My aerodynamic experiment

cyclone3350

Master member
why not use monokote? or some other type of plastic covering? they come in all colours, so you won't need to paint it

I have used tissue, silkspan, Koverall, and Polyspan, glass and paint for the old school way of covering. I would definitely look into an iron type covering. A roll is of Ultracote or Monokote is about 15.00. Cheap to buy a test roll and test it to see if it is an option. The first time I did this one, I went with Polyspan and Sig dope. Last year I did a rehab on it using Monokote and to be honest, was quite pleased with the results and was able to get it back in the air in a third of the time. I did not think that I would like the shiny plastic look, but now that I did it, I am glad I went with that route this time.
 

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Matthewdupreez

Legendary member
I have used tissue, silkspan, Koverall, and Polyspan, glass and paint for the old school way of covering. I would definitely look into an iron type covering. A roll is of Ultracote or Monokote is about 15.00. Cheap to buy a test roll and test it to see if it is an option. The first time I did this one, I went with Polyspan and Sig dope. Last year I did a rehab on it using Monokote and to be honest, was quite pleased with the results and was able to get it back in the air in a third of the time. I did not think that I would like the shiny plastic look, but now that I did it, I am glad I went with that route this time.
yea.. and it should also be more durable than tissue paper... i think
 

EAS

Member
I have used tissue, silkspan, Koverall, and Polyspan, glass and paint for the old school way of covering. I would definitely look into an iron type covering. A roll is of Ultracote or Monokote is about 15.00. Cheap to buy a test roll and test it to see if it is an option. The first time I did this one, I went with Polyspan and Sig dope. Last year I did a rehab on it using Monokote and to be honest, was quite pleased with the results and was able to get it back in the air in a third of the time. I did not think that I would like the shiny plastic look, but now that I did it, I am glad I went with that route this time.

Yes thanks. If I mess up something I've never done before it's gonna be a problem, plus with the plastic coatings...it seems you must do it before installing control surfaces. The way I did my control surfaces, so that all linkage is internal, I had to install them while glueing in the ribs. There might be other way of having a completely clean wings on larger models, the way I did it work well for this size.

....and I've had good success with tissue, so I'm sticking with something I know. I'm just concerned the summer time heat will make the dope dry too fast. So I'm looking into the "wet" method of applying tissue.
 
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cyclone3350

Master member
Yes thanks. If I mess up something I've never done before it's gonna be a problem, plus with the plastic coatings...it seams you must do it before installing control surfaces. The way I did my control surfaces, so that all linkage is internal, I had to install them while glueing in the ribs. There might be other way of having a completely clean wings on larger models, the way I did it work well for this size.

....and I've had good success with tissue, so I'm sticking with something I know. I'm just concerned the summer time heat will make the dope dry too fast. So I'm looking into the "wet" method of applying tissue.

I know what U mean by your statement. I learning curve can definitely a lot more time than doing something familiar with. Keep us posted, I have been enjoying reading your build.
 

EAS

Member
Reminds me a bit of a Romulan warbird.
rom05.jpg

The, what I call, diamond wing has been around for a long time. It's my spiral shaped winglets with propulsion in the middle, that I'm investigating. You won't see those anywhere.
 

EAS

Member
Some progress while working on my Ranger's transmission. It's starting to look like what I saw in 1994. I consider myself very fortunate that I was able to bring that back and bring it into the world, such as that is.....given a second chance to build it. The small wing section at bottom right is for testing wing skin techniques. Hopefully I'll only have to built one.

most-fuse02.jpg



...putting the transmission back in tomorrow, so hopefully I'll be putting more time into finishing this model.
 
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cyclone3350

Master member
Some progress while working on my Ranger's transmission. It's starting to look like what I saw in 1994. I consider myself very fortunate that I was able to bring that back and bring it into the world, such as that is.....given a second chance to build it. The small wing section at bottom right is for testing wing skin techniques. Hopefully I'll only have to built one.

most-fuse.jpg


Admittedly at the time, I was watching this being built, and there was a lot of influence.

640px-Sj30_prototype.jpg


His career influenced me greatly though I had little to do with it, but this is from me,
not him. Airport Journals
I only share his name and hundreds of hours on the phone discussing HIS ideas on how to build airplanes. Haha, I had some ideas too.

