Radial motor for your Radial motor

Aslansmonkey

Well-known member
I made a 3D printable radial motor to mount to your Flite Test Radial Motor mount, in case anyone is looking for anything like this.

The Thingiverse link is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4857769

Attached are the photos of the modified Flite Test Scout (The "Cub Scout") that I designed it for.
 

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quorneng

Master member
Michael763
I am afraid I designed it myself. The object was to find out how light I could make it so it would not destroy the performance of a lightweight foam plane.
As a result it is becomes a 'kit' of printed parts (there are 48 in total) that have to be glued together.
Each cylinder has a front and back half with a separate cylinder head along with 2 push rods.
This 'exploded' view show the detail.
Exploded.jpg

It took longer to design & build the radial than it did the plane!
It was printed in green PLA so it had to be painted.
On a slightly bigger version I used black and silver PLA so no paint was required.
ASh-62.JPG

I could post the stl files but it is both tricky to print and assemble.
 

Michael9865

Elite member
Awesomeness. I would like to give i a try for a biplane that I am working on. I can IM my email if you prefer that method.
 

quorneng

Master member
How about a "Rotary for your radial"?
Some time ago I hade a small RC electric 24" Sopwith Pup. The particular version I modelled used a Gnome Monosoupape 9 cylinder rotary. The Monsoupape (single valve) only has a single push rod so is a bit easier to model.
At that scale a 28 mm diameter out runner bell was the diameter of the mono crankcase so it had the cylinders stuck directly on it so in true scale they went round with prop. Not printed in this case but made very light out of paper and string.:eek:
monofront.JPG
The relatively big and heavy 2812 out runner meant the CofG could be achieved (just!) with a scale length nose and on a 2s it turned a 7x6 which is almost exactly true scale diameter and pitch.
The cylinders didn't fly off!
 

quorneng

Master member
Of course it does depend on how hard you work the motor but there is a small annulus inlet around the prop adapter. The way the motor is mounted and the relatively close fit of the crankcase means the rotation of the magnets in the motor bell forces air outwards at the rear. In doing so it draws air in from the front annulus and through the windings. A relatively small amount of air going through where the heat is actually generated is surprisingly effective.
I tend to find ESC heat dissipation needs just as much attention because its static nature means there is no natural air movement directly over the bits that get warm.