would someone refresh my memory

[irekkin]

it's snowing and raining here so I decided to do some things I'd been putting off. I had a few things that needed soldering. I've soldered miles of copper pipe and I've had good luck with most of my rc projects. just couldn't get things to work right this time. had cold joints and ruined a tip. I'm using a weller soldering iron, rosin core solder, pre tin everything, pretty much what I always do. whats the best solder to use, lead or silver? using a piece of scotch brite to clean the tip with. any suggestions or tips. tia.

 

[jamboree1]

I prefer silver solder made for electronics

 

[Montiey]

Pictures? Soldering electronics is only somewhat similar to piping. Your problem is most likely the iron. It needs to get hot (high temp), but also stay hot (high POWER) when you contact a joint. I have a crappy iron that doesn't actually have a temp sensor. It uses all of its power to get to the right temperature, then when you try to solder some thick wire it goes cold. I just ordered a Hako FX 888D, which should be the last iron I need before it simply breaks or someone invents one that also cooks breakfast.

 

[TooJung2Die]

I use a Radio Shack soldering gun for 90% of electronic soldering such as attaching bullet connectors. I use a fine tip soldering iron for fine circuit board work. Then I have a mini butane torch for bigger work like soldering wire landing gear. I use rosin core lead solder for everything but water pipes.

Sounds like your iron has bit the dust and is no longer up to the task.

Jon

 

[irekkin]

Pictures? Soldering electronics is only somewhat similar to piping. Your problem is most likely the iron. It needs to get hot (high temp), but also stay hot (high POWER) when you contact a joint. I have a crappy iron that doesn't actually have a temp sensor. It uses all of its power to get to the right temperature, then when you try to solder some thick wire it goes cold. I just ordered a Hako FX 888D, which should be the last iron I need before it simply breaks or someone invents one that also cooks breakfast.

makes sense, I did ok with the smaller GA wire but the larger wire was giving me a fit.

Sounds like your iron has bit the dust and is no longer up to the task.

Jon

it sure seems like it

 

[Burly]

Don't use solder or solder flux that is intended for plumbing.
Those products do not do well with electronics.

Get a "good brand" of solder along with a flux pen.
A flux pen looks like a magic marker, but it contains liquid flux.

Here's what I use.
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder
http://www.all-spec.com/products/KW4455.html
This is a couple of bucks more...but the better 63/37 alloy.
http://www.all-spec.com/products/KW4405.html

Kester Flux pen 2331-ZX
http://www.all-spec.com/products/KF233115.html
I've tried lots of different flux pens, and I think this one is the best.
The picture on this page is wrong...the 2331-ZX flux pen has yellow highlighting and a yellow top.
Cleanup is easy with generic Q-Tips dipped in rubbing alcohol(91% isopropyl alcohol).

 

[Burly]

+1 on the Hakko FX-888D soldering station.
http://www.all-spec.com/products/FX-888D.html

Here's a recent thread I made a couple of post's to.
It covers everything in great detail.
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?24456-Best-solder-for-RC-builds

 

[pressalltheknobs]

For soldering electronics, use 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead flux core solder sized slightly smaller than the thing you are trying to solder. The flux core should be Ph neutral like rosin. There are other neutral resin based water and no clean up fluxes that have their advantages.

63/37 solidifies more quickly - it is "eutectic" - and is better for fine work.
60/40 has a higher melting point and a wider range and is less prone to cold joints so is better for general work like wire.

Good sizes to have are 0.062", 0.032", and 0.020" with 0.032 being a good general purpose size.

It is useful to have some Ph neutral flux available and some people like flux pens to more easily pre-flux pads.

Lead free solder is required for a lot of commercial electronic work. For hobby electronics avoid lead free solder as it is harder to use. However, lead is a toxin so wash your hands after handling leaded solder, particularly if you have small children in the house.

 

[pressalltheknobs]

Also "silver" solder is high temperature solder used for plumbing, jewelry making and other metal working. It is not suitable for electronic use. Neither are the acid fluxes that are typically used for plumbing and other applications.

 

[PsyBorg]

60/40 tin-lead rosin core solder is pretty much industry standard for hand worked electronics. It is also recommended you use a temperature controlled Iron. The standard radio shack ones are ok but if you are inexperienced or just not skilled you can and will be damaging the board by lifting lands, separating layers, damaging adjacent traces. The more controlled the heat the better the job with practice. Also never sand or file your tips. that destroys the heat conduction properties instantly. Use a damp sponge to clean the tip between uses . You said you always tin the tip and surfaces which is good. Do a decent tinning before shutting off the iron will make the tips last longer as well.

There are many theories how to solder but fine electronic manufacturing states you tin your tip, hold the solder on the pad or lead you want to solder THEN add heat. This saves a lot of the heat transfer from the iron to the board or component and less chances of damage.

 

[irekkin]

wow,
thanks for all the info and advice