NOOB Nation..Building Towards Flitefest 2023

Yankee2003

Well-known member
Motto…..Perfection is the enemy of completion.
Goal…. Build two Master Series aircraft that look great on the low pass (not necessarily close up) to take to Flitefest 2023. Also build one Bloody Baron that is combat ready on day one, with two Bloody Baron airframes with servos installed to fill in as needed, with a goal to participate in EVERY combat session during FF 2023.
Document the next 10 months of experimenting, flying and creating easy, repeatable steps for everyone that wants to build, fly and enjoy beautiful and affordable rc aircraft.
Short term goals is to use household items and box store house paints to airbrush awesome paint schemes. Create easy methods to incorporate homemade waterslide decals that uses standard inkjet printers. Create a personal, easy, airbrush gradient paint scheme to use on each model. Canopies that enhance and not take away from the look of the final airframe.
Use of items, tools and methods that are accessible to the beginner. I will endeavor to stay away from 3-D printed items, Calli Graphics or vinyl cutters.
It maybe naive..but I want to create a Master Series Spitfire for under $125. PNP without receiver or battery.
Follow along and contribute. I will spend multiple airframes and many hours in the hope that in the end I will inspire and encourage people to advance their building skills on a family budget.
This build thread will take us from the beginning of experimentation, to the packing list to Flitefest 2023. No experience necessary. Let me make the mistakes for you.
 

Mr NCT

Site Moderator
Ambitious goals, I applaud you. I'm with you on the canopy quest. I printed one for the Spitfire I just completed but there should be a way to heat and mold water bottle plastic. Especially since it is so light and plentiful.
 

Yankee2003

Well-known member
Ambitious goals, I applaud you. I'm with you on the canopy quest. I printed one for the Spitfire I just completed but there should be a way to heat and mold water bottle plastic. Especially since it is so light and plentiful.

It only sounds ambitious. Sure there will be a lot of mistakes, but even the mistakes will fly good. The finishing aspect is just fluff…..lipstick on a pig. The goal really breaks down to impressions. An artist doesn’t have to make a tree….they just have to make an image that reminds us of a tree. I don’t have to build a Spitfire….my goal is to paint and finish a shape that will remind Someone of a spitfire. I want to build a skill set that is easy and repeatable with common materials….in the spirit of Flite Test. Give the observer the right impression and let their imagination fill in the gaps.
Many of the builders on this forum already create beautiful aircraft, using a number of incredible building and finishing techniques. So none of this is new. This is more of a journey to cobble a number of ideas together without foam cutters, 3D printers, or expensive lasers and mail order insignia. For the Noob like myself the challenge is to get to a satisfactory level that is quick enough to enjoy a lot of flight time, and cheap enough to enjoy a lot of different aircraft. What is that going to end up looking like? That is what the next 10 months will reveal.
Sounds easy enough…problem is….I’m no artist.

51BF64A3-A05E-4386-B580-62377137D061.jpeg
This is a stock Poster board FT P-40 canopy. I used Tamiya tape to mask off a “frame”. Then just used a black base paint and a gradual gradient of blue, blue green and white. Didn’t have to even clean the airbrush between colors. After masking it took maybe fifteen minutes.
Not a real canopy….but the beginnings of a good impression of one.
Quick, easy and cheap…but pretty effective. Enough to spark someone’s imagination.
Should be fun.
Thanks for checking in.
 

Yankee2003

Well-known member
It starts here…
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Mr NCT….”Ambitious goals..”.
As I prepare to begin, and contemplate how I will document the costs,I will 100% agree with you. I have to concede that a lot of hidden cost are involved to be fair. Start up cost are deceivingly high. Cutting mat, cutting knives and extra blades, glue gun, glue sticks and a number of other tools, adhesives, tapes, and an airbrush. Most of these items run the gamut in costs. From cheap and soon to be upgraded to the upgraded versions that have been replaced over the years. I won’t even get into, batteries, receivers, transmitters…😕.

Why don’t more kids get involved in the RC hobby? Maybe the same reason new father/mothers don’t. Maybe the same reason we hear…”I am just getting back in the hobby after being out of it for years..”

So as I report costs I will ask for mercy up front. Can you build a Master Series Spitfire for $125 …we’ll see. I concede the answer will undoubtably be shrouded in the smoke and mirrors, and controversy of the hidden costs of a start up workspace.

