Diamond D-42 Twin Star

leaded50

Legendary member
with the nacelles ready and the 3D printed cowls, it looks like this...

DSC_1029.JPG
 

leaded50

Legendary member
@leaded50 - You my friend are a building Monster! (in a good way) I really like seeing your methods. I always look at the beginning and think there's no way he's gonna... (sees next post) ...Wow, Nice!" You do good work from turning rough models to smooth beauties.

Your production of planes is amazing. My question to you (for which I need help myself) is; Where do you store these?

Do you crash and burn? or is there a secret pile of past planes? or do you confirm flight, then pass them to someone or the trash (after removing electronics.?

All that said - This model is looking great! I have a Girlfriend that might go Flying if I show up with one of these.

- my methods are coming from experience and creativity. I have time to try out :) (and enough planes to fly, anyway :LOL:)
Its about "seeing the shapes" on the plane, and how to "replicate it" in foamboard. If by a 3D view drawing, or photos, just measuring to get the correct sizes. Im just following the way i posted in a post on how. No 3d drawing app/program is used, even if PC is used. Resize the resources to the size wants, and measuring!
By that methode, i can replicate any plane, from a 3d view drawing, or enough photos in (hopefully) the similar angles. And if not get all correct fully 100%, its shown it doesnt matter, as long the main lines are there. Nobody sees the minor errors.

On the DA42 here, the end of fuselage to tailsurfaces are a bit too thick eg. I didnt liked it.. but couldnt do it otherwise, it was needed for space to make the pushrod system for the elevator on the T-tail, or evt. if later wanna have rudder too. Ive made a middle-spar at the front window to keep it "stiff enough to keep shape".. if needed with plastic window inside? I dont know, but at moment its atleast stiff enough...and anyway can be removed with window inside if thats enough.
You need find a middle-way to accomplish a build functional sometimes. AND patience! My builds isnt exactly easy ones mainly, they need a lot of work and individually adjustments to get things correct.
Many "shouts" for plans.... they are troublesome to do, my plans is a 3D view drawing (or photos). As an example, if a connection of skins doesnt fit "perfectly" when gluing, what do you do? I use knife and adjust the connections, angle, or remove , or even put in a extra bit if needed.. how to make that on Plans? Plans can never show this minor adjustments "needed" to get the build get best exterior.
On the DA42 ive also altered using three different materials, the pvc plastic foamboard (hatch/canopy - reinforcing for landinggear) and in skins standard foamboard, pluss "Kappafix" a foamboard type who is more like a foamed "swamp"-style. Its more easy bendable/flexible, can easyer be shaped even both ways a bit, but not as rigid as the standard foamboard. But great for some parts for making difficult parts. As on the rear of fuselage behind the cockpit its shaped not as a straight sided cone, but curbed. exaggerated, you can say its from the cocpit and back a "S-shaped" design lines, that can be done "easy" by the Kappafix, not by normal foamboard. Something i learned when working with tests before building the Moonbat XP-67

When stuck medicined, its more than enough hours who wants the mind think of something ells, call it building planes is my therapy. Its cheap anyway, and if see later when in better shape, just to adjust, or dump it!.
I live as single in a smaller appartment..that would say, its planes all over! :LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:
Crash and burn happends on some, some few are also passed to others... and some still awaiting the maiden, when hopefully get better shape, and "dare" to risk the plane ;). im not an experienced pilot! My local airfield isnt short enough grass, so some needs launched by hand..... and that coordination dont always go good... (i know i need make a bungee launcher!!)

Thanks for the preciation on the build @FoamyDM
 
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leaded50

Legendary member
I had a plan also make the nacelles fully 3D printed, not just the cowls... but i couldnt find files with correct design... and my skills in making such designfiles my self, isnt there (yet, at least :)) but im happy with the outcome on them as on the build.
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
Many "shouts" for plans.... they are troublesome to do, my plans is a 3D view drawing (or photos). As an example, if a connection of skins doesnt fit "perfectly" when gluing, what do you do? I use knife and adjust the connections, angle, or remove , or even put in a extra bit if needed.. how to make that on Plans? Plans can never show this minor adjustments "needed" to get the build get best exterior.

When stuck medicined, its more than enough hours who wants the mind think of something ells, call it building planes is my therapy. Its cheap anyway My local airfield isnt short enough grass, so some needs launched by hand..... and that coordination dont always go good... (i know i need make a bungee launcher!!)

