Cutting foam sheets... with a needle!

[dkj4linux]

dear DKJ4linux,

love you machine very much,
I have bought ramp 1.4,But I have some questions,

1. which verson of the fireware should I use?
2.How to cheat the fireware,the temperature has done?
3.Is there tutorial?
4. how to modify the fireware,Is there anything change?

thanks a lot,waiting for your reply.

have a good day.

Thanks for the kind words... but you've referenced a post over 6 years old. This entire thread follows the needle-cutter's development and you've got a lot of reading to do. Much progress has been made and the most recent information is at the other end of the thread... much closer to the last page than the first. Many versions of the needle-cutter have been built and mounted on a variety of machines, with a variety of controllers and firmware. There's not just one design, controlled by one controller board, and just one firmware; i.e. there are no tutorials, no kits... just ideas and testimonies of a lot of folks who've taken those ideas and, more often than not, built a functional needle-cutter.

I'm not trying to be flippant or vague, I'm just saying there's a lot more to this than a rather ancient RAMPS board and Marlin firmware... which 6 years ago was LESS ancient and made a bit more sense since many of us were putting needle-cutters on the MPCNC then. Since the most current information is toward the end of the thread, I suggest it may be more helpful to see what needle-cutters look like now rather than what they looked like then. The cutter itself is still pretty simple and easily built... but there are many machines and controllers on which it may be mounted and used.

Also, please read my last post, just before yours... I'm 75 years old and pretty much out of the RC and needle-cutter "business". But there are many folks here and on the ERC TimSav needle cutter thread who have built needle-cutters and can help you. Introduce yourself, tell a little bit about your tools and ability, and tell what you want to do with your needle-cutter and how you've envisioned getting there... that'll be a better way to start getting help than asking specific, detailed, questions about a very old board and firmware that many/most no longer use.

I'm sorry I can't be more help but don't give up... what you want to do is quite doable. Many folks have done it. You just need to let the right people know what you are trying to do... they're generally friendly and will be more than happy to help.

Good luck.

-- David

 

[catter1234]

感谢您的客气话……但您引用了 6 岁以上的帖子。整个线程跟随针刀的发展，你有很多阅读要做。已经取得了很大进展，最新信息在线程的另一端......比第一页更接近最后一页。许多版本的切针机已经构建并安装在各种机器上，具有各种控制器和固件。不只有一种设计，由一个控制器板控制，只有一个固件；即没有教程，没有工具包......只有很多人的想法和见证，他们接受了这些想法，并且通常构建了一个功能性的针刀。

我并不是要轻率或含糊其辞，我只是说这比一个相当古老的 RAMPS 板和 Marlin 固件要多得多……6 年前它不那么古老，而且更有意义，因为许多那时我们正在 MPCNC 上安装切针机。由于最新的信息是在线程的末尾，我建议看看现在的切针机是什么样子而不是他们当时的样子可能更有帮助。切割机本身仍然非常简单且易于构建......但有许多机器和控制器可以安装和使用它。

另外，请阅读我的上一篇文章，就在你的文章之前……我已经 75 岁了，几乎不再从事 RC 和针刀“生意”。但是这里和ERC TimSav 切针机线程上有很多人已经制造了切针机并且可以帮助您。自我介绍，简单介绍一下您的工具和能力，并说明您想用您的切针刀做什么，以及您对实现目标的设想……这将是比询问具体问题更好的开始寻求帮助的方式，详细，关于许多/大多数不再使用的非常旧的板和固件的问题。

对不起，我不能提供更多帮助，但不要放弃......你想做的事情是完全可行的。很多人都做到了。您只需要让合适的人知道您正在尝试做什么......他们通常很友好，并且非常乐意提供帮助。

祝你好运。


I
——大卫

I

Thanks for the kind words... but you've referenced a post over 6 years old. This entire thread follows the needle-cutter's development and you've got a lot of reading to do. Much progress has been made and the most recent information is at the other end of the thread... much closer to the last page than the first. Many versions of the needle-cutter have been built and mounted on a variety of machines, with a variety of controllers and firmware. There's not just one design, controlled by one controller board, and just one firmware; i.e. there are no tutorials, no kits... just ideas and testimonies of a lot of folks who've taken those ideas and, more often than not, built a functional needle-cutter.

I'm not trying to be flippant or vague, I'm just saying there's a lot more to this than a rather ancient RAMPS board and Marlin firmware... which 6 years ago was LESS ancient and made a bit more sense since many of us were putting needle-cutters on the MPCNC then. Since the most current information is toward the end of the thread, I suggest it may be more helpful to see what needle-cutters look like now rather than what they looked like then. The cutter itself is still pretty simple and easily built... but there are many machines and controllers on which it may be mounted and used.

