Sig Kadet Senior build thread.
- Thread starter liamnave
- Start date
roversgonemad
Member
Some engines do recommend a break in prop. They are usually a little les pitch, meant to not work the engine quite as hard. I always run a couple tanks through a new engine, with the engine on a test stand.
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
Wow Liam nice job mate. I don't know how I missed all of this build til now. Keep up the good work bud.
Make sure you do a serious break in on your motor. OS motors are nice motors and pretty forgiving but if you want longevity a proper break in is a must No revs over half throttle for at least the first two full tanks and make sure the smoke is a blowing as you do. Specially the early runs. It will be a nasty oily mess where ever you do it so do not do it anywhere there is anything of value. you will feel the motor breaking in as starting will become easier and the motor will run cooler. Once you get a few tanks on it then start working the throttle up and down slowly again no full throttle for another few tanks as you do this. After that roughly 5 tanks total you should be fairly well set and can start working on the final tune.
Remember when using nitro motors the tune will change every flight as conditions change. You should not have to keep tuning every flight but be aware when there are extreme changes in humidity or temperature to pay attention and make sure there is plenty of smoke rolling to keep it all well oiled. Also invest in a digital thermometer. That is an invaluable tool to know what and how your engine is doing.
Make sure you do a serious break in on your motor. OS motors are nice motors and pretty forgiving but if you want longevity a proper break in is a must No revs over half throttle for at least the first two full tanks and make sure the smoke is a blowing as you do. Specially the early runs. It will be a nasty oily mess where ever you do it so do not do it anywhere there is anything of value. you will feel the motor breaking in as starting will become easier and the motor will run cooler. Once you get a few tanks on it then start working the throttle up and down slowly again no full throttle for another few tanks as you do this. After that roughly 5 tanks total you should be fairly well set and can start working on the final tune.
Remember when using nitro motors the tune will change every flight as conditions change. You should not have to keep tuning every flight but be aware when there are extreme changes in humidity or temperature to pay attention and make sure there is plenty of smoke rolling to keep it all well oiled. Also invest in a digital thermometer. That is an invaluable tool to know what and how your engine is doing.
Thanks psyborg. I probably should have read what you wrote first before trying it, especially the big oily mess part. I now have stuff on my table in the garage but oh well. So i got the engine and tried to start it. My setup was as follows, line from engine to tank, tank to muffler. I put the starter on and tried flipping it. Nothing. I did feel air coming out of the muffler tho. I also occasionally felt some fuel spaying on my skin. In the manual it say to "press the starter switch to prime the engine for 5-6 seconds" Does it mean the glow plug starter? cause I cant find any switches. I spent so much fliping time flipping the engine. Any ideas as to what I need to do to fix it?
roversgonemad
Member
You have to have a glow plug heater to start the engine. Like this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=GPMP2011&P=FR&atrkid=V3ADW3A24148B_10642245165_pla-69845187350__36556522365_g_t_pla__1o1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8-LK4qSF1gIVUVx-Ch1MTw4NEAQYASABEgJeGPD_BwE After it starts, you take it off.
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PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
Since they say press the starter to "Prime" the motor I will assume they mean an electric start set up. That is usually only on lager planes. Most nitro motors have a hand held starter system or in case of some cars and trucks a pull start system like a lawn mower.
The glow igniter stays on while you are starting the motor. For the first break in since you run it so rich I leave it on for most of the first run. you ALWAYS want to see smoke coming from the exhaust that means there is enough oil being used. if no smoke there is no top end lubrication and you can easily cease up the piston on the cylinder or even snap a wrist pin if it binds on one side.
When first starting a dry motor you will stick a finger over the exhaust port (without the igniter on) and flip the prop until you see fuel travel up the hose into the carburetor. Then flip it two or three more times. Once that is done the motor will be "Primed". Then you can stick the igniter on the glow plug and try to start the motor. If your motor has been properly broke in and tuned this should only take one or two flips to fire off and start running. Once the motor is running leave the igniter on a few seconds and you will hear a slight change in rpm as everything heats and expands thus loosening the motor. Then you can remove the glow igniter and it should stay running. Colder days will take more effort as well as high humidity days.
The glow igniter stays on while you are starting the motor. For the first break in since you run it so rich I leave it on for most of the first run. you ALWAYS want to see smoke coming from the exhaust that means there is enough oil being used. if no smoke there is no top end lubrication and you can easily cease up the piston on the cylinder or even snap a wrist pin if it binds on one side.
When first starting a dry motor you will stick a finger over the exhaust port (without the igniter on) and flip the prop until you see fuel travel up the hose into the carburetor. Then flip it two or three more times. Once that is done the motor will be "Primed". Then you can stick the igniter on the glow plug and try to start the motor. If your motor has been properly broke in and tuned this should only take one or two flips to fire off and start running. Once the motor is running leave the igniter on a few seconds and you will hear a slight change in rpm as everything heats and expands thus loosening the motor. Then you can remove the glow igniter and it should stay running. Colder days will take more effort as well as high humidity days.
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With my very limited exposure to glow, I found having a couple extra glow plugs on hand was smart, especially while learning to tune the engines and breaking them in.
roversgonemad
Member
As long as you have spare plugs, the original will never fail! That's one of the rules of glow powered flying! I always have at least 3 different temps of plug, just to be sure I won't be left plug-less!
I bought this kit new from SIG a month ago. I have a week off coming up and plan to get started. It's my first R/C kit, and I'll be learning to fly with it, joining AMA, local club, etc. Thanks for posting this. I hope to follow, benefit, and contribute when I can. Seeing as I'm a novice I can't offer any experience.
Welcome to the forums! That's an ambitious plan - and a great flying plane that can turn out as an amazing flyer! If you have the budget to afford it, it can be a good idea to start the learning to fly part on a cheap foamy plane that you won't be quite as attached too when the inevitable crashes occur. Then the awesome balsa flyer becomes a great second plane once you've got a little flying experience to really help you grow the skills.
Also, please share your perspectives as a new flyer and builder getting started in the hobby - and a lot of the questions you will have will be the same questions lots of other people have too, but might not know how to ask. So please ask away - it'll not only help you, it'll help the next reader to come along as well!
So please, come on in - the water's fine and we're happy you're here!
Also, please share your perspectives as a new flyer and builder getting started in the hobby - and a lot of the questions you will have will be the same questions lots of other people have too, but might not know how to ask. So please ask away - it'll not only help you, it'll help the next reader to come along as well!
So please, come on in - the water's fine and we're happy you're here!
I'll agree that it's an ambitious plane to start building with, but it's not overly complex. As it's your first kit I'd suggest making no changes to the design, and building it exactly as Sig shows (with whatever tweaks needed for your powerplant). The Senior is spectacular in calm skies and should be a good plane to learn to fly with, assuming you've got a buddy-box just in case. Be careful about adding too much weight and excess glue, it's not needed with this design. Good luck!
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
I just finished my first year of flying and I would definitely recommend flying a cheap foami or FT plane before your balsa build. I destroyed two cheap planes before I was good at flying, then flew 6 more foam and foam board planes before I did a balsa build that I just finished. After all that work it is nice to have the confidence as a good pilot to fly a maiden without destruction. Its a great hobby though and get ready for the balsa addiction!
