• Welcome to the new Flite Test Forum home! Please note that the migration is still undergoing and certain content, user privileges or features may be missing or limited until the transition is complete. Thank you!

*Unofficial* FT Dart

foamtest

Toothpick glider kid
#41
The servo tester isn't necessary but testing servos is. You just need to use your receiver to test them. I usually plug in my ESC into the receiver and then the servo. Plug in the battery to the esc and make sure your transmitter is on and there you go, a centered servo. Just make sure that there is no trim or sub trim on the channel that the servo is plugged into.
 
#42
The servo tester isn't necessary but testing servos is. You just need to use your receiver to test them. I usually plug in my ESC into the receiver and then the servo. Plug in the battery to the esc and make sure your transmitter is on and there you go, a centered servo. Just make sure that there is no trim or sub trim on the channel that the servo is plugged into.
Also make sure that if you haven't connected your motor yet that the ESCs motor wires NEVER touch while powered. If motors are installed then ensure props are removed. I made a small power cable that allowes me to plug any 1S battery into the receiver, any unused channel works, to use my receiver for centering servos. I have found in the past that when I centered servos with the tested I have, and then I build a plane with them and power up on the receiver the center is actually different. Hopefully the servo tester you have is better, but always good to verify with the receiver since that is the setup that will be flown.
 
#43
Jeez you'd think plywood motor pylons would be stronger... 2 broken in vid!
The motor mount itself is made of plywood. It fits tightly over a foam board nacelle. Not sure which part is failing in the video. I have scratch built one of these and have run into the problem of the plywood mounts not being available outside of the SBK.
Anyone have any ideas where to come up with the mounts?
 

Rasterize

Graphics guy that flys.
Mentor
#45
SteamPunk Dart 2.0 - Now with new orientation enhancing "Jason Vision"! ;)
FT_Dart_SteamPunk_Proof.jpg
Seriously, thanks Jason for building the Dart with my skins and flying with such skill. It is always a thrill to see your work fly. :D
 
#49
Alright, one last question. I see these amazing sticker sheets, but what about just simple paint? Is there any specific type of paint that works best with the material in the FT kits?

Edit: I just found a bunch of FT YouTube videos on it...but any tips would be helpful still!
 
Last edited:
#50
I use an airbrush for painting my planes. I tend to use the Dollar Tree Adams foam board so I prep the foam with the Minwax method (should be able to search for it on the site) and then wither use cheap Wal Mart craft paint mixed with water or actual air brush ready paints.

I fly a lot of combat at our club so I laser cut some templates for painting as I will go through several planes during the flying season.
 
#53
stunning as always Stephen, thanks for the effort. sorry i burst your bubble this morning about the "whole being able to see top bottom thing" but i can't wait to see what you come up with next.

see you next saturday.

laters,

jason ;)
 

Piva

New member
#54
beautiful skins!

So how are these skins applied? do you print them out on adhesive backed material?

Also, where can I find the 3d files for the fpv camera on this model? (sorry I'm a little new to the boards...) I checked thingiverse and saw the motor mounts, but not the camera mount.

Thanks!

P.S. My Dart is in the mail, can't wait!!!
 
Last edited:

Piva

New member
#55
Any thoughts on the best material for the 3D printed FPV nose? TPU, PLA?
I've done some testing on several different material and frankly PLA is probably fine for the camera mount. It's cheap, easy to print and relatively strong (although somewhat brittle). If heat is a concern (like with the motor mounts) you'd want to use something that can withstand more heat than PLA. PETG, nylon, abs would be my choices for an application like that. PETG is tough but not extremely rigid, readily available and cheap. Nylon is extremely tough but is a bit pricey and difficult to print (it likes to warp). And ABS would be my last choice because it's not super easy to print (it also likes to warp) and it's not very strong. It is cheap and easy to get though.

If you're looking for extreme strength, there's carbon-fiber filled nylon (NylonX), although they suggest a larger print nozzle than what is normally used on printers so that the "micro chopped" fiber doesn't clog anything up (I'm using a .6mm nozzle without issue). I've used nylonX on some parts that needed to be extremely strong, and it is definitely strong and rigid, although I'm not sure it's worth the price. I think it was $65 for 1/2 a kilo, whereas PLA is $15/kilo. Also in the super strength category is poly-carbonate which I have some of but have not printed with yet. It is supposed to be much stronger than anything else, but hard to print because of warping. A heated build chamber significantly helps with the warping issue depending on what printer you use.

Hope this helps!

I use a Prusa i3 mk2 by the way, and I've upgraded the hotend to an e3d volcano. Amazing tool!
 
#56
Ok so a power pack h is in the way and I am wondering Will a 1306 on a 3x4x3 propeler power a 20 in mini arrow ?I figured that it would but my friend does not . What do you think?
 
#57
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wy6biSK8iRE

Not sure which 1306 you are using, but this emax looks to put out about 300 grams of thrust on 3s and 430grams on 4s.

Depends on how much your plane weighs, but if you keep it light, it should fly...

You could build a dart instead of an mini arrow and just put a powerpod on the back instead of two facing forward :) I did that with a 1406 motor and it flew great!
 
#60
Could you run this with the A Twin power pack, so two EMaxx MT1806?
it would take some serious work. i think you would have to print @ 150% minimum to get enough wing to counter the weight of the motors. then you would have to make or 3D print the motor pods. i know you think the 1806's are small, but what's on the dart is stupid small and light.

laters,

me ;)