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Motors won’t spin everything else works and i hear the motors twitch when i arm.

#1
Motors aren’t spinning even though it says they are on beta flight. Makes no sense all endpoints are set 1000-2000. Using a mk2 f405 mamba flight stack. Didn’t use the inter fence plastic thing it came with could that be the reason the motors aren’t spinning?
 

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PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
#3
Sounds like a connection issue from the FC to the ESC. or one of the safety flags is set for not level. Did you calibrate the accelerometers so the FC knows what level is?

Also did you plug the flight battery in? the ESC wont run motors off just usb power. REMOVE PROPS before doing this if you did not try it under power.
 
#4
Sounds like a connection issue from the FC to the ESC. or one of the safety flags is set for not level. Did you calibrate the accelerometers so the FC knows what level is?

Also did you plug the flight battery in? the ESC wont run motors off just usb power. REMOVE PROPS before doing this if you did not try it under power.
I did plug battery in and it’s a 4in1 esc?
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
#5
Did you do as esc calibration where you enable the motors, slide the main motor slider up all the way THEN power the quad with a flight pack and when the escs start making sounds pull that slider back to zero? Again Props off so it does not accidentally try to eat your face.
 
#6
Did you do as esc calibration where you enable the motors, slide the main motor slider up all the way THEN power the quad with a flight pack and when the escs start making sounds pull that slider back to zero? Again Props off so it does not accidentally try to eat your face.
Nope not yet thanks!!! Trying now
 
#7
Did you do as esc calibration where you enable the motors, slide the main motor slider up all the way THEN power the quad with a flight pack and when the escs start making sounds pull that slider back to zero? Again Props off so it does not accidentally try to eat your face.
Nope didn’t work
 
#9
Dshot 600 for the mamba f405mk2 w samguk 2700kv dys race motors. 4s w srxlv2 reciever on tx6. Eachine tx5258 vtx w caddyx camera. Forgot name but it was like $36
 
#11
Yes think i the esc is the problem. Gonna order a new one and the battery plug soldering connections weren’t good but the vtx and osd work on my goggles i can see through camera and motors beep. Just won’t spin
 

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ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
#12
I'd be surprised if all 4 ESC's on the board were toast, especially if you're getting the beeps. Can you describe (or video) the beep sequence?
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
#13
Three things I suggest before you start throwing money at this.

Do you have and have you ever used a multimeter to check continuity? If you do not I would say start by getting one of them as it will pay you back 10 fold when working on multirotor craft. Just a cheapie 10 or so dollar one from walmart or amazon will be good enough

Two practice soldering on junk electronics. Those solder joints look pretty heavy handed and could potentially be where things are going south for you. This is where a decent temp controlled soldering station really pays off. Specially if you have a pointy tip for the smaller stuff we mostly work on as well as a chisel tip for things like power leads or XT60 connectors. Look for one in mid level price ranges thats states it is a fast recovery iron. the older irons leach heat fast and take for ever to catch up with a larger joint thus super heating the board and surrounding sensitive components.

Third is what we call a smoke stopper. Which is nothing more then a car tail light bulb you put in line between the battery and the electronics whenever first powering up a new build so you dont fry components.

These may help more then explaining it all in text.



 
#14
Three things I suggest before you start throwing money at this.

Do you have and have you ever used a multimeter to check continuity? If you do not I would say start by getting one of them as it will pay you back 10 fold when working on multirotor craft. Just a cheapie 10 or so dollar one from walmart or amazon will be good enough

Two practice soldering on junk electronics. Those solder joints look pretty heavy handed and could potentially be where things are going south for you. This is where a decent temp controlled soldering station really pays off. Specially if you have a pointy tip for the smaller stuff we mostly work on as well as a chisel tip for things like power leads or XT60 connectors. Look for one in mid level price ranges thats states it is a fast recovery iron. the older irons leach heat fast and take for ever to catch up with a larger joint thus super heating the board and surrounding sensitive components.

Third is what we call a smoke stopper. Which is nothing more then a car tail light bulb you put in line between the battery and the electronics whenever first powering up a new build so you dont fry components.

These may help more then explaining it all in text.



Will Do when i get home. Thanks for yalls help will post results when it’s done
 
#15
Will Do when i get home. Thanks for yalls help will post results when it’s done

that is the link to the beep sequence. its one beep but beeped twice cause the negative came undone so I put it back on. hard to connect the negative and record. need to resolder soon obviously unless I am taking it off cause esc is toast.
 

ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
#16
The 3 beeps you hear are the power up tones, there should be 2 more after the ESC initializes. Something is preventing that from happening, probably in the BF config. Can you post some screenshots of the config tab?
 
#17
The 3 beeps you hear are the power up tones, there should be 2 more after the ESC initializes. Something is preventing that from happening, probably in the BF config. Can you post some screenshots of the config tab?
There’s only 1 beep when it turns on. Turned it on twice in that video if u watched. Sure here’s the whole config tab.
 

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#18
Burnt the 4-1 forsure it just smoked when i tried to turn it on again. I already ordered a new one hours ago with a new solder iron and a few extra fine tips and 63/37 solder. Will not mess up this time. Do u think it fried the motors or?
 

Jackson T

Well-known member
#19
If the screws touch the windings it causes a similar gittering of the motor, and eventually ESC failure. It has happened to me before.
 

FDS

Well-known member
#20
I would look for a short circuit or mechanical stall like the above suggestion before you solder in a new ESC. Check the motor bells can spin freely and the screws are well away from any of the windings.
Also build yourself a smoke stopper and make sure you use it every time you change anything on your quad when you test power it.