Sig Astro-Hog, Rescue and Re-build

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
At FTFF 16 there was a guy selling all kinds of planes, from kits to just-about-flyable. A few of his offerings were of interest to me, including some good-size warbirds like the Mustang and Corsair (both balsa kits, started but never completed). One plane still hanging in his trailer caught my attention, the Sig Astro Hog. It's a low-wing trainer that was being produced as early as 1957, although this plane is nowhere near that old. This plane is still in production and can be considered an RC classic. I couldn't pass up on the price and purchased it. The big problem was trying to get it home, since my dad and I had a number of planes already packed into the truck, along with clothes, tools, and other supplies. It took some doing, but even with the Astro Hog loaded we ended up with more open space going home than we did going to Ohio! :confused:

Some Astro Hog stats from the Sig website:

  • Wingspan 71 in 1803 mm
  • Wing Area 824 sq in 53.2 dm²
  • Length 51 in 1295 mm
  • Flying Weight 7 - 7.5 lb 3175 - 3402 g
  • Radio Required 4-Channel with 4 Servos (not included)
  • Engine Required: 2-Stroke .40 - .60 cu. in. (6.5 - 10.0 cc)
  • or: 4-Stroke .60 - .80 cu. in. (10.0 - 13.1 cc)

This is another Sig kit that I had wanted to build for a while. Finding one coated with dust and needing a new home is the next best thing, as I love rescuing good planes like this! After arriving home I attached the wing and took some "before" pictures. This one was set up in the trike configuration, although builders could also go with the classic tail-dragger setup. She possibly could be flown with the covering that was on it, but it's a little brittle and I wouldn't want to chance it. During the re-build, the plan is to covert it over to electric and give it a solid once-over to make sure it's safe to fly. Sig still sells the kit and parts in case I find any major problems.

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First up is the wing. It's solid and doesn't feel like there are any hidden problems, but as said earlier, the covering is brittle so at the very least it needs to be re-covered. The servo works fine, but that will probably be updated as well. I'm not sure what "ALWAYS" on the port wing means...?

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The Hog uses a single servo to control the ailerons. If I were building this from scratch or a kit I'd probably set it up with a servo for each aileron.

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There were only a few small holes in the covering. The person who did the covering job had a few layers on top of each other. Overall, it was serviceable and appears to have worked well for him for a lot of flights.

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I found a few repairs to the wing, including the starboard wingtip.

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About 90 minutes later I had all of the plastic film removed. The color leached into the balsa over the years making it look like the covering is still on it. After a close inspection, there are only a couple dings in the balsa which need attention, and I'll need to do a little repair work on the ailerons to fix the balsa I damaged removing them. New hinges will be used, since the previous owner used CA hinges and I prefer pinned hinges. Other than the color-stained wood, I'm very happy with what I see so far!

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Yes, Patrick. I'm starting another plane. But before starting this one, I fixed to others which were sidelined needing some repairs. :cool:
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
I may re-do it in a similar design, I haven't decided yet.

Oh, and it looks like my big error in taking covering off on the wing was that I didn't use heat, and just peeled it off cold. The color is coming off if I heat it up and scrape it with a paint stick, but it's a pain in the butt to do. The fuselage came out very clean, with only a few spots of silver, thanks to heating it up before peeling the covering.

Oh well, live and learn! :)
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Here's how nice and clean the covering came off the fuselage, I'm kicking myself for not realizing heat would help with the wing...!

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A little rhinoplasty on the nose was needed for the electric conversion. I'll end up re-building the nose completely since the original one was open on top for the nitro engine. It also blocked access to the nosewheel screws. The new one will be removable for motor and nosewheel access.

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As I was taking the tail apart, the elevator halves fell apart with just minimal pressure! :eek: It could have easily done this while flying, so I'm glad I'm taking it all apart for inspection before re-covering.

