Coverlite and other Dopey things on DTFB

[PoorManRC]

@d8veh - THAT'S something I've always wanted to do!!! Should have when I still had the Body.....

 

[Brett_N]

What is the purpose you are trying to accomplish with covering?

Structural or for looks?

My favorite, which is CHEAP and EASY is colored packing tape. It's bulletproof. Get a cheap spray bottle from DT, and some cheap isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) - fill the sprayer with it, and use it on the paper side of the DTFB where you want to remove the paper. Paper comes right off everytime. Let it dry, and cover with packing tape. Almost indestructible and super light weight. BUT!!! glue doesn't stick to the tape - hot glue, Gorilla Glue, not even epoxy, so make sure you cut the tape off any mating surfaces.

Another trick I picked up is automotive filling spray primer. Peel the paper off, and spray 6 or 7 light...very light coats of primer, and sand smooth. You can then spray paint over without any issues.

White glue on the edges helps keep the paper intact (or modge podge)

 

[PoorManRC]

@Brett_N Actually, both. I've seen a series of Videos from Experimental Airlines about using 2 mil colored Packing Tape. Good stuff!

 

[jaredstrees]

Packing tape is what I use on the majority of my foam builds. Lots of colors, relatively easy. Just try and plan out the scheme. It is much easier to put on before you start making folds. Just make sure you keep glue joint clear of tape as it won't adhere as well.

I just got a can of Ironlak Sugar paint. Supposedly has very low VOC's which are the main culprits that damage the foam. So far so good, to light coats and no bubbling or anything. Will let ya'll know how it turns out.

 

[PoorManRC]

@jaredstrees - I have never heard of Ironlak Sugar Paint.... US Product??
Definitely let us know how that works out!
I was thinking, for my painted Models, either Minwax or an Acrylic Primer, and then shooting Acrylic Paint, thinned with Alcohol.

The Colored Packing Tape is still high on the list. Cost being the biggest issue....

 

[jaredstrees]

Packing tape isn't too bad, I know you're on a strict budget though. Tape brothers has lots of colors and most rolls will do multiple planes.

ironlak paints: https://ironlak.com/sugar-sugar

not cheap spray paint but seems to go on well.

 

[PoorManRC]

I'm no fan of "Cheap Paint". I'll always WAIT to get quality stuff, except maybe Primers....
That looks very interesting! Foam Safe Paint isn't always easy to find. Sure, most Acrylics work, especially through an Airbrush.... but there's still paper distortion to worry about.

https://ironlak.com/ironlak-ironlak
This one's a couple of bucks less, what's your take? Have you used it?

 

[jaredstrees]

Haven't used it, although everyone on here that's used ironlak seems to love it. I choose the sugar as it has less VOC's in it, therefore it should be safer on foam.

 

[kilroy07]

has anyone tried using future floor polish?
I believe it's just an acrylic gloss... will it work like minwax or because it's waterbased will it wrinkle the paper horribly?

 

[PoorManRC]

has anyone tried using future floor polish?
I believe it's just an acrylic gloss... will it work like minwax or because it's waterbased will it wrinkle the paper horribly?

Hmmm..... I used to use Future all the time, as a Clearcoat on my Model Trains. Great results. I'm not sure how that watery of a coat would work on the Paper.
Be great for bare Foam though.

It DOES make a surprising top coat. Some guys have even used it to thin acrylic paint!

@jaredstrees - I'm about 2 bucks closer to affording that. When I'm able (Lord Knows!!), I'll be the guinea pig for that.

 

[Hai-Lee]

I wasted a lot of money on various aerosol paints until I noticed something! I used to use FB offcuts as barriers to overspray and to protect already painted parts of the job. I noticed that even without sealing I was able to get paint onto the offcuts without the blistering. I surmised that this was because of the much less solvent being able to soak through the paper and attack the foam.

Then the penny dropped, (my father was a painter), and what the offcuts were getting was what my father called a "Dry Coat". With a little practice I was soon able to "Dry coat" the models and so save a great deal of materials and time. Using the cheapest Rattle Cans of paint and keeping the coat very light and the distance between the spray can and the job such that the paint never appeared to be wet I could get a rather nice and even finish.

Sadly even gloss paints looked Matt but when the paint was really dry, and often after a few light coats, a wet coat of gloss clear made them Pop! Since then I have been able to afford a little more quality ingredients and materials and can no longer afford the time the Dry method took.

I recommend that you expend a little time and some scrap FB to see what finish you can get and even the money you can save using your own methodology!

Have fun!

 

[skymaster]

hello PoorManRC and eveyone, so you want to build your planes and detail them. well if that is your choice go for it. but the build will not last long since mother nature will take care of that. sure you will be a good pilot but fb will get mushy after a wile from bad landings too. in a way its a good thing cause this way you can build a different one, with the same electronics. and if you get the bug on building you are gonna get a garage full of scratch build hanging on your garage. i would waterproof my plane if it was a water plane if not y bother just shoot a couple of spray paints passes and walla dont over do it though light coats will do. If you wanna water proof it you can use that stuff that you put on your shoes to protect them from the rain. this is one more option

 

[skymaster]

hello PoorManRC and eveyone, so you want to build your planes and detail them. well if that is your choice go for it. but the build will not last long since mother nature will take care of that. sure you will be a good pilot but fb will get mushy after a wile from bad landings too. in a way its a good thing cause this way you can build a different one, with the same electronics. and if you get the bug on building you are gonna get a garage full of scratch build hanging on your garage. i would waterproof my plane if it was a water plane if not y bother just shoot a couple of spray paints passes and walla dont over do it though light coats will do. If you wanna water proof it you can use that stuff that you put on your shoes to protect them from the rain. this is one more option

 

[PoorManRC]

I wasted a lot of money on various aerosol paints until I noticed something! I used to use FB offcuts as barriers to overspray and to protect already painted parts of the job. I noticed that even without sealing I was able to get paint onto the offcuts without the blistering. I surmised that this was because of the much less solvent being able to soak through the paper and attack the foam.

Then the penny dropped, (my father was a painter), and what the offcuts were getting was what my father called a "Dry Coat". With a little practice I was soon able to "Dry coat" the models and so save a great deal of materials and time. Using the cheapest Rattle Cans of paint and keeping the coat very light and the distance between the spray can and the job such that the paint never appeared to be wet I could get a rather nice and even finish.

Sadly even gloss paints looked Matte but when the paint was really dry, and often after a few light coats, a wet coat of gloss clear made them Pop! Since then I have been able to afford a little more quality ingredients and materials and can no longer afford the time the Dry method took.

I recommend that you expend a little time and some scrap FB to see what finish you can get and even the money you can save using your own methodology!

Have fun!

Once again, Sage Advice!! I fully plan on using scraps for paint testing....
What your Father was describing, we call "dusting" in the US. It's the same thing! Basically, if you're using a Rattle Can, holding it back some distance essentially dissipates the solvents before it hits the subject.

I plan on Airbrushing.... which has its own challenges, painting 2 or 3 different types of surfaces being the biggest. There's shade variations, and more pertinent - how the differing types of surfaces will react!

Painting Models, I'm GOOD at. Been doing it since I was a kid. You should see the Color Changing Paint on one of my 1:10 Scale Crawlers....

@skymaster - so THAT'S what Camp Dry is!!! I've heard Bixler use that term many times, with hardly an explanation. I guess I was supposed to know??
Anyway, I've got to find that for my Work Mat, and Minwax for my Bodies...