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3D Printer for RC Hobby

Captain Video

Well-known member
#1
My kids (adults) got together and got a 3D printer for me. I plan to use it extensively for my RC hobby. Plans and cars, Electric and Nitro.
I think there should be spot on the forum for 3D printer posts. If there already that spot then point the way. But I would love to see how everyone is utilizing this tool.
Tips, tricks, files and stories.
Thanks
 

quorneng

Well-known member
#3
Captain
3D printing is an incredible process but, and there is always seems to be a 'but', it does have limitations and requirements.

The actual process of 3D printing has a huge range of variables in the programme (called the 'slicer') that controls exactly what the printer does. Be prepared for quite a bit of 'trial end error' and learning when things don't quite go as expected.

Now if you want to design your own parts then you are into learning some form of CAD which opens up a whole new ball game of things to understand & master.

Nevertheless it is a fascinating process and after some time it is amazing how often you say to yourself "hang on a minute I can print that!" with the benefit it can be made to be exactly the shape & size you want and if you want several it only takes the touch of a button (almost) and you know they will all be identical. :)
 

Captain Video

Well-known member
#4
Good Afternoon:
I have been in 3D design as a hobby for longer that I would care to admit but programs like Fusion 360 are just different sides if the same coin. I am confident I can pick it up if I can determine its idiosyncrasies and differences from Lightwave 3D. Sadly there is no direct export for Lightwave 3D to STL. A slicer came with my 3D printer and seems pretty simple but most of the labeling is in Chinese. Fusion 3D looks like a good tool for my needs, I think.
The part I broke on my LOSI XXCR buggy yesterday is simple and flat with a couple easy cut outs. Most other things like control horns are readily available on the web. We shall see.
 

mrjdstewart

Well-known member
#5
i would not let anyone take my 3D printers. i use them for everything i do in in RC. your creativity is the only limit to what you can do. firewalls, control horns, custom parts, wheels, gear, canopies, whole airplanes, .... the list goes on and on.

once you get the hang of the printer setup and making sure it's level and print settings are proper, the rest is easy. if you already have CAD design experience then it's only gonna get better. all you need is a set of calipers, a ruler, and a little time and you can make anything you need.

good luck and if you have questions feel free to ask.

laters,

me :cool:
 

Jaxx

Posted a thousand or more times
#7
Captain Video,
Which 3D printer did you get. I'm in the market for a 3D printer at the moment, and was just curious.
 

Captain Video

Well-known member
#8
Ender 3 Pro. I think Creality makes it. Since Christmas I have been reasonably succesful printing but there is alot to learn. I think it sells for about $300. Pretty solid and easy to set up.
 

Ryan O.

Well-known member
#9
Is the hottend of your printer teflon lined? If not then PETG is the perfect material for crucial parts of planes (spars, landing gear, etc.) If your printer's hottend is teflon lined don't print above 235 degrees or else it will release toxic fumes which are very bad for you. PLA is good for weaker parts like vortex generators. It also is what 3d lab prints uses for their planes. PLA can be printed with a teflon lined hottend because it mets from 195-225 depending on the brand.
 

LitterBug

Troll Spammer
#10
Is the hottend of your printer teflon lined? If not then PETG is the perfect material for crucial parts of planes (spars, landing gear, etc.) If your printer's hottend is teflon lined don't print above 235 degrees or else it will release toxic fumes which are very bad for you. PLA is good for weaker parts like vortex generators. It also is what 3d lab prints uses for their planes. PLA can be printed with a teflon lined hottend because it mets from 195-225 depending on the brand.
Actually, it would be a bit more accurate to state that the PTFE (teflon) liner will melt above 140C causing a real mess requiring the hotend to be pulled apart, and the PTFE tube replaced. At which point, it would also be worth upgrading the heat break to all metal so it wouldn't happen again. The specs are rather vague on the Creality web site, but I see plenty of references to all metal hotend upgrade kits.

LB
 

Jaxx

Posted a thousand or more times
#11
Ender 3 Pro. I think Creality makes it. Since Christmas I have been reasonably succesful printing but there is alot to learn. I think it sells for about $300. Pretty solid and easy to set up.
Actually, that's the one I've been looking at. Thanks for the quick reply.
 

sprzout

Knower of useless information
Mentor
#12
I've been using a Monoprice Select Mini v1 for about 3 years now. I like it, but it has its limitations - namely, the smaller print area of 120mm x 120mm x 120mm. This is great for printing things like control horns and firewalls, but anything relatively large requires splitting it into multiple pieces and potentially gluing it.

I'm relatively happy with it, though; it's been great for printing parts for my airplanes and quadcopters when I need it, but I'm thinking I need to try some ABS for some stronger firewalls and to heck with the fumes (I'll just put the printer near my window when I start printing so I can have fresh air and not toxic fumes).
 

Wildthing

Well-known member
#13
I've been using a Monoprice Select Mini v1 for about 3 years now. I like it, but it has its limitations - namely, the smaller print area of 120mm x 120mm x 120mm. This is great for printing things like control horns and firewalls, but anything relatively large requires splitting it into multiple pieces and potentially gluing it.

I'm relatively happy with it, though; it's been great for printing parts for my airplanes and quadcopters when I need it, but I'm thinking I need to try some ABS for some stronger firewalls and to heck with the fumes (I'll just put the printer near my window when I start printing so I can have fresh air and not toxic fumes).
Check you max temp settings, mine I believe is 260 and ABS likes 260 to 290.
 

sprzout

Knower of useless information
Mentor
#14
Check you max temp settings, mine I believe is 260 and ABS likes 260 to 290.
Max temp is 250C and others have printed Monoprice brand ABS through it with no problems...I've heard ranges for 230-250 for it for that particular printer. Worst that happens is I try it and it doesn't print how I'd like it. The ABS that I have is a sample anyway, so it's not a ton of it, like maybe 0.1kg?

I've also looked at Matterhackers brand, and they rate theirs for 230C, +/- 10C, which would be workable with my printer. Worst case, I buy a spool, my printer doesn't like it, and I take it down to my dad's house and run it through his Prusa i3 MK2S, which I KNOW will handle it - and that is straight from the mouth of Josef Prusa himself. :)
 

quorneng

Well-known member
#15
Captain
There is quite an art in designing items specifically to suit the material it is made of and the way it will be made. Weight is always an issue with model planes so the detail of a design can have a big impact on its 'fitness for purpose'.
PLA is not the strongest material but with its low melting point is the easiest to print so in any design it is important to recognising its both the material strength and the fundamental limitations of the 3D printing process.
Its not just a case of 'can it be printed' but does its design and the orientation of the part give the best strength to weight ratio.
 

Captain Video

Well-known member
#16
It is clear that I have alot to learn. I am just starting to scratch the surface of this 3D printing hobby and its idiosincracies. I have found Flite Test to be a great resouce and I plan to continue to usei. There is a lot to consider.
 

Wildthing

Well-known member
#19
Working on a design tray/lanyard/camera mount for my Jumper T16 but no where close yet to be posting plans. :)

Actually header should be changed to something like post your 3D parts and or post a request for a 3D part