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The pushrods were made from wire and square hardwood with the ends sanded round. Where they're joined together they are wrapped with a thin string. One of them is also covered with a lot of epoxy resin for some reason...? The ends are cheap plastic/nylon. As much as I'd like to keep the plane as original as possible, much of this is going to be updated. The elevators and rudder will also be re-made from sheet balsa. The old pieces feel a little soft, probably from glow fuel exhaust soaking them for years. Making the new pieces should be pretty quick & easy.

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Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
The wing is now scraped about as clean as it's going to get, and it's been rough-sanded. The wing and fuse need some filler in a few spots as well as final sanding. Tail surfaces are removed and will be used as patterns for new pieces. It's coming along quickly, and may turn out to be a relatively quick project.

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Before calling it a night I decided to cut a hatch for battery access. The plan is to use the same 5 cell 5000mAh packs that I use in my big Pietenpol. A little reinforcement will be needed in here, along with a proper battery tray. The ESC will be below the battery, and I should have easy access for installing the pack. A big obvious hatch on top of the fuselage isn't my first choice, but with a plane this size the options are limited. Side-loading the battery was an option but this will simply be easier to work with at the field. Once it's in the air it won't matter much anyway! :)

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If you have fuel soaked spots, there's a dry cleaning spray called K2R, and it seems to get the oil out of the wood fairly well. Thoro dry cleaning fluid works too, but I haven't seen that in a store in ages!
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
The original tail control surfaces are old, beat up, fuel soaked, and easier to replace than fix. They're made from 1/4" sheet, but I only had 1/8" as my thickest size, so I laminated two pieces together. Problem solved, plus I think it'll be a little stiffer than the original. I also took a 1/4" X 1/4" stick of hard balsa and glued it to the edges of the new control surfaces. Last, I wanted to reinforce the spots where the control horns attach so I inset a piece of hardwood. The original surfaces were compressed and the holes were starting to enlarge from use. This should help avoid the problem from happening again.

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Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Put a twin tail on it and call it an open cockpit ercoupe :p

I'm not going to do it, but just looking at the base plane again after you said that makes me realize that this could be a good "generic" platform to make a lot of different designs. Simply changing the canopy, cowl, and tail feathers could turn it into a BF-109, Jug, Ercoupe, or dozens of different designs. Obviously it wouldn't be a scale match, but close enough to fool the masses!

Funny thing about the Ercoupe, my dad and I were talking about getting a plane (well, HE was talking about it) and I mentioned a Erocupe that was for sale at a pretty reasonable price. His comment immediately was that any pilot can fly a Erocupe, but a Erocupe pilot can only fly a Erocupe. It's got some fancy "help" built in to how it flies making it very unique compared to other planes. His statement may not be 100% accurate, but I know what he means.
 

Tench745

Master member
Yeah, the Ercoupe had no rudder pedals. It mechanically added rudder inputs as you applied aileron. Not all of them had this feature, but if you got your rating in one that did you would have to later get a rudder rating to fly anything else.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
It's a short day today, I'm too tired to do any real work... First up is fixing the ailerons. As pictured earlier they use a torque-tube setup where a wire sticks into the aileron to force it up and down. This area was worn and a bit sloppy, meaning I wouldn't get crisp aileron throws, so it needed a quick fix. First, I drilled out the hole the aileron wire sits in to 1/8" and filled that hole with a hardwood dowel. The rest of the damaged balsa along the torque-tube was damaged so a piece of balsa was cut and glued into place. When the glue dried it was all sanded smooth, just like new(ish). I'll re-drill the hole and cut a new channel for the torque-tube, and then the ailerons will be ready for hinges, final sanding, and covering.

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The battery hatch opening is also getting faced with some 1/16" light ply. The hatch will also have the light ply ends which will give me a strong hatch that isn't easily dinged up during battery install/removal.

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Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Other projects keep getting in the way of real progress on the Astro-Hog... fixing the nose on the 'Cuda, tweaking the Pietenpol, etc. Now I need to get floats on my Telemaster by Sunday since my dad is coming to town and bringing at least one float plane with him, and none of my float flyers are ready for water.