Also, please read my last post, just before yours... I'm 75 years old and pretty much out of the RC and needle-cutter "business". But there are many folks here and on the ERC TimSav needle cutter thread who have built needle-cutters and can help you. Introduce yourself, tell a little bit about your tools and ability, and tell what you want to do with your needle-cutter and how you've envisioned getting there... that'll be a better way to start getting help than asking specific, detailed, questions about a very old board and firmware that many/most no longer use.

I'm sorry I can't be more help but don't give up... what you want to do is quite doable. Many folks have done it. You just need to let the right people know what you are trying to do... they're generally friendly and will be more than happy to help.

Good luck.

-- David

I want a simple,cheap and easy build machine,I have 3D printer,But I'm not Familiar the progress, I read more than 1000 discuss,but sitll don't know How to start. ERC's machine need more print parts,If I lose,It will give me the feel of falure. forgive me,my English is not good,I don't know If ERC's machine,the fireware,the parts,and other thing,all the things is suply? or the machine is more complex than yours. I have bought ramp 1.4,If I build ERC machine,should I buy another controller?

thanks,waiting for your reply

 

[dkj4linux]

I



I want a simple,cheap and easy build machine,I have 3D printer,But I'm not Familiar the progress, I read more than 1000 discuss,but sitll don't know How to start. ERC's machine need more print parts,If I lose,It will give me the feel of falure. forgive me,my English is not good,I don't know If ERC's machine,the fireware,the parts,and other thing,all the things is suply? or the machine is more complex than yours. I have bought ramp 1.4,If I build ERC machine,should I buy another controller?

thanks,waiting for your reply

Edward Chew's ERC Timsav foam cutter machine is about the simplest,cheapest, and most easily built foam cutter machine you will find. He once offered it as a kit but, at about the same time as the pandemic hit, I think he had to stop producing them. But the parts list, electronics, and all mechanical parts are listed in the files you can download from the Thingiverse link I supplied above. He provides links to all the parts, assembly instructions/videos, and there is a very active Facebook (FB) group (I don't do FB, so can't help there)... and then there is the thread here on FliteTest forum that I referenced in my previous post. Edward did an amazing job putting all the information together to get you going -- watch all his videos! -- and then the Flitetest thread and FB group are there to provide additional support.

I really can't help beyond that. Yes, the RAMPS controller and Marlin firmware you have probably won't be useful... but the GRBL controller on Edward's machine is equally inexpensive and compatible with all the information/software/firmware he recommended for his machine. At the time he worked all this up, you could easily build his entire machine for less the $200. I doubt you can do better than that now.

Good luck!

-- David

 

[ScottInIowa]

To drag this thread back up - I remixed the 'MPCNC' needle cutter head with a variant of the TimSav cutting head. Basically this allows you to use a 2212 motor and the TimSav flywheel with the MPCNC mount. If anyone is interested in such a thing I could throw it up on thingiverse.

 

[Michael9865]

To drag this thread back up - I remixed the 'MPCNC' needle cutter head with a variant of the TimSav cutting head. Basically this allows you to use a 2212 motor and the TimSav flywheel with the MPCNC mount. If anyone is interested in such a thing I could throw it up on thingiverse.

In my opinion Thingiverse is a good option for people to find it that aren’t following nor posting yet.

 

[dkj4linux]

To drag this thread back up - I remixed the 'MPCNC' needle cutter head with a variant of the TimSav cutting head. Basically this allows you to use a 2212 motor and the TimSav flywheel with the MPCNC mount. If anyone is interested in such a thing I could throw it up on thingiverse.

Though I'm pretty much out of RC and the needle cutter game, I did a remix of Edward's ERC needle cutter for MPCNC "Burly" back in late 2019... essentially a one-piece printed assembly of ERC's flat parts on a backplate to fit the Burly tool mount. Otherwise it uses all the parts from the ERC needle cutter BOM. It can also be found out on Printables.com... here.

I'd encourage you to put yours out there as well... the more, the merrier. -- David

 

[john ferguson]

I'm almost finished with the needle-driver which will clamp on to the spindle of my Chinese 6040 router. Rotor is 3d printed, everthing else is 6061. I'm getting ready to make the foam vaccuum table and think I've got the entire thing figured out except the holes in the foam. I'd like to drill them with the router, but maybe they can be cut with the needle.

What did you do?

 

[dehager]

I cut mine out with the needle cutter. There is a template buried in this thread somewhere. My cutter is mounted vertically because I have limited floor space. The vacuum table is the best.

 

[john ferguson]

Thanks much. that's a very nice looking machine you've built. It took me some time to realize that the servo-tester needed to be connected art the output end.

 

[john ferguson]

I got it close to done, enough to mount it up on the router, tape a couple of boards to the table and see how it works. I have another question. the stroke on mine is about 1/2 inch. I would think that the wire should only stick out of the throat a bit more than the thckness of the board being cut which would mean on the upstroke the tip would be up in the welding tip about 1/4 inch.