Thanks for the preciation on the build @FoamyDM

I see a fellow avid builder and anyone who can regularly outdo my pace, my hat is off to you. Plus you are yielding result I want to end up with. My methods do well but they don't have the final polish your do when completed. Again trying to absorb here. I always look forward to what you are working on.

I have noticed you get hung up less on the electronic install. Any secrets there?

I used the same method of therapy after my baby-momma and I split. (We weren't married and it was for the better). I did the other therapy too. You are right, plane therapy is cheaper in the short haul. Long haul...i'm not so sure.

We both need that Bungie launcher. (I need the ramp).

My methods are cad based because of the call for plans. If in the design, I can produce a plan set to reproduce my model... Awesome! But it does limit me, as I don't have the curving cone, from plan to plane down yet. Not always. Was that lightweight spackle (not joint compound) you use to smooth and harden after sanding to shape?

In the summer I live the 'single' life. And I will admit this focus feels better than dwelling on regrets, ills or mistakes. And being inspired and hopeful about what we are trying to create is a much better feeling.

I suppose this is a thanks for the detailed response. I am forever watching your builds
 

leaded50

Legendary member
I see a fellow avid builder and anyone who can regularly outdo my pace, my hat is off to you. Plus you are yielding result I want to end up with. My methods do well but they don't have the final polish your do when completed. Again trying to absorb here. I always look forward to what you are working on.

I have noticed you get hung up less on the electronic install. Any secrets there?

I used the same method of therapy after my baby-momma and I split. (We weren't married and it was for the better). I did the other therapy too. You are right, plane therapy is cheaper in the short haul. Long haul...i'm not so sure.

We both need that Bungie launcher. (I need the ramp).

My methods are cad based because of the call for plans. If in the design, I can produce a plan set to reproduce my model... Awesome! But it does limit me, as I don't have the curving cone, from plan to plane down yet. Not always. Was that lightweight spackle (not joint compound) you use to smooth and harden after sanding to shape?

In the summer I live the 'single' life. And I will admit this focus feels better than dwelling on regrets, ills or mistakes. And being inspired and hopeful about what we are trying to create is a much better feeling.

I suppose this is a thanks for the detailed response. I am forever watching your builds

Thanks FoamyDM. Im a guy that many times go "full in" when something interest me, as this hobby too, designs.
But i wouldnt say anyway im better than others, i just have an idea, and "stribe" to get to that goal :)

Electronics... they are there! :ROFLMAO::LOL: ha,ha. I dont focus much on it on the presentations of builds. Everybody knows whats needed to get control their planes. Some i mount servos, pushrods, servo cabel extensions when building, on others after. It depends on the build, and where its best to place it. As on the DA-42 here, i wants the servos under the canopy.. at least the elevator. Im unsure about placement of ailerons servos yet... and anyway they are in order, awaiting delivery. Im going for 5- 7g servos in wings there, or a singel 9g in cockpit if find out good enough way to control the ailerons.
But no secrets in electronics... i use mainly Flysky parts, because got a load of new recivers cheaply, and have Flysky TX´s from earlier... even if by the "more developed" builds i use a open tx Nirvana. Servos is some cheap "china", some Dynams from a shop with "loads of Dynam parts" on storage, for let out price :). Motors Bangood and Aliex mainly, by a few brands. Extras, where i can find it, and is reasonable effort to get, by Germany,Asia, UK or US.

I use a "Superlight sparkle" (wall filler) from a Scandinavian store chain. Cheap, but nice in use. Only trouble is there, as on any parts where the foam itself should get paint, it dulles a bit. Thats fixed by using a layer of sanded waterthinned woodglue sanded light before paint, or a filler paint light sanded before painted to "close it". Most primers eats foam as f***, so not in use.
And i use reagular cheap spraypaint mainly, some with clearcoat , some without. Even used interior waterpaint on some.. by use of clearcoat at end, its no problem.

