Mini Telemaster Kit-Bashing
- Thread starter rockyboy
- Start date
Got any orange covering for a pinstripe to really blend it all together with the A&W logo?
Mounting servos ... I really like using a ball and link style chain to fish servo wires through - so much easier than trying to push a wire in 
Mixing up a small batch of epoxy to glue in the hinges with my favorite tool - a broken prop! Make sure to add a drop of oil to the hinge pin before starting, put epoxy in the slot on the surface, and then insert the hinge. And only do one side of the hinge at a time.
Fast forward to after dinner, and putting the other side of the hinges into the wing.
And a little more epoxy to mount the tail. Even without the magnetic building board, the right angle supports are useful to keep things aligned here.
When I woke up this morning, I realized that I probably need to add a piece of triangle stock for support on either side of this joint. I'll try shaping and covering it first, and then peeling up a little more covering from the tail and gluing it in place. Not worried about in flight performance here, but I do want to make it a little more resistant to hangar rash.
Mixing up a small batch of epoxy to glue in the hinges with my favorite tool - a broken prop! Make sure to add a drop of oil to the hinge pin before starting, put epoxy in the slot on the surface, and then insert the hinge. And only do one side of the hinge at a time.
Fast forward to after dinner, and putting the other side of the hinges into the wing.
And a little more epoxy to mount the tail. Even without the magnetic building board, the right angle supports are useful to keep things aligned here.
When I woke up this morning, I realized that I probably need to add a piece of triangle stock for support on either side of this joint. I'll try shaping and covering it first, and then peeling up a little more covering from the tail and gluing it in place. Not worried about in flight performance here, but I do want to make it a little more resistant to hangar rash.
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PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
Looking good Rockyboy!
Would it be easier to maybe do guide wires or struts like on older planes instead so you dont add resistance to air flow around the rudder or interfere with elevator authority on such a light aircraft? That would also keep a more scale look too I would think.
Not to mention it would task you doing the work with tiny wires and shaky hands and granny glasses.
Would it be easier to maybe do guide wires or struts like on older planes instead so you dont add resistance to air flow around the rudder or interfere with elevator authority on such a light aircraft? That would also keep a more scale look too I would think.
Not to mention it would task you doing the work with tiny wires and shaky hands and granny glasses.
In my opinion you really don't need guide wires or extra bracing from the vertical to horizontal stabilizers. The surfaces aren't huge and don't see a lot of force in flight. In the hangar may be a different story...! I'd just go as-is.
Good to know - probably wait on this extra reinforcement till post-maiden flight then.
Thanks!
Solid point, especially when you're putting extra material all the way at the tail on a lightweight airframe. I forget what size battery the design calls for but I found a 1500 3 cell works great, or a 1300 3 cell with a couple extra fender washers for nose weight works well for mine.
I'm almost ready to start balancing too. I've got a handful of 3s1800 and 3s1300 options in the battery box, and will try to go with the lighter one if it will balance without adding dead weight. If I've got to add weight, I'd rather keep it functional carrying extra pixies.
I was also looking at two ECS options in my drawer, a two year old traditional 20a w/ linear BEC and a multi-rotor 28a ESC that was less than half the size and weight. Even with adding a 3a standalone BEC it's amazing how much lighter and smaller the electronics are that have been designed for / driven by the quadcopter market.
I was also looking at two ECS options in my drawer, a two year old traditional 20a w/ linear BEC and a multi-rotor 28a ESC that was less than half the size and weight. Even with adding a 3a standalone BEC it's amazing how much lighter and smaller the electronics are that have been designed for / driven by the quadcopter market.
Depending on the weight of your covering you may find the 1800 balances it better than the 1300. I've even used a 2200 3 cell in mine and it still flew nicely. Heck, it arguably flew better as it was able to handle more wind. Mine is on the short-list of planes I want to bring back to FTFF.
Here's a learn from my mistakes moment. When you are planning to installed a fancy steerable tailwheel bracket make sure to reinforce the tail surface it screws into before covering. At this point I'm going to drip CA in my 4 screw holes and see if it holds up. If it tears out iy wont be much damage or too difficult to repair.
It does look pretty nice all assembled though..
So the final wheels are about an inch smaller than these, half the thickness, and arriving in a few days. Otherwise all thats left is radio setup and battery strap - she's balanced out fine with a 3s1800 up front.
It does look pretty nice all assembled though..
So the final wheels are about an inch smaller than these, half the thickness, and arriving in a few days. Otherwise all thats left is radio setup and battery strap - she's balanced out fine with a 3s1800 up front.
jaredstrees
Well-known member
Well done, Sir. Looks great. Looking forward to seeing its STOL capabilities!
