? I ordered one from the UK that hasn’t come in yet. My original kit 25 years ago came with a spinner, but BUSA quit doing them.

I plan to do some testing with several DIY designs for a spinner. There will be two main types, PETG dome and wooden backplate, and PETG dome and backplate. The later would be more like the spinners the 3d Lab prints makes with a nut embedded in it for the two screws. I will also try to make a larger than scale cooling hole in the dome, and different types of holes in the backplate. If all of these blow up while testing I may just get the one you were talking about, or just go without a spinner, which the pilots often did when the weather was especially hot. One last thing, I will print the spinner with a 0.25mm nozzle at 0.05mm layer heights. I'll also use many perimeters and balance the spinner before test running. If I can get the spinner to work I'll post the files for it.

 

[Ggimlick]

Great info, thanks! Sounds like you’ve got a good plan and the way to do it. Here's the one I ordered and I still have some questions about how it’s going to work. Hopefully it’ll be here in a few days.
https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/bristol-m1-abs-spinner/

i like your idea of printing one. I considered trying to do a foam mold and glassing one, but decided to try the Sarik Hobbies version first.

 

[Ggimlick]

Another spinner option possibility, but an awfully pricey one:

https://arizonamodels.com/products/albatross-spinner

 

[OliverW]

Evo engines are interesting - people either love 'em or hate 'em. I've only got first-hand experience with a couple 8cc Evo's, but both ran incredibly well and very smooth & quiet. It feels like my 8cc Evo has more power than my 9cc NGH, although that could be from the prop or weight of the plane. Either way, I certainly prefer it over the NGH (which I also really like). Maybe it's their glow engines that people dislike?

A guy at our club had one of their glow engines and loved it. I think it honestly depends on how long you've been into glow or gas engines to get a good result

 

[Ryan O.]

Another spinner option possibility, but an awfully pricey one:

https://arizonamodels.com/products/albatross-spinner

I saw that too, it looks really nice, bur I wouldn't drop anywhere near that much money on a spinner.

 

[bracesport]

these are very cool ships - loving the thread so far.

 

[Ggimlick]

I saw that too, it looks really nice, bur I wouldn't drop anywhere near that much money on a spinner.

That was my thought too

 

[Ggimlick]

A guy at our club had one of their glow engines and loved it. I think it honestly depends on how long you've been into glow or gas engines to get a good result

Could be. I gave up glo/gas years ago and went all electric, but this Hellcat project came along for a magazine and required I use the Evo 15cc engine. I was a little nervous since it's probably been ten years since my last gas engine, but followed the break-in routine to the letter and it was just flawless. Another club member sold his Evo 20 because he said he never had anything but trouble with it. I don't know why. Maybe I just got lucky, but I sure liked that engine...then I converted it to 6S electric ;-)

 

[Ryan O.]

I am almost done with the right wing, just need to add the aileron ribs, aileron leading edge, and leading edge false ribs. Then I will check both wings for warps, and if I find any I'll fix them by puting them in a steamy area (shower at full heat) for a while, then make sure it is in the right shape and weigh it down for 24 hours. One odd thing about this kit is that I'm not supposed to sand the leading edge until the wings are epoxied together.

 

[Ggimlick]

I rough shaped mine before joining them and finished sanding the shape once joined. Don’t remember now if the manual said to do that or not. I wanted to download the newest manual to see what has changed, but BUSA doesn’t let you download digital manuals. I was too cheap to order a print version and pay shipping. I really appreciate companies that let you download a manual before buying a kit.