Tex,
About Torsion-springs . . . the longer the twisting section of wire, the more the same twist is spread across it's length, the less spring force it generates.
I can't see the rudder spring from your pics, but the elevator looks like it's at most an 1/8 of the span. While that would be a reasonable spring size for my larger DLGs, they also need more force than the bug and have tails built for the extra punishment. while the longer spring adds more weight, it's far less than the matching pushrod.
One other thing to consider . . . Instead of a "U" shaped spring, how about a "L" shaped? effectively take a longer U shape. then bend it in half. so long as the wire doesn't break on the sharp bend (it shouldn't . . . the first time) you'll get the spring force associated with the longer piece of wire, form a smaller assembly . . . with NO twist warping the surface.
They're a touch harder to do than the U-springs and if you're not careful about how you cut the pocket they lean out . . . but they work.
About Torsion-springs . . . the longer the twisting section of wire, the more the same twist is spread across it's length, the less spring force it generates.
I can't see the rudder spring from your pics, but the elevator looks like it's at most an 1/8 of the span. While that would be a reasonable spring size for my larger DLGs, they also need more force than the bug and have tails built for the extra punishment. while the longer spring adds more weight, it's far less than the matching pushrod.
One other thing to consider . . . Instead of a "U" shaped spring, how about a "L" shaped? effectively take a longer U shape. then bend it in half. so long as the wire doesn't break on the sharp bend (it shouldn't . . . the first time) you'll get the spring force associated with the longer piece of wire, form a smaller assembly . . . with NO twist warping the surface.
They're a touch harder to do than the U-springs and if you're not careful about how you cut the pocket they lean out . . . but they work.