...putting the transmission back in tomorrow, so hopefully I'll be putting more time into finishing this model.

Wow, that is coming along very well. I can almost here the whoosh from those JP's.
 

EAS

Member
... working on the spiral winglets, fininshing. Covering the wires in the ID was easy. Covering the wires on the outside, much harder.
 

EAS

Member
In order to get the CG corrected, what I'll have to do is extend the nose section an inch or inch and a half so I can put the nose-gear servo in front....of the nose-gear. Then I'll have the room to move the battery forward enough. So new nose section. I'm still going to finish it as is for some primary testing. I finally got my transmission back in my Ranger and that went well, so I can spend more time on the finish work of this model. The only things that will change for the CG is two longer linkage rods for the ailerons, a bit of minor wood to hold the nose-gear servo....and a new foam build for the nose section.
 

EAS

Member
I'm struggling a bit with wing covering now....tried nitrate dope on silkspan...on my little test wing section. First time in 25 years, unexceptable results. Only one wreckle by the trailing edge tho. A little practice will be necessary. Butyrate dope in the mail. I am considering monokote or ultracote, but I've never done it before, and one thing IS certain. There are few or no sealing irons in the supply chain. They think maybe November, but that's not certain....and I'm somewhat impatient.
 

cyclone3350

Master member
I'm struggling a bit with wing covering now....tried nitrate dope on silkspan...on my little test wing section. First time in 25 years, unexceptable results. Only one wreckle by the trailing edge tho. A little practice will be necessary. Butyrate dope in the mail. I am considering monokote or ultracote, but I've never done it before, and one thing IS certain. There are few or no sealing irons in the supply chain. They think maybe November, but that's not certain....and I'm somewhat impatient.

Sorry to hear that sealing irons R out. That has been a problem with myself I buy parts from ARF's and I am finding that almost everything I look @ is on back order.
 

Michael9865

Elite member
I'm struggling a bit with wing covering now....tried nitrate dope on silkspan...on my little test wing section. First time in 25 years, unexceptable results. Only one wreckle by the trailing edge tho. A little practice will be necessary. Butyrate dope in the mail. I am considering monokote or ultracote, but I've never done it before, and one thing IS certain. There are few or no sealing irons in the supply chain. They think maybe November, but that's not certain....and I'm somewhat impatient.

Willy Nillies has irons in stock.
https://willynillies.com/buy-here/ols/products/hangar-9-sealing-iron-special-buy
 

EAS

Member
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EAS

Member
Two views of the full winglets. There's still some work to be done on them......

arrows-winglets.jpg


I AM determined to put the vortex into the propulsion in the most advantages way.

winglets-lower-view.jpg


Later, if I decide they're over-kill, I can easily take them out with a diamond wheel on my dremel.
 

FlyerInStyle

Elite member
Two views of the full winglets. There's still some work to be done on them......

arrows-winglets.jpg


I AM determined to put the vortex into the propulsion in the most advantages way.

winglets-lower-view.jpg


Later, if I decide they're over-kill, I can easily take them out with a diamond wheel on my dremel.
Wow. cant wait to see how it looks when its all done
 
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EAS

Member
I've just purchase Hangar 9 UltraCote. The color I wanted was hard to find. The company I ordered from has a few bad reviews, but that's not unusual for any online company. KingCobraofFlorida. Two rolls and a sock for the iron. I'm still going to do my wing section with butyrate dope and make another small wing section with ultracote first, before attempting covering the wings on my project. Practice, practice. I want to do it right, first time....No matter which covering I decide on.

I think I'll work on the wire management today. I want to fire it up.
 

EAS

Member
How are you controlling yaw? Rudder or differential thrust or none?

No differential thrust. I have to start with the basics.......being my first RC, a little at a time.

Rudder and nose wheel separate, so 4 servos and the throttle. I am learning a lot and the next one with many improvements is on the board....or in planning. This one with a span of 33" nose cone to nose cone is really too small to get very complex. So version 2 will be 25 to 40% larger.

I spent some time in the '90s designing and building freeflights. I felt that was the best way to really understand aerodynamics and building. A freeflight has to be good, or it won't stay in the air. I built a mockup of this then, in 1995, but back then counter-rotation was difficult to do. So now............I'm building it.
 
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