If nothing else….be entertained, amused and perhaps educated. Better yet, as you follow and participate, find your own repeatable and economically viable method, and ideas to building your Foamboard aircraft. But let’s not waste the time we have to prepare for Flightfest 2023. The clock is ticking…..
 

Yankee2003

Well-known member
Obviously with a C pack costing $80 and a Master Series Spitfire SBK costing $55 ($135 for both), it would be impossible to build a MS Spitfire for $125. Paint alone will probably cost $25. So the Spitfire will have to be built from plans.
Using Hondo76251 ideas about taking a SBK and tracing it out to get aircraft parts, I used that to save a bit of time from printing out plans. For two reasons…time and it sounded like a really cool idea I wanted to try.
I have started with the FT Spitfire as a practice platform to develop some experience before I tackle the Master Series.
558CF3C8-5424-4453-91C4-33A046BDEA89.jpeg
FT spitfire SBK $35 (on sale) ….4 sheets of FTWRFB…approx $8. This is where I hope to capture the main cost of finishing the aircraft.

Here is something that I found out works really well. You can clean out the cavity slots very easily with a small flat head screwdriver.
Doesn’t damage the paper underneath. It’s the perfect width.

31BEECEC-DE84-4970-9375-FEB02ADF651C.jpeg
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
So as I report costs I will ask for mercy up front. Can you build a Master Series Spitfire for $125 …we’ll see. I concede the answer will undoubtably be shrouded in the smoke and mirrors, and controversy of the hidden costs of a start up workspace.
This is my first Nickel on the subject (2¢ doesn't very far any more)
This video convinced me to get started as I reviewed the costs (at the time) and found them accurate but not the best start.
I submit Walmart has Big mats for less than the Art stores, and... you don't need a large one to start... or one at all (cardboard) Adtech Glue Gun has overheated my glue for years. Glue stick from Walmart are the best price for bulk (technically there are glue guns, and glue sticks (small and low temp) at the Dollar Tree. This would be for the "let me see if I want to spend *real* money on this" pricing. Landscaping wire for Pushrods (stolen are free but 100 are $10, Dental floss/picks for horns ($1). (or free un-loaded Gift cards. (or used ones. beware, there are paper ones now) Tape... Dollar tree has Short rolls of thin 3m packing tape... for a get-in project maybe. Needle nose Pliers, electronics screw and ball-hex set. (helpful)
Lastly, and this is the budget buster the TX Rx combo. (for entry seem to be Hands down the FlySky I6x $60 gets you in.
Batteries. $10 for the Tx, $20/25 for a 2200 3s.
So it mostly comes down to Motor ESC prop setup (orange 2212 1400kv with 8x6($) or Better yet APC9x4.5 ($$) are super inexpensive but limited (3S). To Begin and learn with, my opinion they are perfect. ...or step up to a bigger motor (less likely to overheat) for a *little* more
1659018011209.png
1659017936607.png


crud, sorry, did I jump the gun. It is something I always struggle with when enticing lookers to try it for themselves.

Lastly I have heard a number of Plans concerns. some plane plans (if chosen carefully) do not need printing. @jkennedy has a number of pictures on his, the one sheet no waste wing plans are measurement based. so, not needed on all models. Master build... yeah you need the plans printed, (or a kit leftover mask)

all this to say... I think you can do it.
Flightfest 2023. The clock is ticking…..[/QUOTE]
Correction "FliteFest" and you are right. it sounds slow now tick...tick...tick, but soon it will be, "tick tick tick." but you have the ARCN Support. Good topic, and I will encourage those listening, and reading this to add to this, where they can.
 

Yankee2003

Well-known member
This is my first Nickel on the subject (2¢ doesn't very far any more)
This video convinced me to get started as I reviewed the costs (at the time) and found them accurate but not the best start.
I submit Walmart has Big mats for less than the Art stores, and... you don't need a large one to start... or one at all (cardboard) Adtech Glue Gun has overheated my glue for years. Glue stick from Walmart are the best price for bulk (technically there are glue guns, and glue sticks (small and low temp) at the Dollar Tree. This would be for the "let me see if I want to spend *real* money on this" pricing. Landscaping wire for Pushrods (stolen are free but 100 are $10, Dental floss/picks for horns ($1). (or free un-loaded Gift cards. (or used ones. beware, there are paper ones now) Tape... Dollar tree has Short rolls of thin 3m packing tape... for a get-in project maybe. Needle nose Pliers, electronics screw and ball-hex set. (helpful)
Lastly, and this is the budget buster the TX Rx combo. (for entry seem to be Hands down the FlySky I6x $60 gets you in.
Batteries. $10 for the Tx, $20/25 for a 2200 3s.
So it mostly comes down to Motor ESC prop setup (orange 2212 1400kv with 8x6($) or Better yet APC9x4.5 ($$) are super inexpensive but limited (3S). To Begin and learn with, my opinion they are perfect. ...or step up to a bigger motor (less likely to overheat) for a *little* more
View attachment 228821 View attachment 228820

crud, sorry, did I jump the gun. It is something I always struggle with when enticing lookers to try it for themselves.

