FT Scout XL : Flite Fest 2022 Dawn Patrol Challenge

Mid7night

Jetman
Mentor
I really like Orchard's wheels, but I don't have anything that nice. :p

I used the ones I had leftover from my FT Legacy, so if anyone has those, they're a good fit. :)
 

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
I really like Orchard's wheels, but I don't have anything that nice. :p

I used the ones I had leftover from my FT Legacy, so if anyone has those, they're a good fit. :)

@willsonman used printed ones on the FVM Ö1 Tummelisa (I think). He may be able to link to the hubs and wheels. Pretty sure he printed the hubs in ABS or PETG and wheels in TPU.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
I’m going to need a WW1 machine gun for my Sopwith Pup, so an STL file would be smashing if you do get around to modelling something. I got a tape measure out this evening to look how big 1/6 actually is, and now my thinking time is occupied working out how to make the wings removable. 🤔
So, for my Fokker D.VIII I used these machine guns: Spandau MG08 by ianda217 - Thingiverse
Maybe not appropriate for a Pup but there are other options on THingiverse. Personally I'd consider using meshmixer to configure this one:
Vickers machine gun for WW1 planes by jfpion - Thingiverse

On the subject of wheels, Yes, I used wheels off Thingiverse. Of course, @wilmracer is correct, I used PETG for the hubs and TPU for the tires. After playing with TPU I highly suggest using gyroid infill pattern at no more than 20% infill or you loose all "squish" in the tire. Specifically, I used these wheels for more simplicity: Covered Spoke wheels for WWI RC Planes by kilroy07 - Thingiverse

There are others too. I've never understood some people's fascination with assembly with hardware when simple CA glues would suffice but there is also this option with quite a bit of fun detail.
Vintage wheels 138 mm by airshark - Thingiverse

I really like Orchard's wheels, but I don't have anything that nice. :p

I used the ones I had leftover from my FT Legacy, so if anyone has those, they're a good fit. :)
The WIlliams Brother wheels are nice but I'd wager that you can 3D print stuff as-nice if not better these days. They were purchased waaaaay back in 2013/2014 time frame when printing and making your own stuff was much less of an option so take that for what you will. If you and a few others can hold out for a wee bit I have something in my brain that I would like to flesh (or flush LOL) out and may be worth just a bit of my time and yours.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Power Pack C should be fine.

I try to encourage people to continue to educate themselves about electric power systems as they advance in the hobby. Think more about watts/ pound than anything else. The propeller is your load to get to that power level. If your motor can handle the power you need then it's a matter of selecting the right prop. Selecting the ESC and battery are easy since all you have to do is supply the power that you need.

The unfortunate reality is that vendors, including FT, are able to more easily sell product "as a package" for those less-informed and more likely looking for something that is meant for something else. While that business model works for that focus, it leaves the real builder out in the dark since more detailed specifications are now not published with the rationale that these "confuse the buyer" in their search. I don't put stock in that since you are also seeing published specs like kV, stator dimensions as well as pole configurations. Not publishing the power rating is just crazy to me. Regardless, the "suggested prop" is helpful to get you in the ballpark and go from there.

The reality is that 1000-1200kV is about right for this airplane and 300Watts should be sufficient for it given the wing area and weight. Think 300watts total at 100 watts/pound and you have a stable airplane. I really have no idea of the weight just yet but it's a good ballpark example.

My Tacon motor should handle 500W easily so being able to swing a larger diameter with a lower pitch should not be an issue. Should give gobs of thrust to do stupid stuff, even in crazy windy environments that we've seen at FT events (anyone remember FF TX?)
 

cyclone3350

Master member
I did a FT Scout upscaled to a 30" WS & converted it to a biplane years ago. I did it as an experiment to see if tissue can be glued to FB. If something like that would count, I might do another.
 

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Matthewdupreez

Legendary member
my older ppc the 2215 motor easily spins a 1060 prop.... not willing to put that much load on my cheap "orange" 2217 motor...
 

cyclone3350

Master member
I’m going to need a WW1 machine gun for my Sopwith Pup, so an STL file would be smashing if you do get around to modelling something. I got a tape measure out this evening to look how big 1/6 actually is, and now my thinking time is occupied working out how to make the wings removable. 🤔

I posted some pics of my Pup here https://forum.flitetest.com/index.p...ers-please-feel-free-to-weigh-in.69325/page-2 I scratch built this gun & was very time consuming. A 3d printed one would be the way to go.
 

FlyingTyger

Elite member
I did a FT Scout upscaled to a 30" WS & converted it to a biplane years ago. I did it as an experiment to see if tissue can be glued to FB. If something like that would count, I might do another.

I like the look of the tissue finish. Did you apply the tissue over the paper, or did you remove the paper and apply it directly to the foam?
 

cyclone3350

Master member
That Pup does look VERY nice. Kudos!

Many thanks my friend. I contacted the Museum & they were kind to send some info that I used to replicate it. That was @ least 6 years ago. Still have it & is in perfect flying condition. I don't know if U scrolled down that page, but I posted some of the detail work I did during the build process. Did U know that Pup was actually a Dove converted over?
 

cyclone3350

Master member
I like the look of the tissue finish. Did you apply the tissue over the paper, or did you remove the paper and apply it directly to the foam?

On that one I applied the tissue over the paper. I Minwaxed it & let cure for a couple of days. Then I used 3m77 spray adhesive to apply the tissue & carefully brushed on 2 coats of Polycrylic to moisture protect it & give it that sheen. That is drug store/retail store wrapping tissue. I did this one with out the paper. I used Modge Podge Hard Coat & it worked, but not a very practical method. I need to work on an easier way to do this without the FB paper.
 

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