However, a little work was completed on the hatch, and it now just needs the magnets and latch to secure it before work on other areas can start again. I noticed that everything slows down drastically when I start scratch modifying existing structure, which is probably good since it keeps me from screwing something up too badly! :)

I also ordered the motor for this build, which should give me the equivalent power of a .46 nitro. The ESC is a 70A, and prop will either be 12" or 13" x 5.

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Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Not to get too far ahead of myself with projects, but I think my next build after the Astro-Hog is done and my Clipped Wing Cub is flying again has been decided. Flying with my dad yesterday we were talking about planes, kits, plans, etc., and I remembered some of the plans made by Wendall Hostetler, who does some fairly large scale designs. He's got a 27% scale Cessna L-19 Bird Dog, and I pulled the trigger on buying the plans. Wingspan is just over 116" (9-1/2'), length is 81", weight is about 21 pounds, and it'll run on a 50cc-ish gasser. This will give me incentive to get the other projects done, as this would be my biggest build to date and I can't wait to get started! :)
 
The Bird Dog is a neat plane. Lots of neat history with the L-19. I am working on the Dumas (Tritle) kit right now.

EDIT: I have been considering the 1/4 scale Jerry Bates Arctic Tern, which is the evolution of the L-6 (Interstate Cadet). I can take the drive from my 27% Extra 260 for power.
 
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Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
The plans arrived today, and WOW that's a big bird! Two large pages, rolled in a big tube. I'll start a thread for it soon and have lots of studying to do before work starts. Also got a few parts for the Clipped Cub so I can try and get it running properly. Oh, the joy of new stuff! :)
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
The motor and battery mounts are the biggest projects on this plane, as I change it from nitro to electric. Today I fabricated the battery tray which will give me room to adjust placement for CoG. The motor mount was made from leftover wood I was given for my Pietenpol, it was from an original full size Piet, and stacked two deep was a perfect size to get the motor in the right spot. With everything in the right spots I can now add some internal bracing and add the holes for the wiring before moving on to the next project. The cowl sides will wait until late in the rebuild.

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Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
The conversion from nitro to electric is done, so now comes the "assembly" phase where I get all the parts installed and functioning again so it can be covered. The first task was replacing the old nylon bolts with new pieces. The old ones were worn out and fit loose in the fuselage. My local ACE Hardware carries nylon hardware, so I picked up some 1/4-20 in white. Testing on the fuselage found they were really tight in the old wood, so I broke out the tap & die set and reamed out the holes. The results were as good as hoped for, and the bolts go in all the way with less resistance, nice and smooth.

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With landing gear attached for testing the electronics I couldn't resist taking it for a spin around the driveway just as the storms approached. The steering control needs to be tweaked, but it works! :)

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I think I decided how I'm going to handle the cowl now. The original setup was open on top for the nitro engine, which then blocked access to the steering controls. I'm going to see about reversing that so the top of the cowl is enclosed and the bottom open. A little testing will be done as the reassembly continues.

Seeing the plane move under it's own power is a very satisfying experience!
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
As mentioned previously, I'm going to change the nose of the Hog slightly. Originally the top of the cowl was open to allow room for the nitro engine, but the closed bottom made it hard to adjust the steering, so I'm switching it up and leaving the bottom open and closing off the top.

First step was cutting and fitting some blocks of balsa that were over-sized.

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After the glue dried the blocks were rough-sanded to shape before switching to a finer grit. Balsa filler was spread on to fill any low spots. Even before sanding the filler it looked tons better . I also managed to re-use the original "cheeks" of the cowl.

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The goal for today was to get the tail surfaces hinged, so mission accomplished. I still need to connect the two elevators together and do a few minor tweaks to the hinges, but so far so good. Ailerons are up first, however!

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rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
The project is looking great, and I always enjoy the detailed pictures and comments you post.

Just wanted to give you a thumbs up and thanks for that. :)
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Much appreciated! Most of the time it feels like I'm doing the updates just to amuse myself, but hopefully it's also useful to others occasionally. :)