Lastly I have heard a number of Plans concerns. some plane plans (if chosen carefully) do not need printing. @jkennedy has a number of pictures on his, the one sheet no waste wing plans are measurement based. so, not needed on all models. Master build... yeah you need the plans printed, (or a kit leftover mask)

all this to say... I think you can do it.
Flightfest 2023. The clock is ticking…..
Correction "FliteFest" and you are right. it sounds slow now tick...tick...tick, but soon it will be, "tick tick tick." but you have the ARCN Support. Good topic, and I will encourage those listening, and reading this to add to this, where they can.[/QUOTE]

Thank you brother…I appreciate the support and participation.
Plus the idea of looking outside FliteTest for electronics….seems obvious…now.🤔
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
Correction "FliteFest" and you are right. it sounds slow now tick...tick...tick, but soon it will be, "tick tick tick." but you have the ARCN Support. Good topic, and I will encourage those listening, and reading this to add to this, where they can.

Thank you brother…I appreciate the support and participation.
Plus the idea of looking outside FliteTest for electronics….seems obvious…now.🤔
I am trying to price it out... with TX and Batt.? I am hard pressed. Esp. if you include build-shop setup like a Soldering gun too. ($40-$70 for a usable model)
I quickly looked at a 6S speed build for a similar price point to get in and FAST... but I think the floor (with everything) is ~$200. I will help where I can.
 
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Yankee2003

Well-known member
The wing went together very quickly. I followed the video for the wing build. I am building with a C pack so the servos are 9g FT and the long extensions are the ones provided. With all the curves most of each wing half was cut out freehand. I was a little apprehensive but the fit is quite good. It makes me feel better about building from a plan.
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Before moving on I am going to fight the urge to start on to the fuselage. I am going to seal the edges…probable try using an iron…and scuff up the surface while it is easy to handle. I used hot glue for the entire wing. My plan is to use some of the other ideas on the forum for the fuselage. Specifically trying to cut some areas out of the underside of the fuselage, gorilla glue for the areas aft of the cg, and maybe removing some paper aft of the cg as well. Build light as they say.
Check back to see how that goes.
 

Ligbaer

50 Percenter
Ive seen the soda bottle method used several times for a canopy and I see a,or of good results from it.
they use balsa wood and balsa is quite expensive at the I bet you could use xps covering tape or something similar
not sure about heat though
 

Yankee2003

Well-known member
As a side note. FT P-40…built from tiled plans taped together, using a C pack from a combat destroyed Bloody Baron was going to be the electronics donor for this aircraft.
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But it flew too good! Took it out yesterday. I was needing the electronics today.
Three successful overhand launches and (I had to try it), one successful underhand launch. I underhand launched it expecting to destroy it…nope. Flew amazing.
Recycled C pack and three sheets of the cheap DTFB…pretty great.
This might be a good tip….build a cheap beater to practice hand launching…great confidence booster.
 

Yankee2003

Well-known member
Ive seen the soda bottle method used several times for a canopy and I see a,or of good results from it.
they use balsa wood and balsa is quite expensive at the I bet you could use xps covering tape or something similar
not sure about heat though

Spoiler…..I have been experimenting with cheap and easy “ one time“ plugs.
Turns out that potatoes are sandable and hold up well to a heat gun. More on that at a later date. 😉
Yep…We’re going deep……
Thanks for participating.
 

Yankee2003

Well-known member
Just to make sure and answer questions that might arise from Noob builders.
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These are the items I used to iron down the edges of the wing. Then I sealed the bare foam edges with the Titebond glue. I apply this in two very, very thin coats about an hour apart. I do this primarily to keep from making the edges too wet and eliminate the chance of glueing a movable surface like an aileron. The hinge was hot glue protected by the Flite Test method…but I seal edges of the slot cut through with the Titebond. After the the Titebond has dried completely….the next day…I roughed up the wing with the steel wool.
This seems easier with the wing unattached.