How is your's set up?

best,
John

 

[john ferguson]

Here is what I've done:
The frame is 6061, the bearings are same 6mm used in earlier designs, guide is recommended welding tip. The rotor is a 3D PETG print - I really wonder how long it will last in service.

There are two 6mm bearings in the rotor and they are held in place by an M3 SS Socket-Head Cap screw and a brass stand-off nut. The stand-off nut is drilled to the size of the wire. (drilling such a small hole in brass is not easy even with a mini drill press - better lower rpms than higher) I put the wire in the hole and then tighten the stand-off nut so that the wire is forced against the screw. Hole in nut has to be carefully located for this to work, can make shaft either too loose or too tight.

I'll try it out this afternoon.

I suppose the other posters here are way past this stage, but if anyone sees anything wrong with this, I'd love to hear it.
My guess is that I'll have to come up with another way to secure the wire since this method requires that I remove the rotor to replace it. I also haven't added any counter-weights to better balance the rotor - again something that will be more easily done with an aluminum rotor.

 

[john ferguson]

It works and works just fine. wire is .025 running 8k rpm with 1/2 inch stroke but set to penetrate 6mm which wasn't quite enough - must be lost motion in there somewhere. The quality of the cut is unbelievable, you can glue it up w ithout any further fussing.
MANY, MANY THANKS to the guys who thought of this and brought it to a point where anyone could build one. I don't even know if I'm going to complete the larger vacuum table. I have tow smaller ones, but taping the foam down seemed to work fine.

yippee.

 

[Michael9865]

It works and works just fine. wire is .025 running 8k rpm with 1/2 inch stroke but set to penetrate 6mm which wasn't quite enough - must be lost motion in there somewhere. The quality of the cut is unbelievable, you can glue it up w ithout any further fussing.
MANY, MANY THANKS to the guys who thought of this and brought it to a point where anyone could build one. I don't even know if I'm going to complete the larger vacuum table. I have tow smaller ones, but taping the foam down seemed to work fine.

yippee.

Wow! That aluminum cutter is definitely a step above my 3D printed one. Impressive.

 

[john ferguson]

I must say I was surprised that it worked from the start. while I was getting started with it, I had the needle driver away from the board so i could get the rpm set. It ran for about 10 seconds and the wire broke halfway between the rotor and the bearings. I replaced the wire and the new one was fine and I cut two boards with it. Other wire must have been brittle where it broke.

 

[john ferguson]

I started out with an hdpe vacuum-table big enough to hold 3-ply for ribs and formers (bulkheads). it started out with a small shop vac for suction, but I decided to make a good one. The box is made out of mdf panels cut on the cnc router. The "fan" is mounted on a 3d printed support which also provides a face to accept the air-filter below. the gauge measures suction within the box.

I can post the autocad drawings for the box panels and an stl for the blower support.

 

[sudarshanpujari]

Could anyone remind me why such a design is infeasible for a needle cutter?

 

[ScottInIowa]

Could anyone remind me why such a design is infeasible for a needle cutter?

Interesting concept! I'm not sure what current problem it would solve, but I think it could be adapted to work

 

[Michael9865]

Could anyone remind me why such a design is infeasible for a needle cutter?

Some quick thoughts are mentioned below.
This design has a lot of metal on metal wear points and friction points. The metal on metal points cause heat, friction, and energy loss. The spinning shaft does not have ball bearings at the points where it goes through the housing. The washers and pins are another friction point, The way it was made how could you get a good balance on the shaft to eliminate it from shaking and wearing. The piece that holds the blade and slides up and down has multiple friction points as it slides metal on metal.
The weight of the design would create issues with moving it with stepper motors and not encounter momentum slop.
A jig saw blade could create binding issues or ripping the foam as you try to turn corners.

 

[Tench745]

Some quick thoughts are mentioned below.
This design has a lot of metal on metal wear points and friction points. The metal on metal points cause heat, friction, and energy loss. The spinning shaft does not have ball bearings at the points where it goes through the housing. The washers and pins are another friction point, The way it was made how could you get a good balance on the shaft to eliminate it from shaking and wearing. The piece that holds the blade and slides up and down has multiple friction points as it slides metal on metal.
The weight of the design would create issues with moving it with stepper motors and not encounter momentum slop.
A jig saw blade could create binding issues or ripping the foam as you try to turn corners.

I believe the poster's intent was using a variation of this reciprocation mecanisim to replace the more common flywheel mechanism, which can impose unwanted bending loads on the needle. Not using a saw blade or this heavy-duty assembly, specifically.

 

[Michael9865]

I believe the poster's intent was using a variation of this reciprocation mecanisim to replace the more common flywheel mechanism, which can impose unwanted bending loads on the needle. Not using a saw blade or this heavy-duty assembly, specifically.

Ahh