im new here, and im planning a quadcopter build, but im a noob xD

Legolessed

New member
im building a 130mm quadcopter but i need help choosing parts.

I have been watching flitetest for a couple of years now and love their content. they helped get me into radio controller planes and quadcopters. I have been building scratchbuilt planes for a while now but I'm attempting to make my first quadcopter. this is what I have come up with, advice would be very much appreciated!

frame * *qav 130mm** https://www.banggood.com/Liantian-L...opter-Multicopter-p-1025924.html?rmmds=search *$9.80
*
motors *racerstar 1104 ** https://www.banggood.com/4-X-Racers...150-RC-Multirotor-p-1120434.html?rmmds=search *$32.99
*
props * *dalprop 3045** https://www.banggood.com/2-Pairs-DA...50-RC-Multirotors-p-1056443.html?rmmds=search *$2.80
*
esc * *t6a esc's** https://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1777 *$5.96
*
flight controller** *6dof naze32** https://www.banggood.com/DALRC-NAZE...r-for-Multicopter-p-1020774.html?rmmds=search *$11.99
*
battery * *800mah 2s** https://www.banggood.com/Dualsky-XP...-JST-Lipo-Battery-p-1044079.html?rmmds=search *$5.99
*
Rx/TX fs-i6 and ia6 6channel reciever

thank you so much and I hope you have a fantastic day!
 
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cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
Thanks for that ElectriSean. I am rebuilding my WarpQuad and all I have on the shelf is a Naze32 (rev5). I think I'll go with that Lux clone... :)
 

Legolessed

New member
I'd recommend against the Naze32, they are very outdated. I'd suggest the Lux clone here: https://www.banggood.com/LUX-32-bit...Multirotor-Racing-p-1060964.html?rmmds=search or the Acro version of this SPF3 clone: https://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-NA...Multirotor-Racing-p-1010232.html?rmmds=search. They cost a little more, but they are a bit more future proof, the Naze is probably soon to be unsupported by Betaflight.

ok I'm out of the loop, I thought naze 32 was still considered newish just a cheap version of the newer ones. the first link you posted is very confusing, I cant find any of the motor solder points
 

Legolessed

New member
I'd recommend against the Naze32, they are very outdated. I'd suggest the Lux clone here: https://www.banggood.com/LUX-32-bit...Multirotor-Racing-p-1060964.html?rmmds=search or the Acro version of this SPF3 clone: https://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-NA...Multirotor-Racing-p-1010232.html?rmmds=search. They cost a little more, but they are a bit more future proof, the Naze is probably soon to be unsupported by Betaflight.

my main question is whether this combo will be enough power. I'm probably going to do be using the acro version of the flight controller in the second link. will the motors in the original link with these props be enough?https://www.banggood.com/Tarot-33In...lticopter-4-Pairs-p-1041782.html?rmmds=search
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
From what I can see the FC change that was recommended, esc, and motor combination you have chosen will work well together. How ever the battery you are looking at with 25c is kind low power to run four motors in a 130mm frame. Will be ok for the Gremlin 2 inch builds with the same motor and esc sizes as they are far lighter but I think they will be to weak for a 3 incher. Yes it will fly on that but performance will suffer and the battery will get hammered pretty fast with all the stress.
 

ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
ok I'm out of the loop, I thought naze 32 was still considered newish just a cheap version of the newer ones. the first link you posted is very confusing, I cant find any of the motor solder points

The Naze uses an F1 processor, which is really on the verge of being able to run betaflight at all, it's just too slow. The ESC signals on the Lux are at the 4 corners, labelled 1,2,3,4. The best part of the Lux is it's layout, if you look at the pics in the bangood link, or at the manual for the original it's really really nice.

One thing you didn't link was a PDB. SOmething like this: https://www.banggood.com/Realacc-HU...DB-with-XT60-Plug-p-1085412.html?rmmds=search with the OSD is nice, or the more basic https://www.banggood.com/Matek-Syst...or-RC-Multirotors-p-1049051.html?rmmds=search

I'm not really sure about your motor/prop combo, I've never built a 3" machine.
 

Legolessed

New member
The Naze uses an F1 processor, which is really on the verge of being able to run betaflight at all, it's just too slow. The ESC signals on the Lux are at the 4 corners, labelled 1,2,3,4. The best part of the Lux is it's layout, if you look at the pics in the bangood link, or at the manual for the original it's really really nice.

One thing you didn't link was a PDB. SOmething like this: https://www.banggood.com/Realacc-HU...DB-with-XT60-Plug-p-1085412.html?rmmds=search with the OSD is nice, or the more basic https://www.banggood.com/Matek-Syst...or-RC-Multirotors-p-1049051.html?rmmds=search

I'm not really sure about your motor/prop combo, I've never built a 3" machine.

So I need a power distribution board and how do they work. Does it mean that my ESC power wires plug into that instead of into the flight controller? Those pdb boards are pretty expensive in terms of the total price of the quad. Is there any flight controller like the lux board that supports up to a 2s being directly connected to it that also supports ppm reciever? The ia6 doesn't support sbus and I'd rather get a cheap $10 sbus reciever than get a pwd and just get the lux board. That way if only be paying $5 extra rather than $12 extra if I go for a dedicated pdb board
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
Your ESCs need full battery power.

Your Flight Controller does not.

You have to connect your ESCs to full battery power AND to the flight controller. ESCs do NOT get power from the flight controller.

