- Type
- Build Plan (PDF, AI, etc.)
This is a plane I designed a little while ago, it was originally designed as a prop n slot, but I later built and edf version using a 4s 64mm. Both flew amazing have decent top speed (the edf was considerably faster of course) and good slow speed performance. However, since the edf unit was a friend's and not mine, I scaled the plans down a little to aprox. 530mm and created the fastest plane i have ever flown. On both of the prop n slot versions that I built I used an ifilght xing e-pro 2207 2750kv motor on 4s with a flite test 40amp esc and a 4s 850mah lipo along with a 5in 6 bladed prop. the edf version used a 64mm edf, 50amp esc, and 4s 1500mah lipo.
these planes (as of now) do not have any build instructions or pictures, i will try to get some good pics of the build process the next time i build one (hopefully soon!).
Note, this is not a beginner build, mainly because of the lack of instruction but also because it doesnt use the standard flite test fold method.
Almost every score cut line (red) needs to be a 30 degree double bevel or can also be very steep single bevel (ive done both, both work just fine). the way this plane builds is: you bevel, then force the foam to bend past 90 degrees (as you would for a standard ft wing) and then hold it for about a min or so, then go back and glue it making sure to hold it until the glue dries or it will not hold in the correct spot. use you own judgment as to what lines need beveled.
Do not glue in the nacelles until all your other electronics are in so that you can route all of the wires through the nacelles and into the fuse.
the piece that goes next to the wing and on top of the plane that makes it look nice can be built either as posterboard or foamboard. ive done both, both work fine. posterboard is a little harder to get it to stay in the right place, but require no beveling of foam, so just choose which ever youre comfortable with.
to mount the motor, i included the stl file of the motor mount i designed, i have built one with a standard power pod, but it isnt ideal. so if you have a 3d printer, print it.
the hole for the prop also will need to be cut depending on the prop you are using, the large one can take a 6in, but for the small one 5in MAX.
the nose can mount on a variety of ways, ive done magnets and skewers, and a 3d printed nose clip part that is invisible from the outside. this is the recommended way to do it but all ways work. (i included the stl files to that too)
the control surfaces are made for elevons, it can be built with full moving (i included a pic of how i did mine) or normal flite test elevators. if doing the later method, be sure to get a lot of elevator surface and throw, it needs it. (oh, and use 9g servos, i tried 5g and the gears stripped on me)
A good bit of foambaord building knowledge is REQUIRED for this build. however, if you go slow and take your time, youll be fine.
both of the MiGs built in white foambaord are full size, the one out of black is the small one
and unfortunately, i have no MiGs currently built and i had forgotten to mark cg, so, before you fly do a couple of glide tests to get it in the ballpark of correct cg.
Have fun building and flying and let me know if yall have any suggestions on how it can be made better!
these planes (as of now) do not have any build instructions or pictures, i will try to get some good pics of the build process the next time i build one (hopefully soon!).
Note, this is not a beginner build, mainly because of the lack of instruction but also because it doesnt use the standard flite test fold method.
Almost every score cut line (red) needs to be a 30 degree double bevel or can also be very steep single bevel (ive done both, both work just fine). the way this plane builds is: you bevel, then force the foam to bend past 90 degrees (as you would for a standard ft wing) and then hold it for about a min or so, then go back and glue it making sure to hold it until the glue dries or it will not hold in the correct spot. use you own judgment as to what lines need beveled.
Do not glue in the nacelles until all your other electronics are in so that you can route all of the wires through the nacelles and into the fuse.
the piece that goes next to the wing and on top of the plane that makes it look nice can be built either as posterboard or foamboard. ive done both, both work fine. posterboard is a little harder to get it to stay in the right place, but require no beveling of foam, so just choose which ever youre comfortable with.
to mount the motor, i included the stl file of the motor mount i designed, i have built one with a standard power pod, but it isnt ideal. so if you have a 3d printer, print it.
the hole for the prop also will need to be cut depending on the prop you are using, the large one can take a 6in, but for the small one 5in MAX.
the nose can mount on a variety of ways, ive done magnets and skewers, and a 3d printed nose clip part that is invisible from the outside. this is the recommended way to do it but all ways work. (i included the stl files to that too)
the control surfaces are made for elevons, it can be built with full moving (i included a pic of how i did mine) or normal flite test elevators. if doing the later method, be sure to get a lot of elevator surface and throw, it needs it. (oh, and use 9g servos, i tried 5g and the gears stripped on me)
A good bit of foambaord building knowledge is REQUIRED for this build. however, if you go slow and take your time, youll be fine.
both of the MiGs built in white foambaord are full size, the one out of black is the small one
and unfortunately, i have no MiGs currently built and i had forgotten to mark cg, so, before you fly do a couple of glide tests to get it in the ballpark of correct cg.
Have fun building and flying and let me know if yall have any suggestions on how it can be made better!