Yeah.. somethings the mind needs to try concentrate on, then just the sickness shit :cautious: For me, this have been more or less, the "salvage" since earlier stuff im mostly not capable doing anymore, because of health. You know, i have 400 meters to modelflying field... ist close to 6d since last time been there, and that time i wasnt even in shape to try flying something. I have approx. .5 kilometers to a great beach by a lake, superb for waterplanes.... not been in shape to gone there more than one time this year yet :cautious:. to the airfield its a local road , mostly even a private road, there i can take sometimes chance to drive, even if have some medicination inside (depends on shape) .... to that lake.. no! Im going for a new operation on hospital in approx a week again, 4 months since last time.... and possible i need do that each 4 months further on... that give a better "life" after, but just short terms before starting get worser again..and new operation... GRRR.
Such is life, shit happends..... ;)
 
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leaded50

Legendary member
first contrast paint check. Its easy see its imperfections in the surfaces. (whiter)
you DONT try remove anyone for a superb sleek paint. This is a hopbbyplane, supposedly easy can get chrashed, and you dont need any superb surfaces a couple feets away. Point is to just reduce it, get the sharp "wrinkles/edges" smoothed out. if are some minor bumps/dents type doesnt matter, to do that will just give more weight, lots of distressing loads of work. Feeled over by the hand, moved in different angles/speed, its possible feel the surface errors. If sanding a bit your skin, it will even get it more sensitive.
here at front, its NOT much point in prepare surfaces for better sleek shaping without two places. (where arrows are) one have a flat point at curbed place against a skin-connection. The second a triangleshaped bump, with only one straight side at a skin connection, that gives a imperfection showing up more than a plain bump. . That shows its a bump who is "cutted" by a straight side at the connection. ....
Diamond_k.png
Points is more to reduce/remove possibillity for irregulation of paintshine, by exposed pure foam, edges of paper, filler, eg. A minor touch up with some waterthinned woodglue at such places, lets dry completly and a short fine sanding after, and its ok for paint!
 
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FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
First off, Good luck with the surgeries. Don't sweat field time. When the time is ripe you sound like you have many close options.

I will have to try your methods of repairing defects with sandpaper spackle and water-thinned woodglue. Do you put a seal coat with the wood glue or the whole plane or just exposed foam or spackle?

What I meant about the electronics is... They slow my progress down for some reason. You seem to push through is all.
It's looking great.
 

leaded50

Legendary member
First off, Good luck with the surgeries. Don't sweat field time. When the time is ripe you sound like you have many close options.

I will have to try your methods of repairing defects with sandpaper spackle and water-thinned woodglue. Do you put a seal coat with the wood glue or the whole plane or just exposed foam or spackle?

What I meant about the electronics is... They slow my progress down for some reason. You seem to push through is all.
It's looking great.
mostly woodglue at just exposed foam, paperedges, and where sparkle is used.

Electronics takes time yes.... im stuck here now on the DA42. I jhave done ready to mount "torsion rods" for ailerons..... well, i forgot it in planning when made the reinforcing for the rear landing wheels....its glued in good with 2K epoxy, and is not of foam.. and no posibillity to drill a hole in, 70mm from a edge at a angle :oops::cautious: its gonna be smaller servos in the wings where ailerons are!! :ROFLMAO:
 

leaded50

Legendary member
I'd Like to see a bigger version of this. 1.5m maybe? That would be really cool.
well, normally i see around 1000mm + is nice on storage, in car, eg.... but i agree on that wingspan did made fuselage smaller than thought.
And since also wings doesnt have a broad wingroot, it feels smaller than beleived. 500mm more wouldnt do so much though (without storage space, eg.). Fuselage would still be under 1000mm :)
 

leaded50

Legendary member
my solution on the T-tail elevator movement. I know this have functioned before, and didnt see problems use same function here. The pushrod from the rotation point down into fuselage just "stuck up" through the elevator with up and down movement, and now get a bend 90 degrees (at correct place, decided by movement) a tube is pushed on for free rotation, and glued down with 2K epoxy into a groove at the elevator surface.
When i now drag or push on the pushrod in rear of cockpit, elevator goes up & down
Functionality done!

DSC_1031.JPG
 

leaded50

Legendary member
Incredible my friend! You just keep raising the bar. Cant wait to see it in the air!
Thanks! "horrible" enough... i have one motor here who is "shot", and needed order a new one... hopefully dont take too much time. Or if crash something ells, perhaps can take that motors :sneaky:
 

Scotto

Elite member
That is beautiful! Not many planes are worthy of that copper color paint but that one wears it well! And the pinstriping and the winglets:love: Fantastic. Well done(y)