You can build a wire harness that runs power from the lipo to the ESCs or you can use a PDB to power your ESCs. Some flight controllers can handle full lipo power but you still have to wire that power from the lipo to the flight controller either with a PDB or your own wiring harness.

I like PDBs for FPV quads and I build my own harness for LOS quads. This is what a homemade wiring harness looks like.
https://vimeo.com/89350073

PDBs make your build simpler, cleaner and often come with a step down voltage regulator so you don't have to source your own.
 

Legolessed

New member
From what I can see the FC change that was recommended, esc, and motor combination you have chosen will work well together. How ever the battery you are looking at with 25c is kind low power to run four motors in a 130mm frame. Will be ok for the Gremlin 2 inch builds with the same motor and esc sizes as they are far lighter but I think they will be to weak for a 3 incher. Yes it will fly on that but performance will suffer and the battery will get hammered pretty fast with all the stress.

If I use this battery I can still have a 3.7-3.8 thrust ratio Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/262089201449

My motors output 358 grams of thrust when factoring in the weight of the motors and the rest of my quadcopter weighs 96 grams
 

Legolessed

New member
Your ESCs need full battery power.

Your Flight Controller does not.

You have to connect your ESCs to full battery power AND to the flight controller. ESCs do NOT get power from the flight controller.

You can build a wire harness that runs power from the lipo to the ESCs or you can use a PDB to power your ESCs. Some flight controllers can handle full lipo power but you still have to wire that power from the lipo to the flight controller either with a PDB or your own wiring harness.

I like PDBs for FPV quads and I build my own harness for LOS quads. This is what a homemade wiring harness looks like.
https://vimeo.com/89350073

PDBs make your build simpler, cleaner and often come with a step down voltage regulator so you don't have to source your own.

I put everything in, this should be good? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19GLvjC8xJP5ZeiYP4-5ILE4iNt2_e6HF_V6VJ4SWy2g/edit?usp=sharing
 

Legolessed

New member
From what I can see the FC change that was recommended, esc, and motor combination you have chosen will work well together. How ever the battery you are looking at with 25c is kind low power to run four motors in a 130mm frame. Will be ok for the Gremlin 2 inch builds with the same motor and esc sizes as they are far lighter but I think they will be to weak for a 3 incher. Yes it will fly on that but performance will suffer and the battery will get hammered pretty fast with all the stress.

I put in a 35c continuous discharge battery in their instead of the 20c one I had before. this is my build https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19GLvjC8xJP5ZeiYP4-5ILE4iNt2_e6HF_V6VJ4SWy2g/edit?usp=sharing
 

Legolessed

New member
The Naze uses an F1 processor, which is really on the verge of being able to run betaflight at all, it's just too slow. The ESC signals on the Lux are at the 4 corners, labelled 1,2,3,4. The best part of the Lux is it's layout, if you look at the pics in the bangood link, or at the manual for the original it's really really nice.

One thing you didn't link was a PDB. SOmething like this: https://www.banggood.com/Realacc-HU...DB-with-XT60-Plug-p-1085412.html?rmmds=search with the OSD is nice, or the more basic https://www.banggood.com/Matek-Syst...or-RC-Multirotors-p-1049051.html?rmmds=search

I'm not really sure about your motor/prop combo, I've never built a 3" machine.

I'm going to use the acro f3 unless the lux one would work just as well, this is my build https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19GLvjC8xJP5ZeiYP4-5ILE4iNt2_e6HF_V6VJ4SWy2g/edit?usp=sharing I'm using an sbus/ibus receiver and the acro board has just a port I plug the cable into vs the lux board doesn't have anything. I don't know where to put the power in or the rx in or do I just plug one wire into the rx port and two others onto the 5v rail
 
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ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
The Lux board supports PPM, and takes full battery voltage to power up, but the ESC power wires still need to be connected elsewhere as Cranial mentioned. The second PDB I linked is < $6 CDN, what's that like $0.50US? :)

The Lux manual can be found here: http://www.unmannedtech.co.uk/manuals/lumenier-lux-flight-controller
I personally love the layout, but the SPF3 clone will work just as well.

There are PDB/FC combo's as well as combo's of many devices out there, Joshua Bardwell has a couple of round up vids on youtube if you want to research those. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k46wqibHFI8
 
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Legolessed

New member
The Lux board supports PPM, and takes full battery voltage to power up, but the ESC power wires still need to be connected elsewhere as Cranial mentioned. The second PDB I linked is < $6 CDN, what's that like $0.50US? :)

The Lux manual can be found here: http://www.unmannedtech.co.uk/manuals/lumenier-lux-flight-controller
I personally love the layout, but the SPF3 clone will work just as well.

There are PDB/FC combo's as well as combo's of many devices out there, Joshua Bardwell has a couple of round up vids on youtube if you want to research those. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k46wqibHFI8

If I just use the spf3 board and the pdb will that work well together? The spf3 look alike it would be way easier to solder with. But idk if the lux one is easier please tell me
 

ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
If I just use the spf3 board and the pdb will that work well together? The spf3 look alike it would be way easier to solder with. But idk if the lux one is easier please tell me

Either will work well, they have the same processor. I personally found the Lux easier to work with due to the layout and the edge launch pins as opposed to the through hole design on the SPF3 - but whatever works for you :)
 

Legolessed

New member
Either will work well, they have the same processor. I personally found the Lux easier to work with due to the layout and the edge launch pins as opposed to the through hole design on the SPF3 - but whatever works for you :)

Thank you so much for your help I really appreciate it